Recently purchased the car and knew the exhaust needed attention. Upon actually getting under the car and seeing everything that has been hacked and back yard fixed im just sitting there saying wtf? Front pipe off the manifold Cat might be off a saturn but not my model. That pipe is welded to what seems to be the OE Cat. The 3 bolt flange for the front pipe to intermediate has been welded and leaking now. Intermediate pipe had broke patched and now broke again. Heat shield worm clamped to the rear section of exhaust. Worm clamp used as a hanger for the intermediate pipe and the kicker the front hanger that use to be a piece of round stock has been replaced with a open end box end wrench going rubber hanger to hanger.

So the rear question is where does everyone get their exhaust from? Ive seen full converter back systems on ebay for 370 shipped (Cheapest) which comes with the rear davico cat. All other parts stores range from 450-550.

Its a 600 dollar winter car and well really not looking to swap a whole exhaust onto it but might be cost effective to do so.

If it were you what would you do?

 

I have a 97 sc2 which is pre "manifold Cat" era.

It will certainly be a lot cleaner to completely start over from the manifold back with known good intact status of everything, but will it be cheaper to piece it together? Lets find out...

I'll use Rockauto.com which is where I almost exclusively get my parts, as do many others. And partstrain....We'll see how it turns out.......

00 SL1:
1)front cat. Only thing I can find are combo exhaust manifold/front cat combos (welded), and they seem to be about $400. Yikes.

2)post Front cat + flex + center cat: DAVICO MANUFACTURING 171198 C.A.R.B. Approved $287.79

3}Resonator: Walker 56017 Resonator (from partstrain.com) $83.26 (weld to muffler)

4)Muffler: WALKER 18943 Walker SoundFX Direct Fit Muffler $43.79

5)Muffler Strap: WALKER 36376 $9.34

6)Hangers/Insulators (2) WALKER 35119 Walker Exhaust System Insulator 1.89x2= $3.78

7)Flange gasket, manifold (2, one pre front cat, one post front cat):
WALKER 31559 $4.11 x 2 =$8.22

8)Flange gasket post center cat: WALKER 31553 $3.59

9)2 1/4" Clamp at center cat: WALKER 35336 U Bolt Clamp; 3/8" U Bolt, 11 Gauge Saddle $1.22 (depending on mix n match of vendors)

10)1 3/4" Clamp Int. Pipe to Muffler: WALKER 35343 U Bolt Clamp; Heavy Duty Clamp; 11 Gauge Saddle $0.99

Totals out to $841.98 in parts + a little more for the gaskets I've missed.
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I'm sure you could find less expensive parts; I kinda use rockauto as a quasi quality gauge, Not always correct, but I find their lowest end offering of a part is the most expensive you can get at autozone, only at 20% less.
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If you are able to slip through with the front piping situation, then you're down to $442 (coincidence), which ia in line which is on the low end of the range you quoted for parts stores.

Personally, If I can purchase something somewhere other than Ebay, I do.
I have found that, just like the rest of life, you usually get what you pay for. If the kit sellers are unauthorized resellers of a product w a 5 yr/50K warranty, the manufacturer will often hide behind that and void the warranty.

Most of the parts I was coming up w were Walker--rockauto must be a heavy distributor. The only piece that wouldn't be Walker would be the Davico section with the C.A.R.B. approved cat. But I believe it is compatible w the Davico section in terms of flange flange and welded connections. If you do decide to take the Walker route, get the Walker Quietflow. I've had it on two sc2's and it sounds nice. Won't sound the same on an SL1, but......

If you decide you want a bit more of a sporty sound, there are quite a few folks on here that can give you all kinds of advice, some of which will be valid.

But I thought that kinda stuff was outlawed in Cali (now)

 

I'd go to the junkyard and take as much as possible off a junker. Might have to buy a cat con, but I'd just get a universal one and have it welded on.

 

The approach investigated above (piecemeal full replacement) is shiny and pretty (for a week) -- and costs more . But will last for a good long while without rekluging sections just trying to put in the correct parts every time some component goes south.


Plus I thought C.A.R.B only allows specifics substitutions on a critical part by car by car/part by part basis --though I have not looked this up to confirm whether I am correct or not.

I'm sure BigShoes will set the record straight

 

I'm curious too... I ordered all the major components to re-do the exhaust system on an L series for about $150, through Summit Racing... That was a flex joint, hi flow cat, resonator(45" long too), and Thrush turbo muffler, all sized for 2.25 inch pipe... I need to do that for my Malibu, as I'm not happy with the stock exhaust system... It started with a resonator delete, and I put the resonator I bought in, but the stock pipe is 1 7/8" or some crap like that, so the difference in size was filled with weld.. Not pretty, and certainly not good for flow

 

Well after trying to figure out what to do with this hack job of a exhaust is well F it. I finished it off like it was started and rigged it on there. Took a piece of flex pipe that was 1 7/8 ID and connected the 2 sections. Honestly not the prettiest fix but it works. After weighing what it would cost to do it correctly and coming to terms what this car is intended for im not really interested in putting more into the car that what I purchased it for. Heck it was a 600 dollar car with the sole purpose of allowing me to park my CTS V for the winter. Along with not spending over 100 bucks on gas.

 

So it's more of a math equation for you at this point. Cost of car+licence+Tax+Reg+insurance+repairs- fuel cost-wear & tear on cts= total value. I think if this is a 1 winter car you've made the right choice. If you plan on keeping it for next winter I'd search eBay in the warmer months and make purchases when you have extra cash. The car was $600 for a reason...It needs work. Fix it up a little if you find good prices on parts you could turn a profit when you dump the car on a sale or it'll be winter ready next year or fix nothing and drive it into the ground and part it out. Pick the equation that works best for you. Happy travels and safe holidays to you.

 

Thats exactly where im at. Ill see how its running and cost of repairs it will need in the spring (even though it still feels like it). No point in dumping more into it if it doesnt even last the winter.

 

Is this how it works? Could you explain it briefly?

Much appreciated

 

Cats have not been touched. Just reconnected the exhaust.