1994 SL 1.9 SOHC no start issue
 

I was driving on the interstate when my SL completely shut off. I replaced the injector, fuel filter, have perfect pressure to the rail, tested crank sensor and spark and they are all working fine. When i turn the key it cranks and cranks, if i floor it it will start for a second then die. I am at a dead end now, please help

is there a security light ?

You didn't say anything about the fuel pump. I'd rent a pressure tester from one of the local parts stores and check the pressure on it. Could be you've got either a bad fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump. Have you tried it with starting fluid?

Can hear the fuel pump run as it should. the fuel pressure at the port is perfect, tried spraying starting fluid didnt work. no security light

Sound like it may have jumped time.

The engine coolant temp sensor ( ECTS ) may have failed. Get an OEM replacement from local GM dealer, along with replacement electrical pigtail. Total cost about $50usd.

If you wish, disconnect connector on the ECTS first, and measure the resistance. Should be between 1000 and 5000 ohms. If not, replace it.

Ect is new as of two months...tested to be sure and is range. Fuel injector isspraying, it is the tbi model. Pulled throttle body cleaned it and the iac port. Starts on first click for a second then dies....after that its slow cranking till it builds up a pool of fuel seems like. Getting a timing light to see next. Also tested the tps and it is in range but i have a 22 code which is tps low circuit input. Circuit voltage for tps reads 4.98 specs from all data say 5v. Injector circuit tests at 11.98 specs from all data say 12v.

If anyone has any info on where timing check marks are and if i need to what are the timing marks for setting it. its the 1.9 vin 9 tbi ohc

compression is perfect......going on to test pcm

have power everywhere to all fuses and tested pcm plugs, all perfect voltage. took pcm apart and inspected circuit board. under the power port there is a 1inch by 1 inch square that looks like solder, on one end of that square looks like the solder heated up and collected to a bubble, upon further inspection all solder joints looked ok. on the top side of the board where all the processors? are i notice browning, its like the color of used oil a light brown almost burnt. i am not sure but does this mean i had a short and my mother board fried??? my neighbor is a computer geek but isnt home otherwise id pick his brain

pcm checks clean......now i have no fuel pressure at check port before regulator....i can hear the pump whine hear the relay click......12 volts to the injector i have already replaced the injector fuel pressure regulator or the diaphram they call the regulator and fuel filter, all fuses ar getting power could it be the sending unit is done or sock clogged???

Or the pump is no longer pumping even though the pump is humming it may not be pumping I realize this sounds like a stupid question but do you have gas in it.

filled her up ten minutes before she died.......and yes i am pushing the clutch all the way in when i turn the key :p

ok well i lost complete fuel pressure, replaced the whole pump assembly(yes sending unit and all) relay kicks new pump kicks and has fuel going to injector spraying a erfect downward jet.....still same issue, but it is getting to where it wants to run, still have to floor it to get it to start for a second (when i say second you cannot get one onethousand out before it dies) before when i didnt press the gas it dodnt want to start but now it sounds like it wants to start but still have to floor it to get it to start. tps is good so is map all vacuum lines are good timing as far as i can see is set....................someone please have something

Stupid question, I'm sure, but I'll ask it anyway. When's the last time you cleaned the throttle body?

Couple days ago. Cleaned iac port and the head on iac

I out of ideas except spark plugs and wires but that would be a long shot to have them all go bad at once

Remove the valve cover and watch the operation of the valves. Make sure they are opening enough, but if the compression is good, then they probably are, but I'd check. Last thing has to be timing. Yours is a lost spark ignition isn't it (two coils).

Did you check for spark on all four plugs?

when i checked spark i had to do it by myself...i could hear the spark

I am back to timing I agree with Keith pull the rocker arm cover and check and make sure the valves look to be opening up and check the timing at the same time check a repair manual and make sure the timing marks all line up

look at timing before but i did not see a mark for tdc on cam shaft....

i did rotate the engine by hand and saw movement in the valve train

I not sure where the are at would have to look it up

The reason you can't find timing marks to use a timing light on is because there aren't any. You can put your timing light away.

