Tried the flooded start. Mash the pedal to the floor crank for about 10-15 seconds. Nothing. Tried it about 3 seperate times. Nothing. Battery got weak hooked up jumpers. After one of the tries, tried cranking without touching pedal and it got really close to running with the key still turned. Let go of key and it sputtered a few times and died. Went to check connection on the ECTS and snapped of the end of the sensor. Ill repalce and see if that helps.

So if the car was pulled into a warm shop, plugs pulled to dry cylinders, left over night, plugs replaced and it fired up point to ECTS? I was looking through notes from a few years ago and that was another time it did this 3 years ago. At that time it was about 20 below outside when it happened. So extreme temp again. Fyi...today 18 degrees out

 

Per my previous post, yes ECTS and connector w pigtail replacement is next step. I was trying to avoid you spending money you didn't need toi.

Get the ECTS and connector pigtail via GM source, either in person or from GM online parts store. I can't remember if this is an AC Delco or Delphi part but the 2nd design part numbers are all over the net. I use rockauto.com for some parts and also to ensure fitment. 1991-2002 s cars all used the same sensor. Technically the air temp sensor in the air intake ducting is the same part nut is the first Generation POS that fails. Use it only if you are dead broke. It may throw a code for IAT out of range.

I'm going to bet the ECTS in there is not from GM. Probably Autozone or similar. I am NOT criticizing; simply pointing out that what you received was a general purpose temp sensor with a different R vs temp response, one desighed to cover 17 models in a half *** manner. Usually poorly made. The current sensor may have went open circuit or the contacts on the connector were all gummed up with corrosion

There are a few parts on S cars that you cannot cheap out on long term -- the ECTS is one of them, It's reading is weaved into control of many systems in the car..
The only way to learn this is to have your type of experiences, unfortunately.

All part of the learning curve in understanding your Saturn under the hood. The orig may not fail for 10 years, and a POS replacement may be close enough to last 5 years,
You obviously are mechanically and theoreticlally inclined. As the forum regulars will attest to, we've addressed the ECTS issue many many times, though the presenting symptoms are not always the same.
I always try to solve the problem without throwing parts at it. Hence the starting attempt.

Since you have previous ECTS issues, not surprised, especially if the ECTS was from Autozone. The different R vs T behavior will bite you in the *** at the higher and lower ends as the slope is not right for the S cars and therefore the air/fuel mix is just wrong.

When you get this running, run a bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner through the system to clean out your insjectors,

 

Ordered new ETCS and plug. Tried starting it last weekend. Tried about 3 4 times. It almost started but after a few spits and sputters after letting go of the key it would not continue to run. Ill change the ETCS and maybe the plugs and see what I get.

 

Don't half-*** it on the pig tail change. Make sure you solder the connections and seal them with some heat shrink. I've seen people splice wires by just twisting them together and putting electrical tape on them. Please don't do that.

 

I use to own a car audio installation company years ago. I'm a pro at low voltage wiring and take no shortcuts. thanks.

 

Any nice clean bass 6/6,5" left in the basement?

 

Installed new ECTS yesterday with no luck. Checked all fuses -GOOD. Rechecked fuel pressure at rail - 42 PSI.

Recap - starts and runs when starting fluid is used, then dies after you stop the starting fluid.

Here is a video from yesterday of what it does:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wp3xppo4sj...35810.mp4?dl=0

 

Pull te plugs and clean and recheck gap is .040. Good old fashioned stock OEM copper plugs need to be in there ultimately but whatever you have is sparking so we'll deal with that later

Try to start 1 time with a 5 or 6-second crank. No ether just crank.

Pull all plugs. If the plugs are not wet with fuel, your injectors are either clogged or are not being told to open/close.
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Per chance, what is the security light doing when you crank and after you stop cranking?
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PASSLOCK issue is a longshot but I believe it kills both fuel AND spark. If you're getting it to run with ether, then it doesn't fit PASSLOCK problem very well. Just typing out loud.

You said the fuel pressure was 42 psi, When? The spec when IDLING is 40-55. IS it 42 when running on ether?

Can you hear the fuel pump priming at each transition from key off to key on? runs for about 3 sec, then shuts off.

Perhaps you have water in your gas, and your gas line froze or water gas/water mixture was sitting in the injectors froze. Or just bad gas entirely.

Is your air filter clogged up? Are you starving the engine of air? Remove all the ducting and spray the ether directly into the throttle body..

 

Any updates?

 

Any progress