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dashlights fluctuate, speedo oscillates

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Old 10-12-2007, 10:56 PM
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In my 99 SL1 automatic, has 154,00 miles,all dash lights (including radio lights) have started to fluctuate - brighter, dimmer, in more or less random fashion. The **** for dimming the dash lights still works smooth, that's probably not it.The current to the lights is flaky somewhere else, but where?... Any suggestions (fuse, fuse box connections (if any), connector, under dash) ?


Then, when I shut the engine off, the speedometer needle oscillates for about 5 seconds around the 0 miles speed,accompanied by a soft 'purrrr' sound, before it suddenly stops and rests at zero. It sometimes does it before I start the engine, after turning the contact on.


Lastly, this week, instead of starting, the car just made a clicking sound (starter motor relay, likely). It started fine after turning the key to 'off' and then to 'start' again. I don't think it's the battery because it has plenty of juice, thestarter motor does not have any trouble cranking the engine. This happened 3 or 4 times thereafter. Probably is a wiring issue again, somehere beteen the key and the starter motor relay... Anysuggestions, is it a known problem ?


Thank you all for your kind attention.
 
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Old 10-13-2007, 06:52 AM
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From all sysmptoms taken together:


1) Check battery terminals and cables. Corrosion here may be an issue. If this is an AC/Delco battery that came with the car, the seal at the + terminal has probably allowed acid to eat through the post contact where it comes through the battery - don't be surprised if it falls off when you try to remove the + cable for inspection.


Also check + lead commection at starter.


2) Check battery V (with car off and while running) -- your battery may not be holding a charge. Should be about 14V running and a bit above 12 when not running. Search forum for battery voltage info posted by Ducky.


3) Alternator output may be fluctuating -- this can be caused by a dying alternator which is no longer putting out enough current to charge the battery sufficiently. Also check serpentine belt for wear/slippage, since this will cause the same net effect (not turning the alternator consistently)


Pls let us know what you find.


Derf
 
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Old 10-13-2007, 06:45 PM
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Thank you derf, I will check the battery terminals and voltage tomorrow at daylight, and alternator voltage too - I assume, when either the alternator or the serpentine belt is going bad, it will fluctuate with constant motor rpm. I also assume I can check the alternator voltage just by taking the + terminal off the battery and measure the voltage there, with the engine running.


The battery is not the original one, the original one already died years ago around 60,000 miles, releasing a puddle of acid onto the parts underneath it and our garage floor. Then, when I was getting readyto have it fixed by Saturn under the extended warranty, I read the fine print on the extended warranty, and it said "electrical parts not covered" [img]smileys/smiley7.gif[/img]- no more extended warrantiesfor me... This batterywe bought ourselves,brandunknown, from Costco, will report tomorrow. Thanks again.
 
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Old 10-14-2007, 02:51 PM
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I checked the "Kirkland" (Costco's home brand, 100 months limited warranty, 3 yr. full warranty) battery voltage at the cable bolts before doing anything, was 12.8 V, with the engine runningaround 12.9-13 V, and fluctuating.


Then, took thecontacts off, and the + was a little loose and a little crusty-sulphury but not from the terminal, some acid had come out of the top apparently. The batteryterminals were good so I cleaned the contacts and re-attached the +cablewiththe connector at a slightly different angle to have the four little pins (protrusions on the otherwise flat contact of the red cables) each dig a fresh 'hole' in the battery terminal. Batterystill at 12.8V.


Now, when running, the battery voltage is 14.7 constant and the car started great four times in a row ! I drove it backinto the garage and closed the garage door with the engine running (hope the neighbors weren't looking [img]smileys/smiley4.gif[/img]) to make it dark and test the 'fluctuating dash lights' with the low beams 'on', and they are rock steady now !


Sooo - your advice derf definitely solved the 'start' and 'lights fluctuating' issues - it was the loose& crusty +cable contact at the battery terminal ! Thank you, thank you, thank you !


The odometer needle however is still shaky when switching the contact 'on' and after switching the engine 'off', for about 3-4 seconds. Maybe a loose ground somewhere.Edited by: 99_SL1_qt
 
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