When I replaced the CPS I broke the lock or keeper on the CPS pigtail. I reconnected it and wrapped it with electrical tape. OK, 6 months later and no start again. Would the CPS pig tail coming lose but not completely off yet cause an engine miss fire condition?

 

 

I saw a crimp on replacement pig tail when I bought the new CPS. I will order one.

 

 

OK we tried the CPS and it is connected. Guess my securing the pig tail worked. It started when it was cold and ran for 5 seconds and died again. Battery is good. Fuel rail has pressure at the valve. Released the gas, cranked it a few and the pressure came back. Since I disconnected the battery to get the starter out it cleared any codes. Code reader says NO CODES. What now?

 

That depends.

What were the codes before you disconnected the battery?

Pxxxx
Bxxxx
Uxxxx

format, please.

Also, what's the security light doing before cranking, when cranking, and while it's running for the five seconds?

 

I cant remember the number but it was for misfire cylinder 3. It stumbled now and again but it ran OK most of the time. Then it got a really bad miss and died. I was not in the car to see the security light. I will try it again today and post it. Thanks.

 

 

That would be P0303.
as long as P0300 (random misfire) did not also come up at the same time, the ECM has likely correctly diag d at least part of the issue.but as always, you have to figure out why.

I drove an s car for 9 months on 3 cylinders while saving up for a replacement engine. It was of course low on power and vibrated like hell at idle, but in never just stopped running.
An L61 in an ion is not the same as an LL0 DOHC in an s car but I would think it could run roughly on 3 cyls, even if the 4 is dead (zero compression) as in my case.

The fact that it reproducibly starts then dies (or am I misunderstanding) implies there is combustion in at least some of the cylinders.

As Andy suggested previously TWICE, do a compression check across all four cylinders and report the results here. Remember to do it at wide open throttle. Do loan a tool from AutoZone or similar if you don't have a compression tester.

The check engine light should have been flashing if you were driving around with an actively misfiring engine.

Security woes may also result in the start and stall behavior. Security issues will NOT account for the misfire.

I've supplied the above as supplemental background info.

Please follow Andy's recommendation above to restart troubleshooting and please include the compression check sooner rather than later.

Andy has 40 years of experience over me and has hands on experience with the L61 engine in your car. I do not.

Please follow HIS lead.

 

OK. Let me clear up some of the things I said.
It was running fine and starting fine but had an occasional bump or miss. By occasional I mean you could drive it to the store and it wouldn't miss at all or you could be at a stop light and feel it miss 5 or 6 times. It started missing and stumbling a lot one morning and then just died. I thought it may have been the CPS connector off again but it was fine.
I tried to start it a minute ago and cranks but no start. The check engine is off and the security light acts like it always did. Comes on when you turn on the key but goes out. No blinking after you crank it.
I disconnected the battery the other day to remove the starter and check the CPS. It was fine. Put it all back together and cranked it, it started and ran for about 3 seconds and died again. Hasn't started since. Battery seems fine.
Codes. 300 303 don't remember which but we looked it up and said misfire. Also P0420, catalyst. I was told if you hit the gas and it runs strong the cat may need changing but it wont cause a no start. It ran great when you put it to the floor.
Fuel rail has pressure at the shrader valve when released. Turn the key off and on pressure is back.