Is the richpin06a video


all contingent on that initial, 30-second window for checking air, vacuum, and voltages? I feel stupid for asking and I hate admitting it, but there ya go! My feeling smarter for asking far outweighs the feeling stupid for asking. …and it's not so much feeling stupid as it is not wanting to put my web armor on expecting the world to slice me to pieces when weakness shows. Certainly not from the regulars here on the forum, either, just the state of the world thing. Sad, but let's move on.

In 30 seconds, the blower fan makes air. The vacuum from the intake port provides the vacuum for the relay. The relay gets its signal from the ECM to put vacuum on the valve to open the path into the exhaust to give fresh air so the O2 sensor can detect clean air and do its configurations. The catalyst probably is doing something, too.

So as I'm going through the richpin06a video, I'll have to keep shutting it off and restarting every 30 seconds, or ask my neighbor to help.

 

I believe that is the one for sec air issues.
I suggest you watch it in real time about 5 to 8 times. The reason being you need to get a handle on the logic of the way he is troubleshooting. As you said it's all in the first 30 seconds. Once you cram the sequence into your head it will be much easier while you are actually doing the troubleshooting.

And the only stupid question around here is "why didn't you ask?"

 

I checked the blower and confirmed it works. I didn't realize how much it sounds like a high pitched vacuum cleaner. I have air coming from the large tube. I'll check for vacuum on the small line next, I'll check for voltage on the relay contact, and I'm going to take off the two sets of two 10mm bolts on each of the flanged, metal tube to check for carbon build up and check for air flow through the diverter valve.

So applying power to the wires to the switch opens the switch which allows the vacuum to be controlled through it and be applied to the diverter valve, which opens up the diverter valve to let the air flow through it through the metal hose I'lll be checking and into the exhaust manifold.

Once in the manifold, its job is to bathe the O2 sensor and catalytic converter? It's a bit premature, but I'm wondering how those come into play later if I strike out.

If there's carbon build up, it should always be moved out and away from going through the engine?

I think the prefix for the problems, "PO" is pretty obvious why ti was selected.

At 1:40, where do I get a replacement clip for the two vacuum hose connector to the intake manifold? Is that going to be a pick-'n'-part lot?

Is that the purge valve we're dancing around, that the air line and the vacuum line go to and the relay controls?

Is "sec air" shorthand for secondary air?

 

It as actually P zero, not PO. I have had to replace the diverter valve on many vehicles over the years. The most recent one was my 2002 L200. My car a has a pulse type valve and the flapper had failed, this let exhaust pass back into the large rubber hose coming from the air pump. This triggered the same code P0410.

 

I went through all of it this morning. I have a working diverter valve that letting air through. I still get the EVAP code though.

Do I clear the code first, or do I fix the problem and then it goes away on is own?

BTW, I have the Bluetooth scanner, so I can be looking at codes in real time.

 

What is your EVAP code? P0410 is a secondary air injection code.

 

That's my mistake. It's a P0410 code. I just pinpointed a lazy upstream O2 sensor.

 

Still confused. You are still saying p0410 the same as Andy

 

derF, you're sharp. I wouldn't have caught that. I didn't catch that. Many thanks for your thoughtful attention.

My Car Scanner still shows an emissions EVAP test incomplete. I had been equating that to the P0410 code I had just started to receive. Now I see that they're two different animals.

I've since diagnosed a bad upstream O2 sensor and have a part on order. That is what I'm currently assigning as the cause of the P0410 code… which is not the emissions EVAP test which is incomplete.

I'm waiting on the O2 replacement, after which I'm going to reset the emissions codes and see if the unfinished EVAP test can complete. I understand that that reset of the emissions tests quickens the clearing of the code following the repair of whatever it is that's causing it. I'm hoping the replacement O2 sensor will be the ticket.

 

Just don't use a Bosch