04 vue 2.2 codes 2101 & 1682
#1
07-08-2023, 02:15 PM
04 vue 2.2 codes 2101 & 1682
Hello,
I have a 2004 Vue with the 2.2 engine and standard trans. about 160k miles. She ran perfectly til one morning it idled iradically and has very little power. I assume its in limp mode or something like that. I pluged in my Autel code computor and mostly got P1682 Ingition switch circuit 2 and P2101 control throttle actuator position. As I was tinkering and replacing parts I also got a P1516 Throttle actuator control (TAC) modual throttle actuator position performance code.
I tried clearing codes and they instantly come back. I noodled around on the web and found lots of stuff on each code but none on them happening at the same time. first I checked some under hood fuses and swapped some relays around to try to get lucky. My fuse box cover is missing so I thought maybe corrosion. I took the fuse panel out and removed wiring harness connections from rear and saw nothing unusual. greased everything up with di-electric grease and put back together. I absolutely despise the technique of throwing parts blindly at an issue without fully understanding whats wrong, but I'm overwhelmed with work in this heat , and the parts were cheap enough, so I got an aftermarket new throttle body for $100 and put it on. battery was disconnected. I attempted thr re-learn procedure of run 3 min, off 1 min, run 3 , off 1, etc. then I drove it a bit and still limping. weak power. wont go over 3k rpm. cleared codes many times but instantly come back. Replaced coil pack and plugs with the more expensive iredium and a cheap aftermarket coil pack with new boots. Old plugs and boots looked as expected. no signs of arcing or anything unusual. I noticed the ground wire to the computor mounted on the manifiold in the front looked corroded so I stripped back the wire, added a new direct to battery ground wire, crimped on a new ring terminal and polished the mounting spot and screw for a good connection. cleared codes after every step but no success. I pulled the computor connectors off. Some of the gold pins had a slight orangeish, sort of rust color on em. didnt look like actual rust but a discoloration of the metal itself. soaked em in contact cleaner and gently rubbed with que tip and soft wire brush. couldnt get rid of color but looked like good conductors. more di-electric grease, clear codes and no luck. I looked at the live readings of my throrttle peday with my Autel and they changed as I stepped on throttle. dont knw what they should read but its not dead or disconnected.
I'm out of ideas. I ordered a used computor from ebay for $50 and it'll bre here monday, but who knows ? So what should I be looking for ? It seems odd that ignition and TAC went bad at exact same time unless its some kind of cascade effect. so I'm thingkin something else failed, or wiring issue, or what ? a quick visual inspection didnt show any rodent or other damage to wiring.
I got my new autell code computor that I'm learning to use, a good meter, and some experience under hoods so I'm not afraid to take readings and follow a diagnostic tree if anyones got one. or does anyone got a silver bullet for me ?? I'm ok driving my F150 for now but she's a gas hog and i need my commutor car back befor I go broke.
Thanks.
Andrew
I have a 2004 Vue with the 2.2 engine and standard trans. about 160k miles. She ran perfectly til one morning it idled iradically and has very little power. I assume its in limp mode or something like that. I pluged in my Autel code computor and mostly got P1682 Ingition switch circuit 2 and P2101 control throttle actuator position. As I was tinkering and replacing parts I also got a P1516 Throttle actuator control (TAC) modual throttle actuator position performance code.
I tried clearing codes and they instantly come back. I noodled around on the web and found lots of stuff on each code but none on them happening at the same time. first I checked some under hood fuses and swapped some relays around to try to get lucky. My fuse box cover is missing so I thought maybe corrosion. I took the fuse panel out and removed wiring harness connections from rear and saw nothing unusual. greased everything up with di-electric grease and put back together. I absolutely despise the technique of throwing parts blindly at an issue without fully understanding whats wrong, but I'm overwhelmed with work in this heat , and the parts were cheap enough, so I got an aftermarket new throttle body for $100 and put it on. battery was disconnected. I attempted thr re-learn procedure of run 3 min, off 1 min, run 3 , off 1, etc. then I drove it a bit and still limping. weak power. wont go over 3k rpm. cleared codes many times but instantly come back. Replaced coil pack and plugs with the more expensive iredium and a cheap aftermarket coil pack with new boots. Old plugs and boots looked as expected. no signs of arcing or anything unusual. I noticed the ground wire to the computor mounted on the manifiold in the front looked corroded so I stripped back the wire, added a new direct to battery ground wire, crimped on a new ring terminal and polished the mounting spot and screw for a good connection. cleared codes after every step but no success. I pulled the computor connectors off. Some of the gold pins had a slight orangeish, sort of rust color on em. didnt look like actual rust but a discoloration of the metal itself. soaked em in contact cleaner and gently rubbed with que tip and soft wire brush. couldnt get rid of color but looked like good conductors. more di-electric grease, clear codes and no luck. I looked at the live readings of my throrttle peday with my Autel and they changed as I stepped on throttle. dont knw what they should read but its not dead or disconnected.
I'm out of ideas. I ordered a used computor from ebay for $50 and it'll bre here monday, but who knows ? So what should I be looking for ? It seems odd that ignition and TAC went bad at exact same time unless its some kind of cascade effect. so I'm thingkin something else failed, or wiring issue, or what ? a quick visual inspection didnt show any rodent or other damage to wiring.
I got my new autell code computor that I'm learning to use, a good meter, and some experience under hoods so I'm not afraid to take readings and follow a diagnostic tree if anyones got one. or does anyone got a silver bullet for me ?? I'm ok driving my F150 for now but she's a gas hog and i need my commutor car back befor I go broke.
Thanks.
Andrew
#2
07-08-2023, 07:19 PM
Did you look at the electric part of the ignition switch. Sounds like other GM ignition switches that can fail and only loose some functions. Chevy pickups can have the ignition switch fail and only the automatic transmission is affected. I do not have any books on VUEs only L series cars.
#3
07-09-2023, 03:00 AM
I did a little bit of research but not much.
The p2101 seems to indicate the need for the equivalent of a throttle body cleaning but it is referred to as throttle actuator service. See link below.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/th...tuator-service
For the p1682, people accused various GM cars of having defective ignition switches, with replacement eradicating the issue of intermittent starting.
Several folks also claimed it was due to a fuse box issue wherein one of the ignition relays had a very marginal ground under the fuse box. As the wiring heated up, the circuit would go open, stalling the car on the spot. Let it cool down, the ground is restored, and the vehicle starts. Much like a failing CKP.
Cannot vouch for any of the above including the cleaning procedure. Just passing on what I found
The p2101 seems to indicate the need for the equivalent of a throttle body cleaning but it is referred to as throttle actuator service. See link below.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/th...tuator-service
For the p1682, people accused various GM cars of having defective ignition switches, with replacement eradicating the issue of intermittent starting.
Several folks also claimed it was due to a fuse box issue wherein one of the ignition relays had a very marginal ground under the fuse box. As the wiring heated up, the circuit would go open, stalling the car on the spot. Let it cool down, the ground is restored, and the vehicle starts. Much like a failing CKP.
Cannot vouch for any of the above including the cleaning procedure. Just passing on what I found
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