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  #41  
Old 04-14-2018, 10:16 AM
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I want to keep the car, but I don't have the tools needed to do the rings.
Even now I'm pushing my luck with my knowledge of cars.
I would love to do them, but I don't have a way to do so (without shelling out the big bucks for someone else to do it)

Last edited by Kraiyo; 04-14-2018 at 09:53 PM.
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  #42  
Old 04-14-2018, 10:15 PM
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Where are you physically located?

If you want to keep the car and are willing to expand your horizons,

1). Do the compression and oil control rings. This is a must for oil burning and driveability. If that was the OEM head gasket, they are worn (compression) and frozen and varnished (oil control rings). We don't really know what the non 0 cyl compression was, as you indicated the 2nd burnt valve came from another cyl, which should have had zero compression with that much valve physically missing.

2) replace all 8 exhaust valves, per Andy. For oil burning control, do all 16 valve guide seals, the 8 on the exhaust side at bare minimum. If you can visibly see bad valve giude seals on the intake valves, do them now and be done with it.

3) Full timing set. No point in fixing the rest to run it on worn timing components.

--------

Take everything I just said and put it in a blender on low, because the lower end will always be at increased risk for failure from the previous episodes of likely oil starvation.

I'm pretty sure you can get the one off use tools through AutoZone lend a tool. Many rent-all places rent engine hoists. Having it elevated should make the timing work easier. I'm guessing as I have never tried to time an s car DOHC still in the car.

The car's not going anywhere fast, so take your time deciding. If you sell it, it is unlikely someone will want it w the engine as is. Prob get $200 if the body is nice. Parting out will be a slow painful process that will end with most of the car being crushed when the emails stop. The best hope is someone with a solid engine and wrecked body looking for a car with a solid frame and decent body

Last edited by derf; 04-14-2018 at 10:19 PM.
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  #43  
Old 04-16-2018, 10:50 PM
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An Apartment complex. Nevada.

There is a right way and a wrong way to do things, and what you said is the right way.
If I want this to run, and keep it, I need to try and put the work in.
I did not know I could rent tools from auto part places (At least I don't have to buy them).

As silly as it sounds, because I'm some how getting away with this head job now, I don't think my apartment complex will be all to happy if I have my engine suspended in the air. So I'll have to finish this job, put it back together, move it to my fathers garage (where I'm getting most of my tools from anyways), and than take it all apart again. Which sounds like a pain, but at least most of the bolts have already been broken lose, and I know how and what I need to take off.

That is a good point, I didn't even think of why the other cylinder would have any compression if it also had a broken valve. I want to be worried, but it's kind of too confusing for me to worry about.

So I need to finish this job (New valve seals, new Exhaust valves, new head gasket, new exhaust manifold gasket, new timing stuff), and then get the car to a place I can take the whole damn thing apart, and do the one thing I've dreaded. Which doesn't seem hard in concept (but really, while I'm there, might as well do all the rings (I don't think they sell them one by one anyways))

Is there any way to test if my rings are messed up while I have the head off, that isn't taking them out and looking at them?
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  #44  
Old 04-17-2018, 09:42 AM
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It seems that S series cars have ring problems in general. I have seen many smoking S cars over the years. If you are not in a position to replace your rings fix what you can. See what you have when done and closely monitor oil use. Then you can decide when and if you go back in. You now know how to remove the head and timing chain stuff. Watch some more how to videos and you will figure this out.
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