Fuel pump test available?
#1
Recently my 1995 SC1 simply stopped running while I was traveling at 45 mph. The vehicle has always started and ran fine, but after it died, I coasted into a parking lot and tried to restart it, but it cranked and never turned over. Had it towed (was out of hometown) and shop said it was the fuel pump. After having it replaced, the car ran fine that day, but would not start again the next morning. As a precaution against getting totally screwed by the shop (the bill was much more than the estimate I received when I called for the tow), I asked for the old fuel pump and took it home with me in case the problem wasn''''t fixed - which it does not seem to be. Which leads to my actual question... is there a good, accurate test that can be done to determine if the fuel pump that I replaced is good? If so, I plan to take whatever action to get back most or all of the money I spent if the fuel pump replacement was unnecessary. Thanks for any input.
Edited by: sw2cam
Edited by: sw2cam
#2
Well ... normally the output of the fuel pump (for your vehicle) should be close to 30psi at idle, but since you cannot even get the engine running, I do not know how much help that information will be to you.
Here is a test to try ... have someone sit in the car, and turn the key to RUN. You open the gas cap and listen carefully. Have them turn the key to START, then back to RUN. You should be able to hear the fuel pump run. If not, then possibly the FPUMP fuse is blown on the Instrument Panel Fuse Block (10amp fuse), or the fuel pump relay (also on the IPFB) has failed or you have a bad connection in the wiring going to the fuel pump.
Good luck ...
Here is a test to try ... have someone sit in the car, and turn the key to RUN. You open the gas cap and listen carefully. Have them turn the key to START, then back to RUN. You should be able to hear the fuel pump run. If not, then possibly the FPUMP fuse is blown on the Instrument Panel Fuse Block (10amp fuse), or the fuel pump relay (also on the IPFB) has failed or you have a bad connection in the wiring going to the fuel pump.
Good luck ...
#3
I don''t think my question was clear enough - sorry. The fuel pump is no longer in the vehicle. It has a new one. My goal is to find out if the original one was still good and replaced when it didn''t have to be. Is there an easy way to test the pump outside the tank without damaging it? I''m disputing the need for this repair with the shop that did it and the owner is claiming it''s very difficult and often inaccurate to test a fuel pump outside the car. Thanks again for any help.
#6
sounds like crank position sensor flaking out and then dying. Bad CPS = no spark = no run.
Suggest CPS replacement if this fixes your issues you can be reasonably sure the original fuel pump was not the issue.
Suggest CPS replacement if this fixes your issues you can be reasonably sure the original fuel pump was not the issue.
#7
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I''m having a similar problem. What is a crank position sensor? And where is it? Thanks
#8
Originally Posted by stevew15
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I''''''''m having a similar problem. What is a crank position sensor? And where is it? Thanks
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I''''''''m having a similar problem. What is a crank position sensor? And where is it? Thanks
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fv3z6Jjbs1w
CPS check:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUMGFnK29B8
CPS location:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKb_TTQo0J4
Replacement of CPS:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVTFFOwqNZM
Start by replacing the ECTS. Much more likely to fail than the CPS.
Edited by: RC1488
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