My car was running weird rpm real high at stop sign pulled in drive way turned it off when I cranked it rpm still at 3 and climbing. Took it to Autozone and it coded crank position sensor and temp sensor. The next day I drove to my moms to Autozone to get parts on way home it started shaking and sputtering would not go. I had to leave it where it sat. The next day got someone to pull it to my moms, but it cranked right up rims high but settled. Drove it to her house changed temp sensor will not start now. Went ahead and changed the crank position sensor, still no start. Was told to change the ignition coils (I did) new battery, spark plugs and wires. I'm not a mechanic and no way to one. It cranks but won't turn over now. Please help.

 

Stop listening to the idiots at AZ. They are NOT mechanics. The high rpms sounds more like a vacuum leak to me. I'n NOT a mechanic either, but have kept my own cars running for over 45 years. You MIGHT have a blown intake manifold gasket, which is not uncommon in the 1.9 engines. Start the car and spray some carb cleaner, or brake cleaner around the intake and see if it revs even higher. If so, it's most likely the intake gasket. And read my other posted reply to your other post.

 

It doesn't start it had it tested before it died and it coded temp sensor and crank position sensor. It ran before I replaced the temp sensor. Afterwards it would not turn over. I then replaced everything else. I will visually check the intake. Thank you for the help. I will let you know the outcome. Thank you again.

 

why the hell does everyone post in the Help and suggestion center when there are 21 other categories listed by model? Moved.

 

WHAT YEAR IS IT? 91? 2002?

OOJHHH it's a 96----I found that in your DOUBLE POSTING.

We have no tolerance for double posting on this forum.
You have been warned. Do it again and you're outta here.
We're very nice helpful people ---just don't **** us off over stupid crap like that. It's one of about 4 rules on this forum.

(Now that you've blown hundreds on parts you don't need, someone who is a regular on the forum gives you advice and you say thank you but no, I'm not doing that.

I have been driving S cars for 25 years and have never seen a coolant temp sensor throw a code when they go. If yours did, the code itself is half the answer to the problem.

What was the P code Pxxxx ? Out of range low or out of range high ?

Usually they fail cold and over richen the fuel air mix to the point the car won't start. But yours was still running.
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CKP code is also extremely rare to throw. If the CKP is defective, it is not putting out intelligible pulses when the crank is turning. If this does not happen, the PCM turns off the fuel injectors and inhibits spark generation because it does not know where the pistons are in their travel.
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1) Autozone CTSs are crap. They are generic and not made for a Saturn specific application. You may get one that kind of mimics a proper GM part or you may get one that mimics a penguin's **** in the summer....all the time. Or it could be defective to start with, causing s no start condition.

Additionally, the condition of the connector is critical. Any green corrosion or rust screws the resistance of the circuit, the PCM thinks it is -35 all the time (serious) and the fuel mix becomes so rich, the car will fight to and may not start.

I'm gonna guess the connector is hosed and not making contact, which is the electrical equivalent of infinite resistance.
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I would first try putting the OLD coolant temp sensor back in and see if that makes it run again. If it does it is a defective sensor wrong sensor angry sensor antisocial sensor. And you know that the connector is at least functional

And if the car starts and runs, they at least gave you the correct CKP sensor and you know you are getting spark, etc. It is impossible to tell whether the lugging was caused by the engine just about flooding from a bad ECTS or mass confusion from a CKP outputting unintelligible signals to the PCM. However, when the car thinks the CKP is bad, it usually will stop running on the spot to prevent engine damage.
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My initial vote goes towards bogus coolant temp sensor and/or connector. CKP may also have been bad but has been replaced, hopefully with the right part.

So we need the Pxxxx codes. Not the definition of the codes. the Pxxxx codes themselves.

Borrow a code reader and learn how to use it. It is not that difficult.

Also, if the thing is idling at 3K rpm, it could be anything from a vacuum leak to a sticking throttle plate assembly to......

Sounds to me like what happens when the s shaped hose between the PCv valve and the air intake comes off

 

Derf is absolutely correct as usual. Put back on the original parts until it runs again and diagnose again. AZone can read codes and that is all. I admit to buying trailer plugs at AZ only because Napa was closed. Not that either makes parts, only markets the same Chinese crap.

 

You didn't by any chance put teflon tape on the sensor, did you? If so, try removing it, clean the teflon off and reinstall it and see if it starts. I'm not sure about the Saturn, but some cars use the sensor to make the ground connection that controls it. And as a former AZ employee, I can testify that I had a crap load of sensors come back to the store that were defective out of the box. A genuine GM sensor should be tried after you do what Andy and derf suggested.

 

The codes are... P0118 high voltage, and P0336 sensor A. I have put the old temp sensor back on and still won't start. It tries but just won't turn over.

 

When you say it won't turn over, do you mean the engine won't rotate or that is rotates, but just doesn't start? Four things have to be present for an engine to start and run. You need fuel, spark, compression and air. Check your plugs and see what color the spark is. If it's not a nice blue/white spark, it's not hot enough. If that's good, check your fuel pump and make sure you're getting gas into the throttle body. If that's good, you need to run a compression test. Both a dry one and a wet one and compare the readings. Lastly,make sure some varmit hasn't built a nest in your air intake. Have you, by any chance, tried a 2 second burst of starting fluid in the throttle body, just to see if it will start and run for a few seconds?

 

Hey did you ever get this running?