To check the timing, jack up the passenger side front wheel, support the car with a jack stand and remove the tire and the removable inner fender cover. Caution, there is a molded fastener on the inner fender cover that is not visible. After removing the visible fasteners and sliding tab A out of slot A (you will see what I am talking about when you get under there), gently tug around the bottom edge of the inner fender until you find the hidden fastener. Then use a flat tool to pry the inner fender from the frame rail at this point.

Added Note: You might get by with just removing tab A from slot A and bending the inner fender cover out of the way. This is located right behind the strut and just in front of the crank pulley.

On the front of the timing chain cover, there is a dimple at the 12 o'clock position. There is another dimple on the front of the crank pulley. Turn the crankshaft until the two marks line up at the 12 o'clock position.

Remove the valve cover. On the camshaft timing gear, to the right side just above the cover rail of the head, FRT should be be visible. It will be at about the 2 o'clock position on the cam gear, level with and just above the cover rail. If it is there, the timing is correct. If you don't see it, turn the crank 360 degrees and check again.

When you get through doing this and all is well, then I suggest that you get an old, but known good, spark plug. Close the gap to about .025", then one at a time, remove a spark plug wire, insert this test plug, then lay the plug on something metal, but in an area visible through the windshield and crank the engine and look for a visible spark. Do this at night so you can see it better.

I think you will find that one coil is producing a good spark at both wires and one isn't producing any spark at either wire. Your engine will run on three cylinders, badly of course, but it will not run on two cylinders, though it might catch for a second occasionally.

I removed the o2 sensor and it started without it screwed in and it ran.rough but it ran.... please explain

I also did screw it back in and it started a couple times......

Tested egr vacuum.....when vacuum is put on it leaks down and closes

Wow, that sounds like your cat went into meltdown. Had that happen to me once. If you have a precat (one built into the exhaust manifold, the manifold will have to be replaced.

You didn't hear this from me, but if you don't live in an area that does smog checks, you can just remove the exhaust manifold and open up the precat with a screwdriver, then put it back on.

I can feel air coming from the exhaust and it only has the cat

wiggle cat and hear something broken inside.......think i found it. im going to put a pipie in to replace it.....someone know the size of the exhaust? long shot im sure

codes 24 33 and 34 now present have it running it idles at 1000 then shoots to 2500 and idles out at 1500 when given gas it will it rise pedal input then dies shortly after releasing pedal

You didn't hear this from me, but instead of spending money on a new pipe, and making what you did obvious, just drop the cat and "clean it out" with a long screwdriver or some such implement, then put it back in place.

It also appears that you may have a serious vacuum leak, possibly around the #1 port where the gasket is not well supported. The factory gasket gets sucked in at the top outboard corner, just under the power steering pump. Replace with a Felpro, they have a metal backing in them that helps them to resist being drawn in by the vacuum.

im not doubting you but it never had a leak like that before.....could it be it just all happened at once?

The SL/SL1 engines are famous for this. I have had two factory gaskets fail, I now have a Felpro intake manifold gasket and it has worked for the last 120k + miles. If you look at this area, you will see that there is no stud and nut on this corner of the manifold because of the power steering pump.

Prior to complete failure, you may or may not have noticed a slightly higher idle and a very slight roughness to the idle, some people may not notice this. The mileage will also have dropped by about 1 mpg, but again, a lot of people don't pay that much attention to their gas mileage and a 1 mpg drop in a car getting 35+ mpg is hardly noticable.

If you had a newer Saturn with OBD II, you would have gotten a P0507 code.

This does seem to be a bigger issue with the newer Saturn SL/SL1 engines, maybe the older ones used a metal backed gasket, but the newer ones used a fabric gasket with an RTV bead in it, and it didn't hold up very well.

cool i will check it out thanks

would that intake leak sound like a whistle when given gas and cause the engline to stumble and lose power?

Replaced intake gasket....still stumbles at 1500 and loses power. Firing order is correct please help

Compression good
All cylinders getting spark
Timing is correct
Fuel pressure steady as throttle opens.
No check engine light
Cat and exhaust system flowing freely
I'm stumped, it ought to be running great

This shouldn't be a problem, but are the brakes dragging ??