Saturn acting weird when starting up and after
Hello everyone my name is David. I drive a 1995 Saturn sl1. I've been having this ongoing problem with my car that comes and goes and is starting to happen frequently. So whats weird, is anytime I start the car it hesitates. It takes about the second crank for the car to idle and even when it idles it will sputter then idle itself back to normal. Some mornings when I start it the first time during the day, the car will start fine. Another problem that happens sometimes is when I shut the a/c off, the car will quit or sometimes the car will quit on its own without shutting the a/c off while I'm in the middle of traffic. I usually have to start it again.
So the problem is getting a little worse because I notice the rpm needle while I'm driving like lets say 30-50 mph..the rpm will tickle and ill feel the car jolt into acceleration...it does hesitate a little bit when i give it gas. I don't think its a transmission issue so please don't say i need a new transmission. Please help me.
Also how to check the fuel pressure for the fuel injectors?
So the problem is getting a little worse because I notice the rpm needle while I'm driving like lets say 30-50 mph..the rpm will tickle and ill feel the car jolt into acceleration...it does hesitate a little bit when i give it gas. I don't think its a transmission issue so please don't say i need a new transmission. Please help me.
Also how to check the fuel pressure for the fuel injectors?
There is a Schrader valve on the fuel rail leading to the injectors. It is under the hood on the fuel line. Trace backwards from the injectors and you will find it. Fuel pressure key on and fuel pressure car running are two different things. Check both and report back
The term idle is used to describe the engine running at its low RPM after the engine has fully warmed up. For example on your Saturn, I believe it is between 700 and 750 RPM which you may verify on the tachometer.
So, reinterpreting your description above, the car cranks and starts but right after starting, it stumbles and runs roughly, but then smooths out.
Also, sometimes the car will stall out sitting in traffic. Sometimes the AC will cause it to stall out.
And it hesitates on acceleration, especially around 2500 rpm. Yes?
Sounds to me like the engine coolant temperature sensor ECTS or the connector to it or both need to be replaced.
The car determines the air fuel mix in part by taking the coolant temperature into account. When the sensor fails or the resistance of the circuit is abnormally high, the car interprets the reading as an extremely low temperature.
The air fuel mix is tweaked to be more rich (more gas) because the car thinks it's -30 out. Since it's actually 65° out, that wrong mix is sort of flooding the engine, so it doesn't run properly. If it misfires badly enough, it can stall. As the engine gets hotter, the air fuel mix remains at the mix for -30 and the problem gets worse and worse.
Another symptom is often a higher than normal idle.
Squeeze to remove the connector for the ects which is located on the driver side in the head. There are actually two but one is for the dash. You are looking for the two wire ects. Remove the connector and measure the resistance when the engine is cold and when the engine is warmed up and idling.
Please post both resistance readings.
Inspect the connector attached to the wiring for corrosion.
So, reinterpreting your description above, the car cranks and starts but right after starting, it stumbles and runs roughly, but then smooths out.
Also, sometimes the car will stall out sitting in traffic. Sometimes the AC will cause it to stall out.
And it hesitates on acceleration, especially around 2500 rpm. Yes?
Sounds to me like the engine coolant temperature sensor ECTS or the connector to it or both need to be replaced.
The car determines the air fuel mix in part by taking the coolant temperature into account. When the sensor fails or the resistance of the circuit is abnormally high, the car interprets the reading as an extremely low temperature.
The air fuel mix is tweaked to be more rich (more gas) because the car thinks it's -30 out. Since it's actually 65° out, that wrong mix is sort of flooding the engine, so it doesn't run properly. If it misfires badly enough, it can stall. As the engine gets hotter, the air fuel mix remains at the mix for -30 and the problem gets worse and worse.
Another symptom is often a higher than normal idle.
Squeeze to remove the connector for the ects which is located on the driver side in the head. There are actually two but one is for the dash. You are looking for the two wire ects. Remove the connector and measure the resistance when the engine is cold and when the engine is warmed up and idling.
Please post both resistance readings.
Inspect the connector attached to the wiring for corrosion.
Let's start simple first. When's the last time you changed the spark plugs? You need to stay with OEM. Have you ever cleaned the throttle body? If not, you REALLY need to. You may also want to get a bottle of Techron Fuel System Cleaner and run a bottle of that through it the next time you fill it up. Derf is the guru here on the S series cars because he's owned 2 and put a LOT of miles on both. If he's pointing you towards the ECTS, that could very well be the issue. What I'm suggesting isn't going to cost very much either and unless you've done them within the last 30,000 miles or so, it's time anyway.
Its been approximately a month, and all of a unexpected the auto is gradual to begin. Thats not to mention "Hard" to begin, it just rolls over REALLY sluggish. After approximately per week, maybe 2 now, of this, it takes a complete 10 seconds of conserving crank for it to turn over, and then it fires right up, no issues.
Kodi
Kodi
Last edited by axkoa; Mar 10, 2024 at 04:29 PM.
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