HELP!!! 95SL1 New here, new to standard transmissions.
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From: Slightly off center
Immediately reversed up a hill to gain potential energy to pop the clutch forward which occurred successfully. Already stated vehicle runs with decreased MPG.
Why the redundant questions?
Why the redundant questions?
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,410
From: Slightly off center
Let's focus on likely results and solutions.
SInce there are no synchronizing gears (synchros) for reverse like the forward gears, you basically ground two gears together when they were not both spinning at a speed where the teeth would mesh.
However, you were able to
What are your other issus w the vehicle? All of them please.
The text below is to a post that explains how to pull obd 1 codes.
Use the paper clip to short the two pins in the upper right corner of your obd1 port. Keep them connected. Then switch your key to the on position. Your check engine light should blink once then twice, giving you code 12 telling you you are in diagnostics mode. It will do this three times. Then, if you have any codes, it won't blink however many times for the 10ths digit, then the ones digit for a code. With a pause in between. So code 21 would display 2 blinks, pause 1 blink long pause (same thing two more times for that code, etc. Sequence will end with code 12 a total of three times to signify the end of the display of stored codes.
SInce there are no synchronizing gears (synchros) for reverse like the forward gears, you basically ground two gears together when they were not both spinning at a speed where the teeth would mesh.
However, you were able to
- Pop the clutch moving forward
- Drive the car afterward
What are your other issus w the vehicle? All of them please.
The text below is to a post that explains how to pull obd 1 codes.
Use the paper clip to short the two pins in the upper right corner of your obd1 port. Keep them connected. Then switch your key to the on position. Your check engine light should blink once then twice, giving you code 12 telling you you are in diagnostics mode. It will do this three times. Then, if you have any codes, it won't blink however many times for the 10ths digit, then the ones digit for a code. With a pause in between. So code 21 would display 2 blinks, pause 1 blink long pause (same thing two more times for that code, etc. Sequence will end with code 12 a total of three times to signify the end of the display of stored codes.
Last edited by derf; Oct 24, 2024 at 09:57 PM.
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I was having issues a while ago with my ects (the one that does the temp reading, not the other almost identical one that sends it to my dash) i had it changed several times, 3-4. The first time i had it replaced, my coolant system didnt work, ie. No fan to the radiator and regular overheating unless running the heater.. so we replaced it again, and now it runs constantly. Replaced it again, and it is the same thing, constantly running. Still have a check engine light.
• replaced thermostat
• replaced waterpump
no change.
I noticed on the other sensor that there is a short in the wiring, but my dash reading still reads temps correctly, as far as i know.
• replaced thermostat
• replaced waterpump
no change.
I noticed on the other sensor that there is a short in the wiring, but my dash reading still reads temps correctly, as far as i know.
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Joined: Oct 2024
Posts: 37
Not sure if it burns oil, but it definitely leaks oil.
p.s my certified mechanic ran a head test to make sure my head gaskets were good, they were.
other things ive had done within my ownership:
•alternator replacement
• * it was either the TPS or EGR sensor* some sort of throttle sensor on the plastic mount on the engine near the outtake ( ive no clue what it was called, was before i started paying more attention)
cv joint replacement
ball joint? Front end
tie rod arms
aligned when bought.
spark plugs replaced in feb- or march
recent oil/filter change with air filter replaced.
p.s my certified mechanic ran a head test to make sure my head gaskets were good, they were.
other things ive had done within my ownership:
•alternator replacement
• * it was either the TPS or EGR sensor* some sort of throttle sensor on the plastic mount on the engine near the outtake ( ive no clue what it was called, was before i started paying more attention)
cv joint replacement
ball joint? Front end
tie rod arms
aligned when bought.
spark plugs replaced in feb- or march
recent oil/filter change with air filter replaced.
Last edited by oldnewbie; Oct 24, 2024 at 10:35 PM.
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Member
Joined: Oct 2024
Posts: 37
Let's focus on likely results and solutions.
SInce there are no synchronizing gears (synchros) for reverse like the forward gears, you basically ground two gears together when they were not both spinning at a speed where the teeth would mesh.
