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What does the brake master to booster oring do btw? Hold vacuum or pressure between the booster and master?
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Well... wish me luck on today's death bleed! Lol
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Ok. Update time. Bleed the death happened. Pedal goes to floor. Paid shop 80 $ to power bleed to death. Shop said "your Master Cylinder is bad". Called OReilly. Sold me a new MC instead of another warranty replacement. I just have to pay 30 $ and get the new one. Gonna put it in on Monday. Lol.
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This thing has been a real flustercluck for you, hasn't it?
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1 Attachment(s)
I want to drove it over a hill Rube! But here's a new update. I put in the new MC today. It works rather well. I didn't even have to bleed it to death. A simple bleed in 5 minutes made it rock hard and does not sink. So the rebuild was bad out the box. But unfortunately. .. The brake drag is there and get a hold of this.! I get the tracking and anti skid lights on and drew a code C0131. Heres the pic on the scanner. But one thing is for sure. I think the Master works so well that the drag has been amplified! On the test drive in about 10 minutes of driving the drag came back and it almost completely locked the brakes! I opened up the rear passenger bleeder (squirted out with pressure) and the car rolled home again. It did the drag right before home and I opened up the rear driver bleeder and it also squirted out fluid. So its pointing away from being a sole caliper. What does that mean on the scanner? Abs unit or something outside the unit? Halp! Ive had it.lolololol
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Does the ABS system have a fuse? If so, pull that sum beech and see if the problem goes away. You don't need the ABS in order to have brakes.
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rube.. The car drove me nuts. traded it in. it did have a faulty abs module due to my local mechanics diagnosis. cost to repair it was 1400 $. I can't spend more on it. The brand is gone and putting more into it is a bad investment. stealer only have me 4000 for it. lol. Thxs rube for the help. Take care and Maui the force be with you. lol
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Dang, that was an interesting but effective way to fix it! I too have know knowledge on how ABS systems work. And to date dread the moment I am going to have to learn. But in reading the whole thread to this point I came up with 2 questions.
What is a PS? I have no idea and I hate acronyms for exactly that reason. To me, a PS is Power Steering which has nothing to do with. Well maybe not, a number of light trucks use the power steering pump for the "Power" portion of power brakes. Also I have had only one problem with ABS and it was on a junk yard purchase Dodge Caravan and it did all the things described here plus a few others except actually lock up the brakes causing things to drag. I never did figure it out but did find out that parts costs were astronomical so never bought anything for it, but eventually solved it the same way. What do you expect from a $500.00 junk yard van anyway. |
What did you trade it in on? A hemi-powered Challenger or Charger?
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Lol. PS means passenger side. When you are talking about bleeding brakes. I did research and found out many gm owners had similar abs failure. And the dealer swapped out 1 costly module. Then the issue was back a few days later. Then they swapped another costly module, and the issue returned. Then finally the abs pump. So in total people paid thousands top fix this dragging issue. So since it's a dead brands, and resale drops fast by the months, I had to dump it.
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Bit anyways, traded it in for a 2011 Ford edge with 24k miles. Found a good deal on it for 19k. And looks about 95% new. So I'm pleased.
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The Edge IS a nice looking vehicle. I don't think you'll get the mileage out of it that your Saturn was giving you, though. Keep us posted on how it does. My wife likes the way they look and I'd gladly give up this Equinox for the right deal on one.
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Yup, the vue did treat me good for 5 years. Only break down I had was the torque converter at 77(. Under warranty. Only self repair jobs were due to tracing the drag. Which was 1 brake line, booster valve, Brake master due to leaking and battery. So it did treat me good.
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This edge does look really good and the power of 289hp is incredible. Never had so much power so it's fun driving.
