2001 SL1 1.9 SOHC Engine Rebuild
#11
I'm only attempting to rebuild this engine because it was "dead" anyway. Figured I couldn't make it any worse that it was. So I'm out a few bucks for parts but the learning experience is priceless.
#12
Some new pics. First two are the empty engine bay. Notice the awesome transmission support tool. The remainder are pics of the front and side of the engine with the timing chain cover now installed along with the pulleys and the water pump. The brackets for hoisting the engine are also in place so next task is to put the engine back on the hoist so that I can put the flywheel (flex plate) on the back work on the bottom of the engine to install the oil pump screen and the oil pan.
Getting close to dropping it back in the car. I also replaced the heater core while I had easy access to the firewall connections. You'll also see a new heater pipe that runs from the heater core connection on the firewall, along the right fender to the antifreeze tank. I crushed one end of this pipe while attempting to take a heater hose off so i opted for a new one rather than trying to straighten out the pipe and fight leaks.
So I'm making progress, slow as it may be.
One place where I'm going to have to not follow the repair manual.... torque of the front crankshaft bolt is something like 157 ft-lb. My torque wrench only goes to 75 ft-lbs. So that bolt will just have to be as tight as I can get it with my 18" cheater bar.
Getting close to dropping it back in the car. I also replaced the heater core while I had easy access to the firewall connections. You'll also see a new heater pipe that runs from the heater core connection on the firewall, along the right fender to the antifreeze tank. I crushed one end of this pipe while attempting to take a heater hose off so i opted for a new one rather than trying to straighten out the pipe and fight leaks.
So I'm making progress, slow as it may be.
One place where I'm going to have to not follow the repair manual.... torque of the front crankshaft bolt is something like 157 ft-lb. My torque wrench only goes to 75 ft-lbs. So that bolt will just have to be as tight as I can get it with my 18" cheater bar.
#13
You now know more about your car than 99% of all people. Shops will not be able to sell you something you don't need. I do this for a living and my wife just had her tires rotated on Friday. She came home with a $600 quote for new rear brakes, I don't think so! You are getting close, keep up the good work!
#15
There are greasy things that go putt putt and boom boom under the metal cover thingie. When I throw a wrench and hammer at it, it fixes itself. Pardon me while I go check my headlight fluid.
#17
Are you really supporting the tranny front with chicken wire and a Budweiser aluminum bat?
Must be a mechanical engineer to know that the hollow cylinder of the bat is actually stronger than a solid aluminum bar w regards to bending.....
In pic #2, I noticed he leftmost upper strut mount nut looks to be about 1/2 a ft lb too light. Be careful when tightening that you dont exceed the spec. If it is saturn issue, it will twist off right after the spec.
Also, if you've never changed the idler pulley or belt tensioner, if you're ever going to, now would be the time. Personally I have 251K on the originals w no issues, so if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Just saying you might want to replace some parts that are not defective with some new ones. Because you can. Watch out for the belt tensioners -- i think some of the aftermarkets are slightly too large and cause a problem. Do your homework if you proceed
Must be a mechanical engineer to know that the hollow cylinder of the bat is actually stronger than a solid aluminum bar w regards to bending.....
In pic #2, I noticed he leftmost upper strut mount nut looks to be about 1/2 a ft lb too light. Be careful when tightening that you dont exceed the spec. If it is saturn issue, it will twist off right after the spec.
Also, if you've never changed the idler pulley or belt tensioner, if you're ever going to, now would be the time. Personally I have 251K on the originals w no issues, so if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Just saying you might want to replace some parts that are not defective with some new ones. Because you can. Watch out for the belt tensioners -- i think some of the aftermarkets are slightly too large and cause a problem. Do your homework if you proceed
#19
Haven't posted anything recently regarding the engine rebuild but I will be adding some more photos soon. Dropped the engine back into the car yesterday and I learned some things NOT to do when rebuilding the engine that I will share with some new pics soon.
Thanks for all the words of encouragement. I sure hope this engine lives again when I get all the parts reinstalled.
Thanks for all the words of encouragement. I sure hope this engine lives again when I get all the parts reinstalled.
#20
You'll be just fine. As long as you labeled the wiring harness and know where everything plugs in, that is! LOL Oh, and make sure you put the drain plug back in the oil pan. I had an older neighbor once that rebuilt the 350 in his Cutlass and kept adding oil to it. He put in 5 to start and then checked the dipstick. Nothing on it. He put in 2 more. Not on dipstick. I tried to tell him what was wrong and he told me to shut the F up, that I was 14 and didn't know S about cars. Once he got the entire 12 quarts dumped in with nothing on the stick, I told him to look under the car and started laughing and went home. Dude was a douchebag!