new temp sensor and more fun
 

:DHere's a big thank you to those who provided answers for the starting/sensor problem with my SL. I happy to report that the check engine light is off and she starts everytime I turn the key. yay! :D

now her idle is low, she runs rough, is missing, and she tries to die and actually did die a couple times during a short ride to the cul-de-sac and back to driveway. :confused:

but at least she starts now, every time.:cool:

I will be grateful for any help or information.

Might be time for a tune up. New plugs, wires and PCV valve along with another air filter and throttle body cleaning. I'd also recommend a bottle of Techron fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank. Do you know the last time a tune up was done? If not too long ago, pull the plugs and check them for fouling. The bad ECTS could have caused that to happen.

hi, thank you for response. I changed plugs, plug wires, and pc within last week. what is ECTS? To answer a past question, after all work done to get her operating reasonable well, I plan to ask $1000 obo. any thoughts? I do have an extra part (right front axle) and Haynes manual. plus I'll have a printout of current codes if any.

what is a good way to clearn throttle body? And I replaced air filter too.

The ECTS is the electronic coolant temperature sensor that we told you to replace. It's screwed into the cylinder head on the drivers side of the engine. I thought you'd replaced that already. If not, you really need to do so. As for cleaning the throttle body, I just get a can of throttle body cleaner (NOT CARB CLEANER) from a local auto parts store and follow the directions on the can. Usually, remove the air hose leading into the throttle body and with the engine running, spray some in until it looks clean. I actually removed the throttle body on the last SC I had and took it apart and cleaned it. And old toothbrush works pretty good along with the throttle body spray. It may sound complicated, but it's really not. Where are you located? My son is looking for a dependable car. Anywhere near central Florida?

Good running cars sell pretty fast in the $1000 range. I sold my lw300 on the second day. Ask a couple hundred more than you really want and people love to deal.

it's probably trying to relearn where the idle is supposed to be now that it can run that low (as designed) . If it is a true SL, SOHC 5 spd idle I think is 750-850 ish (too lazy to go open the manual).

I just cleaned the EGR on my 97SC2 and the idling conditions are sufficiently different such that the PCM is yet to completely determine the most stable running conditions within the predefined idle rpm range.

Let it idle in the driveway for 20 min. Then take it for a drive with a bunch of stop signs. At night so no one is behind you. Come to full stops and wait for the rpms to wind all the way down. Once it is pretty close to stable, you shouldn't really have any issues. If it were truly misfiring, it would turn on the SES light and be flashing while misfiring. If it is stumbling and stalling, it may be more that the PCM is trying to push the idle too low in its search for nirvana.

this is great information! thank you so very much. looks like I'm going on a ride tonight.

I wouldn't rule out an intake manifold gasket either, but check the simple stuff first.

D !!!! Good to hear from you!

well, after I let her idle for about 10 min, I took her for a drive. she is operating smoothly. thank you for everyone's help here.

One more question, what is that plastic thing that the airfilter assembly is attached to? it's in the front of the engine and there is a hose going from this part, into the airfilter assemby.

The incoming air is collected in the airbox from nominally outside air and then goes through the air filter.

Designers exploit a property of air cavities known as Helmholtz resonance. Flow through the airbox is optimal at its resonance frequency, which depends on airbox volume and the inlet area and length of the snorkel. The resonance is typically chosen to be at a medium speed where torque otherwise drops

You still didn't tell us where you're located. At least let us know if you decide to sell the car. It's only fair that we get first dibs on it if you do! I'd love to have a Saturn again.

baire702 location
 

hello, I am located in Waukesha, WI. I am taking the advice I received here and am planning on listing her for $1200 OBO.

Monday she goes to our local car doctor, D&T Automotive Specialists,

https://www.facebook.com/DTautowisconsin/ .

She's going to have her oil changed (Mobil 1) and filter replaced (Wix), coolant drained and replaced, thermostat replaced, both radiator hoses replaced, fuel filter replaced, and exhaust patched. I will write a list of whatever else she needs for the new owner. She has 206,xxx miles on her, so I am sure there will be more parts to replace. I admit it here, I have negelected her in the 8 years I have had her.

If anyone has any ideas they have about asking price for this many miles, I'd love to hear them. I really like this car and would keep her if I didn't have such messed up feet that makes clutching painful. :(

Just been busy. I thought you all wrote me off for an idiot when I posted about my plugs being loose. Car has been running very well since.

I am aware of pulse tuned exhaust manifolds in the diesel world for increased turbo performance, but never heard of a resonance tuned intake before. I always thought it was a silencer of some sort.

Go with the Wix xp series. The xp series is designed for the full synthetic oil.

thank you for the suggestion Rob. I am using Mobile 1, fully synthetic oil. I can't wait to take her for a drive after this work is done. That will make it even more difficult to "rehome" her.

-Caryl

I had always been told the exact same thing -- that it was to get rid of some UNWANTED resonance that occurred while driving.

NOPE. Wikipedia to the rescue.
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