However, you were able to
What are your other issus w the vehicle? All of them please.
The text below is to a post that explains how to pull obd 1 codes.
Use the paper clip to short the two pins in the upper right corner of your obd1 port. Keep them connected. Then switch your key to the on position. Your check engine light should blink once then twice, giving you code 12 telling you you are in diagnostics mode. It will do this three times. Then, if you have any codes, it won't blink however many times for the 10ths digit, then the ones digit for a code. With a pause in between. So code 21 would display 2 blinks, pause 1 blink long pause (same thing two more times for that code, etc. Sequence will end with code 12 a total of three times to signify the end of the display of stored codes.
SInce there are no synchronizing gears (synchros) for reverse like the forward gears, you basically ground two gears together when they were not both spinning at a speed where the teeth would mesh.
However, you were able to
- Pop the clutch moving forward
- Drive the car afterward
What are your other issus w the vehicle? All of them please.
The text below is to a post that explains how to pull obd 1 codes.
Use the paper clip to short the two pins in the upper right corner of your obd1 port. Keep them connected. Then switch your key to the on position. Your check engine light should blink once then twice, giving you code 12 telling you you are in diagnostics mode. It will do this three times. Then, if you have any codes, it won't blink however many times for the 10ths digit, then the ones digit for a code. With a pause in between. So code 21 would display 2 blinks, pause 1 blink long pause (same thing two more times for that code, etc. Sequence will end with code 12 a total of three times to signify the end of the display of stored codes.
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,410
From: Slightly off center
Are you buying your ECTS devices from AutoZone and or O'Reilly and the like? They are crap if you haven't figured that out by now.
Measure the resistance ac ross the two terminals of the ECTS before you put it in. Post the value here.
When the ECTS fails,, If it fails open circuit then it is like a broken resistor and you will measure infinite resistance or a very high resistance if it is not completely broken electrically.
When the ECTS fails shorted, the resistance reads extremely low, The PCM believes the engine is incredibly hot and turns the fan on. If it truly fails shorted with a resistance of zero, the PCM goes into failsafe mode and tells the fan to turn on and stay on until the situation is corrected.
Sounds to me more like you have a damaged wire or a damaged connector at the sensor itself where the two leads or two pins are contacting each other intermittently. I would replace the connector pigtail. Go to RockAuto and get a decent ECTS. Like Delphi.
Also, inspect the wiring of those two leads all the way from the sensor to the PCM. They may be chafed in the same location and then occasionally the bare areas are both touching each other.
If you still have the ECTS in the vehicle that keeps the fan running constantly, remove the squeeze connector and measure the resistance across the ECTS pins. Make sure you are touching only the pins and not the rest of the ECTS or you will get an inaccurate reading.
Measure the resistance ac ross the two terminals of the ECTS before you put it in. Post the value here.
When the ECTS fails,, If it fails open circuit then it is like a broken resistor and you will measure infinite resistance or a very high resistance if it is not completely broken electrically.
When the ECTS fails shorted, the resistance reads extremely low, The PCM believes the engine is incredibly hot and turns the fan on. If it truly fails shorted with a resistance of zero, the PCM goes into failsafe mode and tells the fan to turn on and stay on until the situation is corrected.
Sounds to me more like you have a damaged wire or a damaged connector at the sensor itself where the two leads or two pins are contacting each other intermittently. I would replace the connector pigtail. Go to RockAuto and get a decent ECTS. Like Delphi.
Also, inspect the wiring of those two leads all the way from the sensor to the PCM. They may be chafed in the same location and then occasionally the bare areas are both touching each other.
If you still have the ECTS in the vehicle that keeps the fan running constantly, remove the squeeze connector and measure the resistance across the ECTS pins. Make sure you are touching only the pins and not the rest of the ECTS or you will get an inaccurate reading.
Last edited by derf; Nov 2, 2024 at 10:15 PM.
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Member
Joined: Oct 2024
Posts: 37
no voltmeter, too broke to buy the tools, although a smart person would, and i may eventually end up doing so, as affording a whole other car is wayyy out of my league.
i think i have the ects before this one floating around my car and this one currently in my engine.
is rock auto the online website?