No power but battery is charged
#1
05-26-2016, 05:46 PM
No power but battery is charged
My wife came home last night and said her car was running "funny". When I asked her to describe it she said it just seemed to want to die on her. I went out this morning to start it so I could run codes and there is no power to the ignition or the OBD port. The battery is showing 12 volts and all fuses test fine for continuity. Any thoughts?
#2
05-27-2016, 05:23 AM
Pls state year and model.
Is there power to anything at all? If so, please state.
0) Can the vehicle be jump started? If so, what is the v reading across the battery while running with the jumper cables removed? Use good thick jumper cables and be sure your connections are clean.
1) Check battery terminals and cable ends for tightness and corrosion.
2) Check connection of neg battery lead to frame for tightness and corrosion
3) Check the alternator output connection to the battery for tightness and corrosion.
4) Check the battery connection to the starter at the starter.
5) What is the voltage across the battery when you are trying to crank the engine (holding key in START position?
What is the state of the security light when you
a) come out in the morning?
b) unlock the car w the fob?
c) turn and hold the key to START
=======
If the car can be jump started, it is usually not a connection issue or security system issue. It is a charging system issue.
Your battery may read 12V at rest, but that does not necessarily mean it is fully charged and capable of providing a sufficiently large peak current to crank the engine over. If the V across the battery nosedives while trying to crank, then your battery is either not fully charged (due to poor connection or alternator issues) or the battery is unable to store a full charge (battery defective)
If the car cannot be jump started, then the security system may be part of the issue.
Please answer the above questions and we will try to help you out.
Is there power to anything at all? If so, please state.
0) Can the vehicle be jump started? If so, what is the v reading across the battery while running with the jumper cables removed? Use good thick jumper cables and be sure your connections are clean.
1) Check battery terminals and cable ends for tightness and corrosion.
2) Check connection of neg battery lead to frame for tightness and corrosion
3) Check the alternator output connection to the battery for tightness and corrosion.
4) Check the battery connection to the starter at the starter.
5) What is the voltage across the battery when you are trying to crank the engine (holding key in START position?
What is the state of the security light when you
a) come out in the morning?
b) unlock the car w the fob?
c) turn and hold the key to START
=======
If the car can be jump started, it is usually not a connection issue or security system issue. It is a charging system issue.
Your battery may read 12V at rest, but that does not necessarily mean it is fully charged and capable of providing a sufficiently large peak current to crank the engine over. If the V across the battery nosedives while trying to crank, then your battery is either not fully charged (due to poor connection or alternator issues) or the battery is unable to store a full charge (battery defective)
If the car cannot be jump started, then the security system may be part of the issue.
Please answer the above questions and we will try to help you out.
#3
05-27-2016, 01:07 PM
This is a 2002 Saturn L300
Pls state year and model. - 2002 L300
Is there power to anything at all? If so, please state. - There is no power to anything.
0) Can the vehicle be jump started? If so, what is the v reading across the battery while running with the jumper cables removed? Use good thick jumper cables and be sure your connections are clean. Tried that first with no luck. Power doesn't get to the ignition switch.
1) Check battery terminals and cable ends for tightness and corrosion. Battery terminals and cables were cleaned and reconnected.
2) Check connection of neg battery lead to frame for tightness and corrosion- disconnected, cleaned, and reinstalled
3) Check the alternator output connection to the battery for tightness and corrosion. Disconnected, cleaned, and installed.
4) Check the battery connection to the starter at the starter. Disconnected, cleaned, and reinstalled.
5) What is the voltage across the battery when you are trying to crank the engine (holding key in START position? 12.29 volts at the battery terminals but will not crank. There is no power at the ignition switch.
What is the state of the security light when you
a) come out in the morning?
b) unlock the car w the fob?
c) turn and hold the key to START
=======
There are no lights at all, not even cab lights.
If the car can be jump started, it is usually not a connection issue or security system issue. It is a charging system issue.
