Hey Unc, I THINK this video will help you out, even though it's on a four door.

 

Thanks, Ruby. I found that video. The only problem with things like that is that they are incomplete. It took two tries to figure out that the outside mirror had to come off and how it was done. When you are cold and tired, things are just not that obvious. And it is incredible how poorly the various plastic bits and pieces have held up over time. The snaps that hold the ribber door seal in place are broken along the bottom of the door and I will have to figure out how to deal with that. In any case the binding seemed to be 20 years of accumulated dirt in the rubber coated window tracts causing them to either swell or something the like binding the movement of the glass. By the time I spent in the driveway trying to get everything apart with out breaking bits and pieces of plastic I had to figure out how to get the window up and held in place so I could drive the car. And run the heat too I'll have to get back to it later. But it appears that the motor burned out trying to force the window past the binding.
I don't think there is a fuse for one side only. But in either case it looks like a fuse (doubt it) the switch for the drives side? (Dunno) or the motor is burnt out. I wonder if after 20 years that motor is still available? The next chance I get to work on it I'll find out I guess.

 

Yeah, I'll be at the salvage yard in the morning. The only reason I was shying away from it is that when the vehicle shuts down it's usually within the same amount of time from when I start off. In fact, it shut down at the exact same spot three times. Twice is a coincidence but three times? I was originally thinking maybe it's the after-market remote starter that someone installed, perhaps that's what that extra wire is that's in that upper right socket. There's only one way to figure it out, just wish this had happened during the summer since I have to work on this in a parking lot... such is life. Thanks again for all your help!!

 

Towhomit may concern.
With my Lady in the hospital instead of I my days are pretty much screwed up but as the road that goes towards the hospital also goes by the Chevrolet dealership that was also the last place I bought Saturn parts I stopped in to the parts department today to see if the Window lift motor was available. As a special order it is. For about $250.00 and if that is what I have to pay to get one, it is worth it. So in the morning if the weather is good I will go out and determine what is actually wrong with the car and if it is the motor I will order one and the gasket for the sun roof and a bell housing dust shield for the 700R4 transmission I am using in my Hornet.
At this point in time I have spent so much for medical purposes, a little more is not even going to be noticed.

 

Hey Unc, if you need a window lift motor, I MAY be going to Pull A Part in Nashville on Thursday to get a front seat for a buddy. I'd be happy to grab a motor for you and save you at the very minimum a couple of hundred bucks. Let me know.

 

Ruby,
If you can find and get a window Lift mechanism with a motor for a coupe (probably a sedan front door one is the same I will pay you for it and your troubles. Looking at the one in the car the motor actually started running for reasons of magic I think, and I made sure the window tracks were clean and actually not the problem but certainly it some cases it worked better but what happen is the lift mechanism seemed to bind in two places as the window went up. The motor is Pop Riveted on to the inner door and bolted to the lift mechanism. The lift mechanism unbolts from the door panel with the bolts for it accessible from the out side with the door skin off. But if the inner door panel is off the heads of the bolts are accessible so if they need to be held with a wrench you can do it.
This is the second time I have had to replace the lift mechanism in this door and as my memory serves, a few people I know that have had one of these cars, have also had window lift problems. Usually purchases as a late model used car when they were still new enough to represent late model used. Dang, I have had this one a lot of years!
It is actually Valerie's, and she bought it in 1996, and that is about the time Valerie and I started being a couple. Of what I am not sure! But she has been unable to drive for quite a few years and this car represents a connection in her life when she was and independent and self sufficient woman and until the need for that connection no longer exists, I'll keep the thing and in good shape. Or as good as I can anyway. It has a transmission leak now I have to keep an eye on and the engine runs as if it was new! I had it reupholstered in stages and unfortunately it was a late 94 and the last of the material ordered for it was the wrong shade, also next to impossible to find, we found it in NYC and bought it sight unseen and with the seats and all at the shop out of the car. When assembled there was a shade difference and it is not immediately obvious, but it is there. The Exterior is painted a color not available in 94, it is a 95 color, I'd bet the interior color is also a 95 but? It is fresh, and clean and not tore up from the sun.
There are a few things wrong now here and there, but for the most part they are either fixable or ones I can live with. Also for the most part if I wanted to leave at breakfast for Tennessee, I'd take a couple of quarts of transmission fluid and a full tank of gas and go. It runs that good.
Later and thanks.
I am going to check with the Chevy dealer as to what exactly it is I am buying, bit even if I have to buy two units if you find one, I'll have the car for a while and spare parts are always something to stash.

 

Weather permitting, I'm going tomorrow and I'll see what I can find. I'll let you know in the morning if I'm making the trip or not. Got to leave for Huntsville in a couple of hours as my wife is having a six week check up today for the most recent back surgery she had.

 

Unc

You might try rockauto.com I was just there and they show the motor for your window for about $45.00 I believe.

 

He doesn't need just the motor, the way I read his post. He needs the entire window lift mechanism. I pulled one yesterday, but had to take the window with it. I can't figure out how they separate. Must take a special tool to fit the round pieces in the window. I tried a pair of needle nose pliers, but couldn't budge them and didn't try to force it for fear of breaking the glass.

 

I did not even think to check something like rock auto. Some times I am amazed at the parts and auto supply place actually carries, but yes, the motor as it turns out seems to be o.k, it is the lift mechanism itself that seems to be the problem. It is binding in two locations and when that happens the motor stalls out and comes to a stop. What ever that bind is caused by is causing the problem.
That little gizmo at the bottom is how the window is removed. It unscrews. I guess it must be a special tool but I have used a pair of round jawed rather than the long needle nosed jaws, pliers. I think a tool used to remove clip rings works also.
I forget what the years of rust must do to things as I have lived where rust is not an issue for the last almost 40 years.
Give me a day to catch my breath, I brought my lady home from the hospital yesterday and today will be occupied with getting caught up with things. She needs some help recovering but I think she is o.k. I'll be in touch Ruby. Thanks
And just thinking, what is it that causes the motor to quit running when the window hits a limit or in this case jams. There is no switch that says stop running so is it some thermo circuit breaker built into the motor that keeps things from burning out yet when the motor senses end of travel overheats and shuts off the motor with out damaging something. Cause this binding stops the motor from trying to drive and if you diddle with it trying to see what is happening, with in one or two didlles, the motor quits completely and it becomes a period of time before it tries to work.