I hate to say this but engines blow up some times because transmissions don't shift into higher gears. You may have a pre-existing condition.

 

awesome 02 LW300, low high pressure? what does it say about that? how do i check that? yes i figured that, the engine was blown and i believe the tranny had something to do with it. the rod shot through bottom of oil pan... reason i put new engine.

 

i only paid 400 for it, engine for 200, timing parts and water pump 100, so its worth still fixing... i also already replaced a and b solenoids so thats ruled out.... whats getting me is that the pan and side cover of tranny was pretty damn clean, fluid was brown but not burnt... it was way overfilled, thats for sure... any simple things in tranny that could of got messed up because of it being so overfilled.... i got 13 quarts out of pan drop... wow

 

I think they hold 7.5 with the filter change. The trannys are pretty cheap because they hardly ever fail. I even have an extra 03 tranny that I'm sure is good. I paid $100 for this car, I just wanted the engine but i saved a bunch of parts including the tranny. This car worked fine until it had an off road adventure!

 

cool, the colbalt i got engine from was wrecked but it was driven in and they heard it run... if i would of known this from beginning i would of just took engine with tranny, not sure if it would of worked without getting ecm/pcm flashed.
lol it had 5 extra quarts, i put 8.4 in before i started getting the dripping out of hole but it sat for over 24 hours draining so figured was ok.

 

The Vue has a lower final drive ratio than the cars. You need one out of an HHR, a G-6 or a vue. Check with the wrecking yard they will have an interchange listing.

 

far out, groovy, bitchin even.... so do u have any ideas about this tranny of mine? do you think taking valve body out and just cleaning and putting new seals in would be the way to go of just get a dif tranny?

 

Wow! Good job 02 LW30!

Direct from the Factory Service Manual! I see no mention of an oil pressure sending unit or PCM/TCM in the "Possible Causes" sections. This should without a doubt answer Confuzzled last two questions. Well, except for the thump noise. I will address that too...

Okay there Confuzzled:

In the manual 02-LW300 posted...To check the first two, low line pressure and TFP manual valve, you will need to attach a pressure gauge to the line pressure port on the transmission...I still recommend a transmission shop for this procedure as you will need a pressure chart for all the different ranges, and a tap chart for the right pressure port, if you have a 300psi gauge, you can find the info on line, or in a Factory Service Manual, or ask 02-Lw300 as he has that information too.

The next two possibilities you already addressed by replacing both shift solenoids.

Everything else is internal, and the valve body or trans will have to be taken out and dissembled for inspection to pinpoint the exact cause of the malfunction.

I can assure you that oil pressure will not affect the operation of the transmission. Although it can affect engine operation. Yes, on some vehicles, the fuel injectors will not pulse (squirt fuel), ignition system will not fire (provide ground for the coils to fire the spark plugs), and/or the fuel pump will be disabled until the PCM receives the proper oil pressure and/or crank sensor signals. These will set a code for low or no oil pressure and/or no ckm (crank shaft position sensor) signals.

You may be on to something about the oil warning light transfer. As per my experience, all the dash light bulbs are clear. There is a colored film/lens between the bulb and the outer lens. Like your turn signals don't have green bulbs, there is a colored film that makes them look green. Warning indicators have a red or orange film, and the high-beam indicators usually have a blue one. You said the warning light is red when you turn the key to the accessory position or "on", then is white after starting the engine. I have a simple test that will help diagnose this problem, I think Derf also recommended this.

Turn your ignition on, but don't start the vehicle, after the gauge cluster does it's bulb check, and all the warning lights go off, leave the key on without starting the engine and see if the warning light is white? If your headlights are not coming on, you may need to turn them on and see if the warning light is coming on then? I have seen a few cases of bulbs staying on too long, or the wrong bulbs used as replacements burning through the plastic, and illuminating other indicators. Depending on where the color film is located, this my very well be your problem with the oil pressure or oil level warning light.

Okay, the last, and very least of your problems, haha. The 3 Thumping Noises. Does your Vue have rear heat and or rear A/C? If so, it is most likely a HVAC blend-door malfunction, caused by an broken or out of calibration actuator. You will need a scanner, not a "code reader" to check the BCM for codes, and to check the operation of the rear HVAC actuators. Repair cost is minor compared to a transmission rebuild or replacement. Noise from the rear, will have nothing to do with the front mounted transmission. Good to cover all the bases though.

Now I understand we are all throwing a lot of questions and tests at you, but please don't be discouraged. We are all professionals here, or at least like to think so, haha. Without getting our hands on this Vue, we have to rely on you for answers. This is not always the best way to diagnose anything, but we can certainly narrow down the possibilities if given the proper information...and given..."the rest of the story." LOL!

I see several posts before I could finish my reply. Last question, replace or repair transmission. If I spend 6 to 8 hours pulling and installing a transmission...I want some type of warranty! Go with a used one, under 100K miles, out of HHR, a G-5 or a Vue as 02-LW300 recommended, make sure it's also the same engine (2.2).

Please...let us know what you find out, or decide to do.

 

i will def let you all know what i decide to do, but im def going to keep it for her "THE BOSS" lol like i said i already have a great engine installed and put the new timing and water pump in, runs like a champ so def worth putting a tranny in.... i am leaning on a stuck valve behind solenoid "B" so im still going to give the sea foam a chance... going slowly through all the gears slowly and driving it around the hood at a reasonable pace for a few times this week... u never know... if there is a restriction, it is worth a shot to me to give it a shot, its already in there now... i have Hope! AND THANKS TO ALL OF YOU FOR THE HELP, I appreciate it

 

Okay Guys, I missed one.

If the pan was clean...at 100K, someone has serviced it, cleaned the pan, installed a new filter and put in new fluid before the engine blew-up, trying to fix the exact codes you found. Most likely overfilled it because of no dip stick and didn't know how to check it. At 100K, there will be black soot in the pan, with some sparkling brass floating around, and a somewhat fuzzy magnet. Although these units aren't as dirty as say a TH350, or a 4L60E they do generate some degree of material, especially at 100K. If the pan was clean...someone has already been in there, based on my 35 years of experience.

Most people never service a transmission...until there is a problem! Never go 100K before a service as the dealerships/manufacturers recommend. I recommend every 30K. The manufacturers say 100K, because they know it will be way out of warranty, and they want you to buy a new trans from them. Most aftermarket re-builders will recommend a trans service at 25K to 35K for their warranty disclaimers. Doesn't matter if it "is" or takes Dextron-6/full synthetic, still recommend 30K no matter the recommendation of desired fluid. For GM, anything 06 and newer takes full synthetic or Dexrton-6. I believe they are recommending that for everything now, no matter what year it's built.

As far as being way over full, I have seen owners fill there transmissions to the top, by that I mean up to the top of the fill plug without any internal damage. What they will do is leak from every orifice on the transmission, and gush fluid out of the bell housing and fill plug. The fill plug is also the vent on GM transmissions without a dipstick. The fluid expands as it warms up, with no place to go, it takes the paths of least resistance. To simply answer your question, overfilling it will make a mess, but I have not seen internal damage caused by it. If some valve body ports are unable to vent fluid pressure, it could affect operation, but not permanent damage. Once the proper level is achieved, they work just fine, based on my experience.