Anyone know what the problem might be if your RPM gauge is stuck all the way to the right past the maximum RPM's?

 

Not being sarcastic, but it's stuck.

How did it get past the redline RPM, and what else was happening at the exact same time in terms of driving, other dash gauges going wonky, etc.?

There are sensors that feed the dash gauges and then there are electronics on the back of the dash that convert those signals into voltages that drive the gauges.

If it is more than one gauge acting up, we track it down one way. If it is only that gauge, we track it down another. Is there anything else RPM related with the vehicle that doesn't seem right?

 

Hi Jerk, It's been pegged like this picture shows for years now. All I can recall before my tachometer completely died or pegged like this was there was a time or 2 where the RPM's would only read about half of what it should be. Like if you was doing 3000 rpm's, it would only show as 1500. I recall there was a time when it didn't work, and then it started working again. And then one day I just noticed it was pegged to max. Thought I'd ask to see if anybody else experienced this same issue? Thanks (all other gauges seem to be working fine)

 

I would try another cluster, if that fixes it then swap the tach and circuit board.

 

Andy,

It's a single circuit board for the entire cluster..

So if it's a cluster swap, it's a full cluster swap. I believe you can remove the odometer and swap it over since it can be opened to replace the 10ths gear that breaks. At least you can access the odometer.

For as far as it has gone, it looks as though it is physically stuck where the front plastic meets the back of the cluster.

The entire cluster comes out as one. You can actually remove the plastic and the very gently see if you can unstick it. Use a very thin tool, not your finger or you will break it / bend it.

I believe the same sensor that feeds the electronics on the back of the instrument cluster also feeds the tach so if it's not physical stock then it is an electronics issue.

 

If you pull the cluster, you might as well replace all the bulbs. Doesn't cost much.

 

Thanks for the help. Sorry I had a major typo or autocorrect saying "Hi Jerk". I am curious to find out if the plastic covering the gauges is easily removable without having to pull the dash out. I'll be looking for a vid on how to remove the gauge cluster.

 

@derf You mentioned the plastic coming off. Do you know if its glued on? The plastic cover in front of the gauges Thanks.

 

You have to pull the cluster in order to remove the front plastic.

The process is well documented. I've done it a few times. Just make sure you remember to remove the fastener at the top center of the trim in front of the whole cluster. Then I think there are a few screws holding the cluster to the car.

You have to drop the steering column down. It's easiest to do while actually sitting in the driver's seat. It's a bit weighty. Some people claim they can pull it without doing this. It takes 5 minutes and makes it much easier. Be gentle with the trim. It's almost 30 years old and the plastic is dry rotted.

Do not force anything.

If you rebulb the dash, buy the bulbs from RockAuto. They are 10 times the cost each if you buy them at AutoZone and that is not an exaggeration. Let me know if you're going to do this and I will PM you some info on how many of which bulbs.

If you open the cluster, be sure to not touch anything with your fingers as there will be no way to remove the grease from your hands from the surfaces. Or some plastic gloves. I think the front plastic is just held on by a couple of screws. Again remember everything is 30 year old plastic and simply take your time. It shouldn't be too Dusty in there because it's sealed but cleaning the inside of the plastic is worth it.

I've been called much worse on the forum in close to 20 years as a mod which is ridiculous but seems to be true.

We all take shots at each other anyway (regulars)

The true a holes just get banned.

Once you free up the cluster, don't trust yank it out. There's a connector on the back if I remember correctly that connects to the traces on the circuit board. It's like 10 contacts wide. Do not force this connector. Figure out how it's held on sorry I can't remember and slowly rock it back and forth side to aside to get a loose. It's likely never been removed since it left the assembly line. When you put it back, if you get a check engine light, it's likely that the connector is not seated quite right. I think it comes up as a quad driver fault which is a code 23 or something close. Not trying to be lazy but apparently I'm being lazy. If you need any help, let me know the p.m. so we don't have to torture the rest of the forum. I have a post on another forum with the bulb count and type for a 97 SC2. It will be very close, possibly the same.

Blah blah blah
Don't be afraid to ask questions. It's the only way you learn things in life. Life includes Saturns if you're here on this forum.

Peace

Derf

PS. Be gentle with the plastic trim.

 

Small update. I didn't realize the RPM needle actually resets to the left every time you kill the ignition. So the needle goes to right max when you turn the key on. We (my Dad & I) spotted some caked up oil around some wires from the valve cover gasket leaking oil previously, and we think.. hope, we just need to clean it up and make sure all the connections are good there. Anyways fingers crossed.