So I was getting the coils off and had to cut the lower bolts off because they were too far gone to get out. In the process, I was prying the coils off the control module and slipped and put a dent in middle of it. Does anyone know what the circuitry inside looks like? Did I hit something internally and damage it or can I just put it back on and try to start it up? Any help would be great!!

 

There is a YouTube video that shows the internals of the ignition control module at the end of a troubleshooting/repair procedure. The damage you show may have caused some contact/damage to the circuit board inside. See the link at 29:40 into the video.

 

Thank you for the video. I took a chance and put it back together- everything works fine, so far! It may still have issues but haven't seen them yet. Will watch video and decide if I should get a new one anyways but right now it's running fine.

 

Ive always kept a spare on me. In the glove box or trunk or something
they're prone to failure

 

Well I lucked out with it working for now. But the cheapest I have found this part is for $67 on Rock Auto, much more at the big retailers

 

Run the the junk yard and grab you 2 or 3 of em for like $20. Or whatever your yards rate is

 

Why not just blaster the bolts?
they thread into the transmission housing?

And why would you need to pry the coils off? They release quite easily.

That's one less part you can part out.

 

The bolts are 8mm but for whatever reason socket would not thread. These are the underside shorter bolts of each coil. I don't know if they were stripped out before or what but after trying to blaster, clean with wire brush and sandpaper I figured out they were not coming off easy and it was easiest to chop the heads off. I did notice that just below the bolt heads the bolt shaft is slightly flared to fit the hole in coil module tight. So trying to break loose the cut off bolt from the body of coil I was tapping with rubber mallet and also prying edges.

 

I think you mean edges of the ICM and the screwdriver slipped under the coils and scraped the ICM.

Depending on how soft the bolts are, and how much room you have to work, you can also try putting an angled dimple in the head of the bolt with a punch, then striking the punch from that angle with the punch in the dimple at the same angle such that it is trying to spin the bolt counterclockwise. This is tough to do in confined spaces unless you have a very long punch set and can get the other end out where you can smack it at the right angle. You just have to have very good control of the punch as you don't want it to slip out of the dimple and be a flying pointed projectile towards other parts of the engine.

I've also had success with universal stud pullers. They are also sometimes called universal sockets. They have a bunch of pins packed very close to each other with springs behind them. Some are bi-directional, but in general, when you turn them, the edges of the pins lock onto the bolt head and give you some grip. Only ever used one by hand with a socket wrench. The cheap ones on Amazon are good enough for two or three very stuck fasteners so I don't buy an expensive one. One of the benefits is that you can use them off center and the pins still grip. Six point sockets are a must.
You can also try a good old-fashioned bolt extractor set for rounded off bolts. I have a cheap Craftsman set that works as well as I need it to.

Just sharing some things that have worked for me over the short time I have been working on my own cars. I'm sure Andy and Rube have much better suggestions for removal of such things as they are lifers, Andy professionally.

An ICM for a 95 SC2 is $200 + new, so I don't take anything sharp near mine.

6-point sockets save you from hosing yourself in so many situations it's not funny. It's not until you switch from 12 to a decent set of six points that everything becomes much easier because you are catching the sides of the bolt, not the corners, which is how they get rounded off. Don't know if you are 6 or 12, sounds like the guy before you rounded it off with a 12-point socket so usually that happens when taking it out so I don't know how they could be that wrecked and tight enough to hold the module in but whatever.

What did you use for replacement bolts?

 

I simply left the studs from old bolts in and put threadlocker around the shafts and put the top bolts on with more locker. Nice and tight. Rechecked after driving awhile and everything is still good.