1993 SW2 Ignition Switch Commutator
My 93 SW2 would start right up sometimes, other times I have to turn the key back and forth, wait, try again. Things led me to suspect the ignition switch (not the cylinder lock) known as the commutator ? This is the electronic unit on the left side of the steering column which the lock cylinder (on the right) fits into.
Anticipating having to replace the commutator, I removed the steering column shrouds and noticed the two screws holding the original commutator were a bit loose. I tightened these and the last three times I've tried, it has started right up.
Does anyone have experience with the ignition switch commutator and could I have fixed it by simply tightening things up ?
Thanks -Marty
Anticipating having to replace the commutator, I removed the steering column shrouds and noticed the two screws holding the original commutator were a bit loose. I tightened these and the last three times I've tried, it has started right up.
Does anyone have experience with the ignition switch commutator and could I have fixed it by simply tightening things up ?
Thanks -Marty
Seems to be a reasonable solution. You are counting on electrical contacts contacting other electrical contacts, so any hap or slop would be expected to cause problems. Plus it has 32 years of wear on it, conceivably.
When it did not work, were you getting complete silence when turning the key?
When it did work, could you hear the fuel pump priming and turning off after about 3 seconds once you turned the key to run? It's a low humming sound that ends with a click as the fuel relay opens.
When it did not work, were you getting complete silence when turning the key?
When it did work, could you hear the fuel pump priming and turning off after about 3 seconds once you turned the key to run? It's a low humming sound that ends with a click as the fuel relay opens.
Seems to be a reasonable solution. You are counting on electrical contacts contacting other electrical contacts, so any hap or slop would be expected to cause problems. Plus it has 32 years of wear on it, conceivably.
When it did not work, were you getting complete silence when turning the key?
When it did work, could you hear the fuel pump priming and turning off after about 3 seconds once you turned the key to run? It's a low humming sound that ends with a click as the fuel relay opens.
When it did not work, were you getting complete silence when turning the key?
When it did work, could you hear the fuel pump priming and turning off after about 3 seconds once you turned the key to run? It's a low humming sound that ends with a click as the fuel relay opens.
-Marty
That says to me that with the cylinder turned to the start position, the things that need to get key on power are not getting them, most notably the fuel pump relay. It's not priming as it is supposed to when energized.
Similarly, the signal to the starter to enable it to do its thing is not getting there, so you have no priming followed by no starter spinning = silence.
Similarly, the signal to the starter to enable it to do its thing is not getting there, so you have no priming followed by no starter spinning = silence.
That says to me that with the cylinder turned to the start position, the things that need to get key on power are not getting them, most notably the fuel pump relay. It's not priming as it is supposed to when energized.
Similarly, the signal to the starter to enable it to do its thing is not getting there, so you have no priming followed by no starter spinning = silence.
Similarly, the signal to the starter to enable it to do its thing is not getting there, so you have no priming followed by no starter spinning = silence.
It's been starting consistently since I tightened the two commutator screws. I wouldn't have thought being a bit loose could result in such inconsistent starting ....but there you have it. I guess the pin that fits in the commutator from the key cylinder wasn't making a good firm mechanical contact resulting in inconsistent electrical contact.
-Marty
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