so I did the diagnostic with the paper clip on my 93 saturn sl2 it gave me the code 26 I know what to do with that but I also noticed the water level/temp light also blinked a code which was 84 Im not sure what to do about that one if anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it..thank you

Jonas.

PS. I also always check my damn oil so as not to kill it LoL Love my saturn.

 

As far as I know, only the SES light flashes for OBDI codes in the Sattys.

The temp light flashing 8 and then 4 times was probably just the coolant being ever so slightly low. I believe the level switch depends on downward pressure of the reservoir contents when the engine is cold and the thermostat is closed. It really doesn't take much of a level drop at all to **** off the pressure switch. Also, when the thermostat opens, there seems to be a tiny level drop, but that is quickly reversed when the coolant begins to warm and expand.

Sometimes you can remove the reservoir and clean the crud off the sensor and it will stop doing that.

I replaced the reservoir on my 95SC2, but it didn't solve the problem. I am now of the mindset that these pressure switches' trigger points are drifting w time. My 97 SC2 did it for the first time last winter at startup when the coolant had contracted just enough from ambient temperature drop to trigger the pressure switch. I have no doubt the switches in the replacement reservoirs we're all made at least 10 to 15 years ago, which is why the new parts exhibit the same issue.

I recommend replacing the tank and switch (comes as a unit) before dry rot leads to self destruction under pressure. You have to mess w making the coolant level just a little higher to keep the switch happy.

Code 26

I have a whole mess of threads on the forum on troubleshooting this.

Check in order

SES light (you know it works)
Cooling fan relay
A/C compressor clutch
CCP ( charcoal canister purge) = EVap purge solenoid
EGR solenoid
Coolant Hot light (works)
Upshift/shift to D2 light
Speedometer cutout

Enjoy

 

Thank you for your quick response I appreciate your input I will look into the EVap purge solenoid and I have also just replaced the a/c compressor the light did not come on as much before that now its all the time and it seems to stay on longer now after compressor replacement..than k you again while Im here I may as well ask if you have any input on a type of shock/strut replacements that are any good .I bought 4 for a hundred and the ride is almost worse then before with the old ones lol .so I guess I got what I paid for .I plan on doing the whole suspension underneath and would like to add a GOOD set of shock/struts to
the mix for a smoother ride .any help would be greatly appreciated .thank you again .Ill let you how things are going with the rest soon .

 

I have some Monroe non cheap ones in the back of my 97SC2. They suck and the mounting hardware deforms the bolts by design I believe. Wouldn't be a huge deal if they weren't impossible to get to.

And no, Rube, I did not cross thread 6 consec identical bolts...

Everyone and their brother uses kyb gr 2 s. The fronts arr a bit too stiff but the backs are about stock.

If it's a 93 DOHC with all season performance tires (similar to the original Firehawk FTAs that shipped with the car .you'll get great road stick. You know what I mean. Those early sedans stuck to the road like glue.

If you find softer front shocks that don't wreck the handling please share.

You may see Monroe strut spring packs for the S cars. Monroe does not make one for the satty s cars. I know because I called them myself. The people out there selling them online are jagoffs.

For comfort you can go down a sidewall class from whatever the FTAs were to one step cushier. Easier on your back but just doesn't handle the same. Just have to compromise

 

ok thank you I was reading the same stuff l;ol also just ordered an evap purge everything else seems to be in order