this is what my car does. starts up fine, after i put it in drive and drive awhile then put it back in park it acts like it wants to stall. the rpm's will go down to about 400 then rev up to almost 2000. if i shut it off then turn it back on it will be ok in park but if i go to put it in rverese or drive the rpms get real low agian then it will eventually stall. and sometimeswhen i stop at a stop light or something,the rpms get real low and the caracts like it wants to stallwould that still be the fuel injectors or coul it be something else. i dont want to go and pat alot of money to fix something its not. also is there a site to buy accessories for my car, stuff to add to it or things i could buy to make it look better?

 

Have you changed out your fuel filter lately?

 

yea ive changed the fuel filter, the pcv valve, air filter, and just about anything else i knew how to do. last night it would start up then stall. and i had to keep my foot on the gas when slowing down at a stop light or else it would stall. i'm so aggravated[img]smileys/smiley5.gif[/img]

 

Sounds like EGR valve may be sticking. This is common on the S cars if you've been burning oil for a while; the EGR valve gets coated with carbon residue and sticks in place. Or the EGR solenoid may be flaking out (the PCM sends a signal to the solenoid to actuate the EGR valve).

EGR problems usually show up on accel and decel, as the valve is opening or closing) and will produce the RPM gyrations you're describing. Usually, after it stalls, it won't start up again right away -- but then 10 seconds later, it starts like nothing is wrong......

I have seen quite a few posts about the EGR solenoids flaking/failing -- this often will occur initially only when the engine is warmed up and the solenoid itself is warm....

If you're at 75K+ mi & burn a decent amount of oil, my money is on the EGR valve sticking......

Hope this helps.

Please post resolution.

Derf

 

try cleaning ther injectors or replace them

 

The two most common failures on the car is the EGR and the ECTS. Service the EGR and replace the ECTS. By the way, is the SES light on and if it is, what's the failure code?

 

ok i changed the egr valve ($150). too damn expensive! its brand new. well the rpms dont jump up and down anymore. but now, after running awhile, will stall if i put it in park. and it is hard to start up after being shut off and restarted. and sometimes when i stop it acts like it wants to stall, but not always. also the idle is still too high, around 900-1000 when in drive sitting still and about 1100-1200 when warmed up in drive. i appreciate all the help! i hope to get this thing running right. id hate to have to take it to a mechanic and spend alot more money.

 

where and what is the ects ?

 

ECTS (engine control temp sensor) controls the air to fuel mixture. It's just left of the EGR mounted in the engine head. It's kind of tucked into a cavity right below the valve cover.It has a two wire harness, it looks like a mini-spark plug when you've got it out. You'll have to take the air intake duct off to get to it. If you still have the data plate on your radiator cross beam, it shows you where it is. Auto Zone.com has"do it yourself" help files that might have some pictures.Before you start,go down to the parts store andbuy one. It shouldn't be more than $20 for brass tip and $10 for the old resin tip type. Try to getthe brass but if you can't, the resin tip is good for a couple years.(the resin tips crack)Be ready to put the new one in when you pull the old one because you be dumping coolant fluid. The two wire connector is a snap fitting that has to to be squeezed together with needle noise pliers to get it off. Check the connector for corrosion, repair if required.


PS You didn't have to buy a new EGR, you where suppose to clean the old one. Scraping out the carbon build up. That's what I meant when I said service it.