I was driving home and heard some kind clunking sound on bumps and turns. Got lot louder on final turn to get home and even when I tested to go out of driveway straight made loud klunk going over slight bump so didn't leave driveway.

The rear passenger wheel was kinda wobbly last I had it elevated, and in a quote a shop awhile badk they have listed:

Duralast Wheel Bearing/Hub
Assembly-Rear(front)
DL512002

Duralast Control Arm - Lower
CA2120

There was some wobbling of wheel in driver front

im a bit paranoid to drive it again to even go to repair shop now.

Is the control arm what I'm looking for? How difficult is it to replace this at home?

Btw was there some other saturn forum a few months ago that got taken down or something

 

Does it clunk when the front wheels go over the bump or when the rear wheels go over the bump?

 

The rear passenger is where sound comes from

 

When engine is cold, see if there is any play in the tail end of the exhaust system. Muffler straps rust through and the muffler can bang up against the underside of the car.

As for parts quoted

Control arms are only on front wheels. The ball joints are integral to the control arms, so if you feel slop in the front wheels, the ball joints may be worn out or the wheel bearings may be worn out. Or both.
Front bearings can be pressed out and pressed in.
Rear bearings are integral to the rear hub assembly so you must replace a rear hub assembly.

The above are my best guesses for what they would have indicated the parts you listed. Note they did not specify rear hub assemblies, so they must think those are ok.

Also, I don't know in what direction the slop is so it's hard for me to know what they saw.

 

If one is to replace the rear hub oneself is there any service manual or guide to do this?

Brought to differeng shop and they said trailing arm is broke on rear, and they want to replace both hubs. I'm guessing the clunking noise was the arm breaking?

I can see reason to replace the hub on the wobbly wheel but if the other wheel is not wobbling is there reason to replace that one? They said it made some "noise" while being spun but was stable

Also they trying charge 250 for each hub part isn't that way overpriced ? Quote from other place was 87 per hub part


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The muffler has already collapsed before so we had to restrap it ourselves 😂 thanks to Midwest rust

 

Do not drive with the a broken or disconnected trailing arm.
Make sure they can actually reattach it. Have them explain it to you while you are under the car. It is mounted in such a way that sometimes the actual melting point rusts off of the frame and there is nothing left to attach to.

That something you heard was the actual wheel banging around in the wheel well forwards and backwards because the trailing arm was no longer attached to the car at the other end so the wheel could move on an arc inward towards the front and back. Also when you went over bumps, you pushed the wheel up which moved the disconnected and of the trailing arm down away from the bottom of the car. Then when the wheel came down, the broken end smack into the underside of the vehicle. It is under tension right now so it is pinned to the bottom of the car but not attached.

Rather dangerous. Ask me how I know.

They probably hear the rear bearing on the other side making noise and since it's 32 years old You've gotten your money's worth.

It sounds like one price includes labor and one price does not.

 

Thanks for reply, also it's a 95 not a 93 sorry

Here is what the new shop wrote:

Right Rear Hub
Wheel Hub - Rear,w/ABS, Assembly [includes. wheel speed sensor, includes: bearing] x2 $221 each total: $442
. Trailing Arm x1 $71

Wheel Hub - Remove and Replace - Rear, both (not including alignment) $191
Trailing Arm - Remove and replace - one side (not including alignment) $122

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so it looks like they charge 191 for the labor of replacing the hubs. But each hub itself cost 221. But at other shop was $86 for each hub.

Could it be becaase its an ABS part they are buying? The abs hasn't worked for years, do you think its worth asking for a non ABS part?

I just dont understand why it's so much more cost at this place, unless they feel they can charge more because I'm stuck!

What would you do in this situatisituits very close to home but i wouldnt know how to replace hub without some kind of instructions,

Maybe I should have them replace the Arm but leave the hubs and do that elsewhere or myself?

edit: actually I see a richpin youtibe vid how to replace the trailing arm, doesn't seem too complicated! But i don't see a place to find instructions for replacing wheel hub,

 

I am having trouble seeing where it is broken though in these pictures, can you see the issue?

 

It looks like you may have a rotted out trailing arm mount on the passenger' s side. It appears there is a crack on the left of the inboard mounting bolt.... If those are rotted out - you have a parts car......

 

Parts and prices from RockAuto.com
Rear hub assembly with bearing: cheapest decent quality is




Trailing Arm

None on RockAuto

Brand TRQ about $40 each
Other decent brands up to 150 a pair equals too much.
Depending on how much you drive and a close inspection of the remaining trailing arm in the spot where the first one gave out, you might want to have both replaced now as it will save you the cost of another alignment if the other one breaks.

Place trying to charge you 225 a side for just the wheel hub plus bushing is high. But parts markup makes up for lower labor jobs. That's just the way it is, but 300% seems a bit much.

143 for a duralast trailing arm? Nope

I can't see you last post but I would recommend you get both rear hubs replaced and for the addl 40 to 70 get both trailing arms done + alignment.

You don't have to have it aligned at whatever shop you choose for the work.

As far as Joyce of mechanic, the first people didn't quote the trailing arm, so I'm assuming they completely missed it, in which case I would be inclined not to use them..

Second shop a bit unreasonable for parts markup.

I would get another opinion and quote or split the work between the other two shops but that becomes messy.

If the remaining trailing arm is an awesome shape then leave it alone. Chances are it's just as bad as the one that broke.