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Frigging Brake Drum

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  #11  
Old 11-21-2013, 03:54 PM
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I forgot my camera, so I can't show any pictures of the rear brakes. Both wheel cylinders were leaking and these were some of the nastiest shoes I've ever encountered in my life, and I've replace a lot of brakes over the past 40+ years of owning and fooling with cars. My hands were completely black by the time I got done with them. I'll take some pictures in a few minutes of the front rotors and pads and you can draw your own conclusions. I asked Brent if he was opening the drivers door and putting his left leg out while his wife opened the passenger side door and put her right leg out to stop the car! They're very happy with the way the car stops now and no leaks and squeaks either. I'm tired and worn out because nothing was easy about this brake job. I had to use a propane torch and ball peen hammer on both rear drums in order to get them off. This is a 96 model SL and I'm pretty sure that the shoes were original to the car, but who knows. I'll take some pictures of the "rotors" and pads later and probably post them tomorrow. I'm having a few cold ones right now and won't be getting back out until tomorrow. I'm getting too old for this crap. And in case you're wondering, I did replace all of the brake hardware too. No point in doing a half assed job.
 
  #12  
Old 11-21-2013, 06:21 PM
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Okay, so I didn't have enough beer to get a buzz on, so here are some pictures. The first two are from the drivers side. As you can see, the rotor is separated from the hub! The second pic is a little blurry, but I was trying to show where there is a chip broken out of the outer edge. It's the dark, wet looking spot. Pics 3 and 4 are of the passenger side rotor. You can see the outer pad was stuck and wore the rotor down very thin. Pads show that there was metal on metal. Two new rotors, calipers and pads and hardware were installed. The rear brakes were, as I stated already, both saturated with brake fluid from leaking wheel cylinders. All new brake hardware and shoes and he's back on the road and very happy. I gave him a good chewing out about listening to his brakes and if it happens again, I won't be available to help, even though he's a friend. Man's got to learn to help himself from time time. Agreed?
 
  #13  
Old 11-21-2013, 07:38 PM
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Man, Charlie-That's as bad as I've seen,too! Hope your buddy thanked you for saving his life...
 
  #14  
Old 11-21-2013, 10:11 PM
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Both he and his wife were very grateful, Neil. I told them not to thank me, but to give thanks to God tonight when they say their prayers. He's the one that's kept them safe. I just was chosen to help, I guess! Right place, right time or divine intervention?
 
  #15  
Old 11-27-2013, 03:03 PM
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Good man Rube..........
 
  #16  
Old 11-27-2013, 07:03 PM
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Ayup -- From the looks of those pictures, that feller dodged a bullet - big time
 
  #17  
Old 11-27-2013, 11:33 PM
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I have never seen such brake carnage. I'm not even sure what you'd have to do to a rotor to separate it like that.

You are a kind soul, Rube
 
  #18  
Old 11-28-2013, 07:29 AM
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It separated itself, Derf. Rust and heat along with the pressure of the caliper all were contributing factors, I'm sure.
 
  #19  
Old 08-10-2015, 01:11 PM
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I was attempting to work on my 2002 SL1 today, and ran into the issue of getting the drums off.Mallets, PB blaster, and a MAP gas torch all fell short, so I had to admit defeat and send it to the brake shop. Hoping they have better luck, before they resort to TNT.
 
  #20  
Old 09-06-2015, 09:48 AM
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I worked at a car auction and what we would do is grab a 22oz. hammer and hit between the studs, careful not to ding the studs. With a large flat head screwdriver, walk the drum off. Pry the top the the bottom, top bottom, etc... until it comes off. FYI s10 blazer/ pickups are the same way.
 


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