After, changing out the pins and boots on my calipers( pins only on passenger side) we were bleeding the brake line.

after pumping, holding, and finally releasing the brake pedal the engine revs up to about 2500rpm, then almost stalls out? Wtf is that?

 

It sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere to me. Did you bleed from the caliper or the master cylinder? I don't really see how bleeding brakes could cause the engine to rev unless you have a problem with the vacuum line running to the power brake assembly. That makes ZERO sense to me, but I'm NOT a mechanic.

 

Did you disturb by accident any of the vacuum hose connections near the area where you were working on the ECTS?. There is a vacuum line that runs to the power brake booster which is the big thing behind the master cylinder, attached to the firewall.

This has to be connected to function properly. I'm thinking it got knocked off by mistake at one end or the other. Just trace it back from the connection at the power brake booster and check it for tears/holes, especially where it connects at either end.

Also, did you bleed the entire brake system? Right rear left rear right front left front? You must do all four corners to get all the air out (If you haven't already) in the order listed.

 

No we didnt bleed them all.

started with front drivers brake, but ran out of time. I told him that i was ok with finishing the rest on a different day.

still need to put on the rear brakes,
rotors are very bad;
not sure about vacuum leak,
tried to find one with the moron who improperly put my rear brakes back on( i doubt he checked properly)

 

Do you mean rotors for the front brakes or drums for the rear brakes? The big heavy thing that the brake shoes push out on for the rear brakes?

Regardless of which one you're talking about, if they are not flat for the rotors and circular/cylindrical for the drums, you will wreck your new pads soon enough. Plus, if they are warped, you will feel it in the brake pedal as a pulsation. Having one corner that is warped is bad enough. Two is truly annoying. I've never had three but I never want to.

The moral is if you are replacing parts to regain function, the new parts will last longer if they are installed along with other new parts so that everything wears properly. Last longer equals costs less per unit time. I know finances are tight, but this is the perfect opportunity to get all four corners brakes straightened out.

If the vehicle shudders with hard braking, and it's not ABS kicking in, then it is at a point where it is not safe to ignore the rotors in the front.

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Well, i guess its time to replace the rotors, when ive got more than just one person telling me that then im sure i should listen. Im gonna go look at pricing and try to figure out budgeting them in.

 

Jesus h christ! The price difference from autozone to rock auto is crazy. Any suggestions?

 

Get these from RockAuto. They are name brand if nothing else. Low end RockAuto stuff is low end decent stuff. Low end everywhere else is.,.????

Some of the truly inexpensive rotors are actually below minimum thickness which is dangerous

Order two as the price is per rotor