LOl. Hey rube, dang it! Im being told this by others that this might be the case. Improper bleeding with air in the abs module that requires a tech scan tool. So I'm going to try the other bleeding procedure. RL FR RR FL. Im leaning the booster last, is a big job. Thx for reply thou. This driving me nuts.

I'll be the first to admit that I don't know diddly about ABS systems, but still think the law of physics will apply. I agree with the way you bled the brakes. I've always done mine in the RR, LR, RF, LF fashion and have NEVER had the problems you're having. I'll be 57 years old in August, and have been working on my own vehicles for over 40 years. I don't claim to be a mechanic, but I've kept all of my stuff going since I was just a teenager. I wish someone could explain that deal to me about the air in the system expanding!

makes no sense to me that only one wheel would drag if it were the booster.

Based on brake wear pix above and re-occurrence, to me it seems that the caliper pin may be bent and not allowing proper motion, or the caliper piston is not retracting.

The proof is in the pads

Damn, Derf. I always heard the proof is in the pudding. Now I've had to learn a new saying! LOL

I did a friend look at it. He said the brake pedal feels not right. He said he feels it dropping a bit. I kinda noticed that myself but I thought that's some what normal for all disk brakes. They feel good to me but if you do pump then a bit hard I can make it go all the way down. But in normal driving conditions, I never have to push the pedal down to stop fully. I can lock the wheels with the pedal half way down honestly. What's your pinion on that? I called in for a warranty replacement. Might throw it in today and bleed it Like lots of ppl are recommending. A cross bleed for abs. I'll update later.

Yup, only odd wear was the rear right. I'm throwing in the new warranty master today for peace of mind. Some others are thinking the MC could be faulty. Since its a free
Replacement on warranty and will cost me only time, I'm doing it. If that fails to resolve it. I will take a closer look at the rr caliper and the hose. Most likely just throw in a house since they are not expensive. Lol... I'm turning into that guy that replaced everything including grandmas cooking ware

I don't think it's the caliper though, since removing the booster valve instantly frees the drag. Just my thoughts.

I did the master Cylinder. Lololol. I did the cross bleed. I regret it. Lol. My pedal goes weak to the ground when I put the bottle on the front passanger and rear driver cakipers. Lol. But leave it for 15 second and it builds pressure again. Brakes feel ok. But haven't driven it fully. They grab well. But I'm curious if the dragging will occur. Update later.

Hahaha! Son of a gun! Open can of worms. In having trouble bleeding this now. I come toa stop and there's good brake travel and pressure, as I wait for the light, suddenly the brakes pedal slowly sinks low. I have to press harder to stop the car from rolling. Almost goes to the floor. Sound like air? Does this pattern consistently. I pump the pedal and hold it firm, give it about 15 seconds and it begins to sink. Its another rebuilt MC from Oreilly. I going to bleed the death out of them tomorrow again. Good news is they haven't dragged ! Lolollololol

One more thing guys. Thank you a million too. You guys have been helpful. So the new master is in. With the engine off. Its rock hard. Putting about 20lbs of foot wait I'm able to make it go down slowly to the ground. Please don't tell me it's a faulty MC! Will air in the line do this?