Update - just to be sure, I checked all the ignition components, including the resistance of the spark plug wires, coil secondary windings and primary windings. My Chiltons is a little vague on these topics. It says 700-900 ohms on the primary windings but does not tell you how to test it. I checked the coils with them installed and removed from the module. All tests were within the same range on both coils and both sides of the module.

I am pretty sure it is not an ignition 'miss' I am feeling. The engine starts immediately, idles fine and doesn't miss or cut out at cruising speed. On flat ground or going downhill the 2-3 shift even works okay, it only acts up when you put it under load as I have mentioned.

I have read several reviews from customers who have bought reman valve bodies and they have said it cured their issues which are the same or very similar to mine, so I think I will take the plunge and purchase one.

 

Seems like the logical next step. Be sure to get it from a reputable source that has been vetted by other s car owners and has some type of warranty or return policy.

 

Installed a reman valve body today. I purchased one that had the SONNAX update with steel sleeve installed in the press reg valve bore. It has a lifetime warranty. I followed the re-learn instructions which involve a series of upshifts and downshifts. I am still not happy with the way it shifts. I think I read here somewhere that I may need to drive it about 100 miles to give the computer time to relearn? There is no one in my town who can re-program it. I drove about 25 or 30 miles today in a variety of speed zones from 35 - 55; then out on the freeway for about 6 miles at 75 mph.

It seems somewhat better, but still seems to "bump in" ; it seems I can feel it in all gears now to a varying degree. Could in be the input from the vehicle speed sensor? Or do I just need to drive it some more?

 

If the issue w the 2-3 shift no longer stands out among all the other shifts, I would likely say it probably needs some more miles for it to learn/adapt. Be sure to choose situations that involve everything from slow moving city traffic (many repetitive low gear shifting, as well as some spirited even-throttled on ramps to the highway (winding it up till it changes gears on its own---but with steady 3/4 throttle so that rate at which it hits the shift points is dictated by the vehicle, not by you.

 

I am going to try driving it as you suggested before I spend any more money on parts. I read some other threads posted here on the forum that said simply driving the car after repairs were made corrected the shifting issues.

I will let you know the result. Thanks for all your input.

 

Just thought I'd post an update. I drove my SL2 for several days back and forth to work after replacing the valve body with a Sonnax upgraded unit which includes a metal sleeve installed in the pressure regulator bore to keep it from wearing. The 2-3 shift seemed to improve so I took it out for a run down the highway. It ran like crap, cutting out and missing in all gears, BUT I could tell it wasn't a transmission issue, and when the check engine light started flashing, I had a pretty good idea what was wrong. A check with my OBDII reader when I got home confirmed my suspicions - "multiple/random misfire on all cylinders." I unbolted the catalytic converter and cut the pipe just behind the front hanger, gutted it, welded an exhaust nipple which fit inside the cat and over the pipe and reinstalled it. Now it runs great, has much more power and shifts like it should. Just wanted to add this as a word of caution, make sure you are not blaming the transmission for faulty ignition system, plugged catalytic converter etc. It could save you a lot of money.

 

Thanks for the update, glad to hear your car is running better.

 

Hi--I'm not good in forum etiquette, hope this is OK. I gave a 2000 SW2 with 250,000 K on it, replaced most sensors, new plugs, fuel filter, tranny oil &filter ( a bit overfull).It starts and runs great normally but on a steep hill the 3-2 downshift slips and very slow to engage.I tried to shift manually --not good I'm afraid this will wreck the tranny if I keep driving this way. Ideas, welcome--Thanks

 

There are shift solenoids located on the valve body. You can try replacing these first as I did. Unfortunately that did not solve my issue. What I read was that, in addition to the solenoids becoming weak, the shift valves bores can become worn which means having the valve body rebuilt with sleeves installed inside the bores. I did a lot of shopping, and was able to find a rebuilt valve body on eBay for under $200.00. It was easy to change, the valve body was actually located on the top side of the transmission. I removed the air box and ductwork and a few other small items to get to the transmission cover. Make sure not to let any dirt or debris fall inside. Its a good idea to powerwash the engine bay or get a bucket of hot soapy water and a scrub brush and clean the area thoroughly. Its been a few years since I did mine (I have since sold the car) so I don't remember all the details, but it was fairly simple. I had to do mine twice, at first I replaced the solenoid, then had to take it apart again to replace the entire valve body and I didn't have any major issues or difficulties doing it. Solenoid was fairly cheap - $46.44 with tax and shipping at Rock Auto - and even if you do end up replacing the valve body, new solenoids wouldn't be a bad idea anyway.

 

Read post 16 again and make sure it is not an engine issue before condemning the transmission. Restricted fuel or exhaust seem like a transmission problem sometimes because the heavy throttle causes the transmission to downshift when the engine cannot accelerate. How does it perform at light throttle? If the car runs fine at light throttle and only misbehaves at heavy throttle look at everything else first.