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P2176 trouble

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  #11  
Old 04-18-2020, 06:28 PM
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OK, so I finally got around replacing the ECU and also I replaced the ignition switch. After replacing ignition switch, the car still started. But after placing the ECU, it just cranks but doesn't start. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and I have about 52 psi of fuel, which should be more than adequate to make the car start, but it just won’t. It’s fired on maybe one cylinder after repeated attempts, but it should be starting. I want to double check all the wiring out of the fuse box that I unhooked today when I look at it tomorrow. But I’m curious, does the ECU need a VIN# written to it? I guess I will also try to reinstall the old ECU and see if it fires up.
 
  #12  
Old 04-18-2020, 11:17 PM
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Put the ignition original one back in. Put the ECM original back in.

Changing two things at once makes it almost impossible to figure out what is happening and why
 
  #13  
Old 04-19-2020, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by derf
Put the ignition original one back in. Put the ECM original back in.

Changing two things at once makes it almost impossible to figure out what is happening and why
I put the ignition in first and started the car a few times to make sure it functioned. Then I replaced the ecu. I’m going to swap the ecu again, but the frustrating part is that with the “new” ecu it learned the idle position and it doesn’t drop below 5%. Whereas the old ecu would drop to 1.5% to 7%. But I don’t know if the injectors are pulsing or not, maybe a shot of starting fluid? 🤔
 
  #14  
Old 04-19-2020, 12:27 PM
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OK, well I started off the day by replacing ECU with the original one and the car fired right back up. I am still at a loss of why it stalled out.

I did let it idle long enough that it actually stopped idling and stalled as well. Fuel pressure was still 50 psi when it stalled out, so I was at a complete loss.

well the only thing I could think is that I have a vacuum leak, you can hear the engine throttle suck pretty hard when you tap the throttle. I felt around under the throttlebody and noticed when I pulled on the bottom vacuum line that’s behind the two coolant hoses, I heard the sucking louder. I pulled it off and found that it had a rip in it. So I repaired it temporarily and, so far no more stalling!!!

Now I need to fight out the ABS with the new scanner I bought. It comes back as C0000 but for some reason, I can’t monitor the individual wheel speed sensor output. It’s almost like the scanner won’t connect to the ABS module.

thank you though for all the help and ideas, fingers crossed that it keeps running and no more stalling.
 

Last edited by Smokey0210; 04-19-2020 at 05:01 PM.
  #15  
Old 04-19-2020, 07:06 PM
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C0000 Possible Symptoms
Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Warning Light ON Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)

C0000
Possible Causes
Faulty Power Steering Control Module (PSCM) Power Steering Control Module (PSCM) harness is open or shorted
Power Steering Control Module (PSCM) circuit poor electrical connection x

If no other codes are present, then there is a problem with either the Power Steering Control Module (PSCM) or the wire from the PCM to the PSCM.

 
  #16  
Old 04-19-2020, 07:09 PM
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Didn't realize your idle was that erratic....makes perfect sense that it couldn't relearn idle with s vac leak.

 

Last edited by derf; 04-22-2020 at 05:55 AM.
  #17  
Old 04-21-2020, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by derf
Didn't realize your idle was that erratic....makes perfect sense that it couldn't relearn idle with s vac leak.
idle was actually dead on. I think the tear was only happening as the engine shifted. But then the car stalled while idling again. Still has fuel pressure and didn’t set a code. It ran for about a half an hour with no issues before that.

so why would it just shut off? No spitting, no sputtering, just running then not.

 

Last edited by derf; 04-22-2020 at 05:56 AM.
  #18  
Old 04-21-2020, 08:49 AM
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Does it quit while driving or only idling? The vacuum leak was probably the idle learn problem. It may have a crank position sensor with a heat open failure.
 
  #19  
Old 04-21-2020, 10:06 AM
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It did not stall out while driving at all, just idling after repairing the hose. I think you’re probably right, more than likely the idle learn was affected by the broken vacuum line, that was my thought as well for the crank sensor. I know that there is a relearn process for replacing a crank sensor, so I was worried that if I replace it, I have to take it to the dealer.
 
  #20  
Old 04-21-2020, 06:28 PM
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Andy,

This car has also been stalling while driving before the vac leak was discovered, with sputtering as well. No way to tell how much behavior was due to the vac leak. Additionally I do not remember any statements of it stalling and not being able to fire backup immediately. Hence my lack of suggestion of the CKP.
I'm very interested to see if this is the solution.
Your diagnostic skills are formidable which is why I never doubt them.

 


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