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Brake drag problem
I know this is an old thread but the problem persists. I posted on another thread that there are two likely problems if brake drag develops in the Theta platform cars ‘10 or older. One is the brake hoses get squeezed by rusty brackets and the other is tha the master cylinder goes bad and leaks into the brake booster. The the booster malfunctions and both need to be replaced. So here’s what I’ve learned. If your brakes seize intermittently it’s probably the brake lines (hoses) problem. If it’s constant it’s probably the master cylinder/booster problem. Okay, assuming you find that problem and fix it, problem two can, but not always rear it’s disgusting head. Sometimes the new brake booster/master cylinder combo, even if they are ACDELCO both, can be slightly out of adjustment which will result in, BINGO, the same siezing problem. This is what sends people off the deep end. I had to remove the new master cylinder and screw on the pushrod inside the booster. Now, I compared the new and old adjustment of the push rod and they were the same. Yet, I had to turn the rod in about three turns. You have to clamp the base of the rod and turn the insert in with a socket. This cured my problem including the Stabiltrak/traction Control lights. This whoordeal took me over a week to figure out and since my original problem was the hoses, it kind of aggravates me that GM hasn’t owned up to this issue. I don’t even care if they waited till my (or your) car went out of warranty before contacting us because it still would have been better to pay than to go crazy chasing the problem. Hope this post helps. I didn’t explain some technical stuff but I wanted to focus on clearing up the confusion. |
Awesome info for some pissed off people. Thank t.
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excellent write up does this apply to non ABS models
As my title asks, does this apply to non ABS models?
Originally Posted by jcj5072
(Post 58806)
I know this is an old thread but the problem persists. I posted on another thread that there are two likely problems if brake drag develops in the Theta platform cars ‘10 or older. One is the brake hoses get squeezed by rusty brackets and the other is tha the master cylinder goes bad and leaks into the brake booster. The the booster malfunctions and both need to be replaced. So here’s what I’ve learned. If your brakes seize intermittently it’s probably the brake lines (hoses) problem. If it’s constant it’s probably the master cylinder/booster problem. Okay, assuming you find that problem and fix it, problem two can, but not always rear it’s disgusting head. Sometimes the new brake booster/master cylinder combo, even if they are ACDELCO both, can be slightly out of adjustment which will result in, BINGO, the same siezing problem. This is what sends people off the deep end. I had to remove the new master cylinder and screw on the pushrod inside the booster. Now, I compared the new and old adjustment of the push rod and they were the same. Yet, I had to turn the rod in about three turns. You have to clamp the base of the rod and turn the insert in with a socket. This cured my problem including the Stabiltrak/traction Control lights. This whoordeal took me over a week to figure out and since my original problem was the hoses, it kind of aggravates me that GM hasn’t owned up to this issue. I don’t even care if they waited till my (or your) car went out of warranty before contacting us because it still would have been better to pay than to go crazy chasing the problem. Hope this post helps. I didn’t explain some technical stuff but I wanted to focus on clearing up the confusion. |
If the problem is in your case due to the constricted brake lines or a bad master cylinder, abs is irrelevant in my opinion. Same goes for adjusting the rod on the booster.
The other poster seemed to think it was a faulty abs. This is also possible. Basically, as I understand it, brake fluid is pushed out to the calipers but the fluid cannot/does not flow back towards the master cylinder when the brake pedal is released so the pads stay pinned to the rotors and drag. The question is why.u |
brake dragging
Originally Posted by simcoewaters
(Post 61864)
As my title asks, does this apply to non ABS models?
Jeff |
reply was timely
Thanks Jeff. I am working on my sons Saturn Ion 2004 2.2L. Investigation found the rear of the brake reservoir to be very low. I topped this up and located one of the two lines that run from the dynamic brake proportioner to the master cylinder was leaking. These two lines running from either end of the proportioner showed lots of rust and run together to the master cylinder located below the reservoir. An initial search for an image of a M/C for a Saturn revealed images of M/C's with four brake lines. I am remedying the broken lines before I tackle the brake drag issue. The previous posts should be very helpful. P.S. I will post images of the saturn Ions layout in the appropriate thread if I can locate it. Thanks again to all contributors.
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2008 saturn vue awd
I have 2008 saturn vue awd I've changed calipers and pads twice. They're dual piston calipers. When took off this time they were wore uneven. Can feel the brakes sticking as drive it. Steering wheel jumps and can hear it in the front end. When stop brake area is extremely hot.
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Not being sarcastic in the least, but one of the answers above is likely to be the cause. Multiple issues with multiple parts of the braking system can lead to more or less the same behavior. The 2nd generation Vues with the new body style are notorious for this. Read the entire thread above and troubleshoot from there. Good luck
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