A hum?
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Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 14
A hum?
What would cause a humming noise when I'm driving? I had a control arm changed and all of a sudden I have a humming noise when I drive. The noise gets louder when I accelerate. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanx.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,387
From: Slightly off center
+1.
Outside chance it is a coincidence and wheel bearing has begun failing but more likely the toe (left/right forward pointing setting) is way off and you are "scrubbing" the tire, meaning you are dragging the tire down the road off-angle from straight (while it is also rotating).
I would get it checked ASAP as wear from improper toe alignment is nasty and will wreck a tire quickly.
Also, don't be surprised if the other front wheel is out of alignment as well; there is alot of tension stored up in that front sway bar, and when you free up one end by removing one LCA, even though the swaybar is held to the frame with bushings and u shaped caps, the other side may move slightly.
Find out if they took off the sway bar to release the tension. The fasteners that hold the sway bar to the frame are NOT designed to be reused per Chilton manual which is likely per Saturn FSM.
New bolts must be used to guarantee that they will grip properly and maintain the correct torque. I would find this out BEFORE getting it aligned as the replacement of the bolts, if needed, will likely affect the alignment a tad.
While you're at it, given your mileage, you might as well replace the sway bar bushings -- the new ones come with new fasteners. I bought mine on Amazon as it was cheaper than RockAuto when my 2 day free shipping (Prime) was factored in. Totally loosened up the steering as there was more stress on one side than the other, making the front very difficult to align and drive .
The part in the box was in an OEM GM bag
https://www.amazon.com/OES-Genuine-B...995+saturn+sl1
The red stuff on the bolts is loctite or something similar I believe --hence the reason the old bolts should not be reused
Outside chance it is a coincidence and wheel bearing has begun failing but more likely the toe (left/right forward pointing setting) is way off and you are "scrubbing" the tire, meaning you are dragging the tire down the road off-angle from straight (while it is also rotating).
I would get it checked ASAP as wear from improper toe alignment is nasty and will wreck a tire quickly.
Also, don't be surprised if the other front wheel is out of alignment as well; there is alot of tension stored up in that front sway bar, and when you free up one end by removing one LCA, even though the swaybar is held to the frame with bushings and u shaped caps, the other side may move slightly.
Find out if they took off the sway bar to release the tension. The fasteners that hold the sway bar to the frame are NOT designed to be reused per Chilton manual which is likely per Saturn FSM.
New bolts must be used to guarantee that they will grip properly and maintain the correct torque. I would find this out BEFORE getting it aligned as the replacement of the bolts, if needed, will likely affect the alignment a tad.
While you're at it, given your mileage, you might as well replace the sway bar bushings -- the new ones come with new fasteners. I bought mine on Amazon as it was cheaper than RockAuto when my 2 day free shipping (Prime) was factored in. Totally loosened up the steering as there was more stress on one side than the other, making the front very difficult to align and drive .
The part in the box was in an OEM GM bag
https://www.amazon.com/OES-Genuine-B...995+saturn+sl1
The red stuff on the bolts is loctite or something similar I believe --hence the reason the old bolts should not be reused
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 14
+1.
Outside chance it is a coincidence and wheel bearing has begun failing but more likely the toe (left/right forward pointing setting) is way off and you are "scrubbing" the tire, meaning you are dragging the tire down the road off-angle from straight (while it is also rotating).
I would get it checked ASAP as wear from improper toe alignment is nasty and will wreck a tire quickly.
Also, don't be surprised if the other front wheel is out of alignment as well; there is alot of tension stored up in that front sway bar, and when you free up one end by removing one LCA, even though the swaybar is held to the frame with bushings and u shaped caps, the other side may move slightly.
Find out if they took off the sway bar to release the tension. The fasteners that hold the sway bar to the frame are NOT designed to be reused per Chilton manual which is likely per Saturn FSM.
New bolts must be used to guarantee that they will grip properly and maintain the correct torque. I would find this out BEFORE getting it aligned as the replacement of the bolts, if needed, will likely affect the alignment a tad.
While you're at it, given your mileage, you might as well replace the sway bar bushings -- the new ones come with new fasteners. I bought mine on Amazon as it was cheaper than RockAuto when my 2 day free shipping (Prime) was factored in. Totally loosened up the steering as there was more stress on one side than the other, making the front very difficult to align and drive .
The part in the box was in an OEM GM bag
https://www.amazon.com/OES-Genuine-B...995+saturn+sl1
The red stuff on the bolts is loctite or something similar I believe --hence the reason the old bolts should not be reused
Outside chance it is a coincidence and wheel bearing has begun failing but more likely the toe (left/right forward pointing setting) is way off and you are "scrubbing" the tire, meaning you are dragging the tire down the road off-angle from straight (while it is also rotating).
I would get it checked ASAP as wear from improper toe alignment is nasty and will wreck a tire quickly.
Also, don't be surprised if the other front wheel is out of alignment as well; there is alot of tension stored up in that front sway bar, and when you free up one end by removing one LCA, even though the swaybar is held to the frame with bushings and u shaped caps, the other side may move slightly.
Find out if they took off the sway bar to release the tension. The fasteners that hold the sway bar to the frame are NOT designed to be reused per Chilton manual which is likely per Saturn FSM.
New bolts must be used to guarantee that they will grip properly and maintain the correct torque. I would find this out BEFORE getting it aligned as the replacement of the bolts, if needed, will likely affect the alignment a tad.
While you're at it, given your mileage, you might as well replace the sway bar bushings -- the new ones come with new fasteners. I bought mine on Amazon as it was cheaper than RockAuto when my 2 day free shipping (Prime) was factored in. Totally loosened up the steering as there was more stress on one side than the other, making the front very difficult to align and drive .
The part in the box was in an OEM GM bag
https://www.amazon.com/OES-Genuine-B...995+saturn+sl1
The red stuff on the bolts is loctite or something similar I believe --hence the reason the old bolts should not be reused
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,387
From: Slightly off center
I have swapped out six LCAs over the years, never had a humm afterwards and a simple alignment is all that was needed.
May end up that the wheel bearing was finished off as a part of this and needs to be replaced. May have been worn goofy already and putting it back where it belongs makes it vibrate and therefore require replacement.
I used OEM AC Delco parts for all LCAs. The wrong length too short or too long will most definitely pull or push from below and cause all kinds of camber issues and might be enough to distort the wheel bearing. Would need to be a whole lotta force.
May end up that the wheel bearing was finished off as a part of this and needs to be replaced. May have been worn goofy already and putting it back where it belongs makes it vibrate and therefore require replacement.
I used OEM AC Delco parts for all LCAs. The wrong length too short or too long will most definitely pull or push from below and cause all kinds of camber issues and might be enough to distort the wheel bearing. Would need to be a whole lotta force.
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