Please Post in the correct section for your vehicle.

Please describe etc; we weren't there and don't know what you did n didn't do.

What is the voltage across the battery terminals when the vehicle starts successfully? Starting battery voltage Plus (Have a buddy turn the key and watch the voltage dip and come back up)

What is the voltage across the battery terminals when the vehicle does not start successfully? Starting battery voltage Plus (Have a buddy turn the key and watch the voltage dip). How far down does the voltage dip?

If you take a short trip (<1 mi), turn off the vehicle, and immediately:try to restart it, what happens? Starting battery voltage Plus have a buddy turn the key and watch the voltage dip

Any idiot lights on the dash? Service engine soon light on? If so, please get the service engine soon codes red at AutoZone or similar. It's completely free. Post as P xxxx.

Hell, while you're there, also ask them to do a load test on the charging system.

If the vehicle will not start once you are there, are you able to jump it with a jump box or another running vehicle?

 

I posted what I know. I'm not a mechanic or electrician. I figured with all the expert postings on this forum someone would have run into this problem.
All the dash lights work but won't start unless the engine is cold. Otherwise there is only a click noise and the dash lights go dim when trying to start.
Brand new Diehard battery.
Auto parts run diagnostic scan but no codes appeared.
Installed new battery terminals.
Install new starter relay.
Zilch....

 

So etc = new starter relay

Tests I laid out above are intended to help determine if the issue is directly related to the battery only being marginally charged, thus pointing to a possible alternator issue, versus something like a poor or intermittent connection due to damaged battery leads or a poor connection at the fuse box.

When you have a battery that is not quite fully charged, it can slightly recover on its own based on the chemistry going on inside the battery. It's not a huge recovery but can be the difference between starting and not starting. If you run down your battery trying to start the vehicle, sometimes if you wait long enough, the generated charge level will self restore just enough to turn the engine over.

This is partly why I wanted you to take a short trip, turn it off, then immediately try to turn it back on.

But you didn't try any of what I suggested.
We can suggest troubleshooting steps, but you need to carry them out or have someone do so.

 

Sorry, I've under the weather but still above ground lol
OK, I installed a new starter, a new alternator, had all the fuses under the hood checked, replace the battery and the battery terminals. Had Autozone run their diagnostic but nothing shows up.
Still, when I start the car, the battery light comes on after 5 to 10 seconds and starts draining the power...so it's back on the charger again.
I know I'm old but and don't think the way I use to but this is ridiculous.

 

Shotgunting parts is not going to help you and it's terribly cost ineffective. However, in this case, it does help us rule out certain things.

You do think the way that you used to. You just don't think that you do. Or do you? it's either something very obvious we are overlooking or something very non-obvious.

 

Does that car have automatic overdrive? If so, maybe it'd a defective torque converter lockup switch. I had a POS Olsdmobile that would quit running after about 20 minutes and if I let it cool off for a while, it would start and go again. I just unplugged the damned thing because I didn't want to get into the transmission on a $400 car.

 

Well, I had the new alternator tested while engine was running and somehow.....this alternator has gone bad as well.....
Why are the alternators not charging as they are suppose to ?
This is the dang-est thing I ever heard of.
I've got a friend picking up a used and tested OEM alternator at a salvage yard and we'll see what that one does.

 

If you bought a remanufactured alternator from AutoZone, no one is surprised. Their electrical items suck.

Try a remanufactured one from Napa or RockAuto. And not the cheapest thing you can find. Not implying that was the case before, simply stating so going forward.

Is the ground where the other end of the negative cable meets the frame of the car clean and corrosion free? A poor connection on this ground will cause large fluctuations in current/voltage which can damage the alternator. Note the voltage regulator is usually inside the alternator. Also, are you sure the alternator is hooked up correctly?