Ignition Cylinder
 

Hello all,

My name is Zack and I have a 2001 L200.

About a month a go I had a new key made by the vin#. Now about a week ago. My steering column is locking up and the key won't turn. If the key is in the ignition and I tap it with a hammer, I can eventually get the key to turn and the car to start.

By looking up online it looks like my ignition cylinder is bad.

1) Is this a simple fix to do myself? If yes, how do I get a copy of key?
2) Should I take this to a shop?


Thank you all. I really appreciate your input.

from research on L series (2000 LS2)
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If your lock turns the simple instructions are:
1) remove the upper shroud - there are three screws on the bottom shroud holding them together. Once you remove the screws there are additional plastic tabs you'll have to pull apart.
2) pry off the "cylinder lock bezel" - it's the plastic piece with the "ACC, RUN, START" labeling around the cylinder.
2a) IMPORTANT: Auto Trans: Put the car in Drive + Engage E-brake to keep car from starting. Manual Trans: Neutral, foot OFF of clutch pedal
3) turn the key to START
4) There is a hole above the lock cylinder that accesses the release to remove the lock cylinder. Just push a small screw driver in there and push down on the lock pin. The cylinder should just pull out.

If your lock cannot be turned to the START position, then you will have to drill out the lock pin to get the cyl out.

Look for and remove debris in the housing when you pull the lock cyl; there may just be metal shavings and such that are binding up the cyl when trying to rotate. I have seen posts stating a cleaning of the area and orig cyl of metal debris made everything function properly.

Your call.
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As far as replacement/keying, you can either
--- buy an OEM lock cyl and have a GM dealer set the tumblers to match your VIN
(end result: entire car remains keyed off of a single key)
---buy an aftermarket lock cyl that comes with it's own key
(end result: 1 key for ign, 1 key for everything else)



And I wouldn't push your luck w the hammer. Address the situation before you end up w a completely stuck or broken off key, which will make this much more difficult to repair. Remember you need to be able to rotate it to the START position

Try your old key. I just had the dealer cut two keys and they were a little stiff for a few days. The new keys worked great in the door right away.

Spartan, did you get the new VIN cut keys b/c the originals were hanging up in the ign?

Thanks. I can get in the Start position with use of a hammer, but I onltry tried that because my car was stuck at the grocery store. It looks like the cylinder is $53 at Autozone and I found a locksmith to key it for $25 to match my key. I am going to see what a dealership chargers for the part plus keying. I really appreciate the advice.

I got an extra because my original was worn down. It would start the car but not open the doors. I would get into the car using the fob, but I broker it.

Another importing thing to mention. When I first had trouble starting the car, I was able to rotate the steering wheel 1/2 turn and the tires did not move. Do you think this is a bigger problem like the steering column?

When I was able to getting started by pulling the wheel down to get to the grocery store and with the hammer to get the car back to the grocery store, the steering seemed fine.

i think it prob depends on which direction your wheels were pointed in at the time. If they're cranked all the way to one side, then you will easily see them move, but if they are close to center you may not be able to tell.

Thanks all. I am going to change the cylinder this week.

hey folks --is there any recommended grease/lube for install (yes I remember the Ions)?

Pardon my ignorance, but what exactly would I lube.

Possibly the outside of the cyl, but people argue over whether it matters, collects dirt, finds its way to the electrical contacts of the ignition switch itself.

I use just graphite powder for the innards of the locks.

For the key slot, power graphite is best. O'Reilly has it in a little blue tube. For the cylinder cavity, when replacing the key lock cylinder, white lithium grease works best in my opinion...I use the spray can application.

I believe this guy is replacing his ignition switch in an L series. Hope this helps!




I've replaced the ignition cylinder in my S-series and the trickiest part was getting the code and making sure it's correct in the new cylinder. The tumblers will have numbers written on them. Write these down on a piece of paper and match them up with the new tumblers you'll get with your new ignition cylinder kit.

After a few months, I haven't had any binding or starting troubles with the ignition.

Good luck!

Awesome Videos! Thank you Dave4422!

I need to replace my trunk lock; I've had the cyl for three years but was afraid to mess w it as I have never done so and didn't want to end up w a disassembled broken cyl, an improperly config'd new cyl, and nothing to fill the hole in the trunk with (where the cyl goes). Maybe I'll give it a whirl

The new cylinder is installed and everything works great! Car starts every time. Thank you everyone for your comments. I appreciate it a lot.

Besides a 2001 L200, I also have a 1999 sw1 that keeps me busy as well.

Spartan,

could you please make a signature like ours:
First Name/Location (State)
Year Model Engine Mileage for all Saturns
Any other rides you wish to list

top right of page
clk your username>>UserCP>>Edit signature on left

Thanks.