Your battery may read 12V at rest, but that does not necessarily mean it is fully charged and capable of providing a sufficiently large peak current to crank the engine over. If the V across the battery nosedives while trying to crank, then your battery is either not fully charged (due to poor connection or alternator issues) or the battery is unable to store a full charge (battery defective). - Took the battery out and had it load tested. It checks out ok.
If the car cannot be jump started, then the security system may be part of the issue.
Please answer the above questions and we will try to help you out.
Is there power to anything at all? If so, please state. - There is no power to anything.
0) Can the vehicle be jump started? If so, what is the v reading across the battery while running with the jumper cables removed? Use good thick jumper cables and be sure your connections are clean. Tried that first with no luck. Power doesn't get to the ignition switch.
1) Check battery terminals and cable ends for tightness and corrosion. Battery terminals and cables were cleaned and reconnected.
2) Check connection of neg battery lead to frame for tightness and corrosion- disconnected, cleaned, and reinstalled
3) Check the alternator output connection to the battery for tightness and corrosion. Disconnected, cleaned, and installed.
4) Check the battery connection to the starter at the starter. Disconnected, cleaned, and reinstalled.
5) What is the voltage across the battery when you are trying to crank the engine (holding key in START position? 12.29 volts at the battery terminals but will not crank. There is no power at the ignition switch.
What is the state of the security light when you
a) come out in the morning?
b) unlock the car w the fob?
c) turn and hold the key to START
=======
There are no lights at all, not even cab lights.
If the car can be jump started, it is usually not a connection issue or security system issue. It is a charging system issue.
Your battery may read 12V at rest, but that does not necessarily mean it is fully charged and capable of providing a sufficiently large peak current to crank the engine over. If the V across the battery nosedives while trying to crank, then your battery is either not fully charged (due to poor connection or alternator issues) or the battery is unable to store a full charge (battery defective). - Took the battery out and had it load tested. It checks out ok.
If the car cannot be jump started, then the security system may be part of the issue.
Please answer the above questions and we will try to help you out.
#4
05-27-2016, 09:53 PM
If you have no juice to anything whatsoever, either:
a) Your battery is toast.
Pull it and take it to autozone or similar. They will test it for free.
It may be that your battery has developed such a high internal resistance that, per V=IR (Ohm's law) 12 V (small V) = (tiny I) x (Huge R) so the current is so small that it isn't enough to do anything.
b) the issue is the connection between the battery and the main Underhood Junction box (UHJB) with the fuses and relays. No juice to that= no juice to anything, including the Instrument Panel Junction Box (IPJB)
I don't know where this is on an L car but someone else can chime in.
______
Upon further consideration, unless the jumper cables were defective, not making good contact, or not connected properly, ANY proper connection of the jumper cables should have at least lit up the dash or headlights.
If you hook the jumper cables up, what voltage do you read on the L's battery? It should be somewhere around 14.4 V or in the 13's. If not, you're not actually electrically connected (this assumes the the jumping car is running.)
If you get the 13-14V, but the L is still dead, then I suspect the connection between the battery and the UHJB is involved.
a) Your battery is toast.
Pull it and take it to autozone or similar. They will test it for free.
It may be that your battery has developed such a high internal resistance that, per V=IR (Ohm's law) 12 V (small V) = (tiny I) x (Huge R) so the current is so small that it isn't enough to do anything.
b) the issue is the connection between the battery and the main Underhood Junction box (UHJB) with the fuses and relays. No juice to that= no juice to anything, including the Instrument Panel Junction Box (IPJB)
I don't know where this is on an L car but someone else can chime in.
______
Upon further consideration, unless the jumper cables were defective, not making good contact, or not connected properly, ANY proper connection of the jumper cables should have at least lit up the dash or headlights.
If you hook the jumper cables up, what voltage do you read on the L's battery? It should be somewhere around 14.4 V or in the 13's. If not, you're not actually electrically connected (this assumes the the jumping car is running.)
If you get the 13-14V, but the L is still dead, then I suspect the connection between the battery and the UHJB is involved.
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