It's really hard to get a three-dimensional "feel" while looking at a two-dimensional picture (nice pictures, by the way), but from the looks of the pictures, I'd say your brakes and rotors are approaching their limits, and if it were my car, I would be starting to think about replacing them. The rust on the outermost edge, and on the inner edge near the spindle hub is normal because the brake pads don't push on those areas.

My reasopn for saying 'replace'? Look closely at the picture of the rotor (without the wheel). There is a definite ridge (lip) showing where the rotor surface has been worn away by the braking action of the pads. There are no circular gouges showing, so I would venture to guess the pads have not worn down to the rivets (yet), but I can't tell from the pictures just how much pad life remains.

Some people would suggest having the rotors turned rather than replaced. That's a hard call to make. It involves measuring the thickness of the rotor and comparing the measurement against the recommended values. I personally have not had much luck with getting rotors turned, but that's just me - you and your repairman will have to make that decision. Good luck ......

 

Turning rotors to by a qualified person is as simple as frosting a cake, and comes out just as good. The problem is finding someone qualified to do it. If you take them to CheckerAdanvedZone you may just as well just drop them in the trash can.

 

I agree, I have "re-surfaced" many rotors in the past, in my experience, with todays rotors I find it better to buy new. Forget turning, 'cause when you are done the metal is thinner, enough thinner that they tend to warp easier.
Plus , most new vehicles have what I call "disposable" rotors. they are such low cost (especially the non-vented ones like SL's) that it just doesn't make good sense to me to turn them.

 

If you drive the car regularly rust on the rotors is a non-issue and the fact the he blames it on the rust concerns me.

My experiences with turning rotors is that it is only worth it if they are not warped at all. If they are warped replace them instead of turning them. I have access to a machine and can turn them myself for free and it is still not worth it on a warped rotor as heavy braking heat will cause them to re-warp very quickly.

That said, your rotors *look* within range to me, but you can't really tell without mic-ing them. The streak marks and matte finish on your rotors tell me that something other than normal pads have been contacting them, like the metal behind the pad. Normal wear usually leaves a smoother finish than that. You said 50K miles on it, have you replaced the pads before? A second option from another shop would be a good idea.

James.

 

sounds like normal chicago rotors from the salt and road junk
I usually suggest rotors rather then resurfacing just because your starting from new rather than less metal, not always stopping as good
Id also recommend pushing the caliper pistons in and making sure your caliper slides are working properly if not id suggest cleaning the slides up or replacing calipers....

 

I've been working on my Saturns brakes since my first Saturn (1994) At one time I had 3 in my stable that I maintained. Most likely the metal on metal you were hearing is the pads scraping against the rust ring on the outer edge of the rotor (My wifes favorite thing to "mention" when it starts building up.
I know there are going to likely be a lot of senior members shrieking in horror, but I usually dress the rust down with a file, and it clears up the problem.
That being said... I agree with the proper technique of turning the rotor, but looking at the photos that were posted I see a pretty normal wear pattern. As long as the brake pedal is not pulsating to tell me a rotor is warping I don't mind taking care of the rust on its own. But by all means if you are not the handiest with a wrench get them properly turned, if there is anything getting replaced like a rotor, replace the pads as well. I always replace them as a set. I have found the pads will develop hard spots and warp a rotor, new or not. If you are a do it yourselfer make sure the caliper pins are properly lubricated, otherwise the calipers do not want to float and will generate the grinding noises.

 

Well said ........... always replace pads if turning or replacing the rotors.

 

Quote
I know there are going to likely be a lot of senior members shrieking in horror, but I usually dress the rust down with a file, and it clears up the problem.
Un-Quote.
I am about as senior here as you are going to get and I have no problem with this at all. In fact I used to use a DA Sander to knock the rust ridge down.
And grinding rotors, I don't really feel the need for it under normal circumstances unless the rotors are warped which can be felt in the brake peddal beating on your foot or some for of unreasonable or excessive wear.
For those I have had ground I have had no problem with when it comes down to it.
As to cost of brake rotors? Better check that one out first before making the statement.
I don't know the cost of Saturn rotors. Never replaced one or had them ground.
My current Van a Town and Country, I am using ceramic pads. The stop better and last better than twice as long than the OEM pads and do not leave brake dust on the front wheels.
They do wear rotors a lot more than previous pads.
The front rotors are some where around $70.00 a piece, the rear ones are about the cost of grinding them. Rear wear makes the non-repairable about the time the pads wear out. Fronts, I get one regrind off of them.
As stated wear is greater using ceramic pads. Otherwise I probably would not replace the rotors on it either.
I do not believe in automatically re-surfacing the rotors when replacing brake pads. But then again, I do 98% of my own work and can dictate what I want replaced and why!

 

"always replace pads if turning or replacing the rotors."


I agree no need to always turn or replace rotors when changing the pads.