2005 Saturn Ion 2 Issues
#1
04-24-2015, 04:20 PM
2005 Saturn Ion 2 Issues
Hey everyone. I recently bought a 2005 Saturn Ion 2 from a friend with 150k miles on it. I will be giving this car to my 16 yo daughter for her first car. The car has the 2.2 engine and runs great. But it does have a couple issues I cannot figure out without spending hundreds of dollars at a dealership.
About every 50 miles, I keep getting the check engine lights, code P2138, and the car goes into limp mode. The code is for the Accelerator Position Sensor, but the previous owner replace it 5k miles ago. So what else could this code be for?
Also, the transmission randomly decides to shift really hard. Especially going from park to drive and from 1st to 2nd. What's really weird is, if I pull over, shut the car off, wait 10 seconds, start the car again, the hard shifting goes away. I have already changed the trans fluid and getting no error codes for the transmission.
Any ideas of what is going on?
About every 50 miles, I keep getting the check engine lights, code P2138, and the car goes into limp mode. The code is for the Accelerator Position Sensor, but the previous owner replace it 5k miles ago. So what else could this code be for?
Also, the transmission randomly decides to shift really hard. Especially going from park to drive and from 1st to 2nd. What's really weird is, if I pull over, shut the car off, wait 10 seconds, start the car again, the hard shifting goes away. I have already changed the trans fluid and getting no error codes for the transmission.
Any ideas of what is going on?
#2
04-24-2015, 05:14 PM
When you changed the fluid, I'm guessing you also changed the filter, right? If not, I'd try that. I'm not familiar with the Ion so don't know what to say about the code you have. Maybe try cleaning the throttle body and running a fuel injector cleaner such as Techron through a tank or two of gas.
#3
04-25-2015, 12:24 AM
I would find what the specific circumstances are that have to occur to set that code amd backtrack from there. I have no Ion experience, but others here are quite the opposite. SOmething may be "fouling" the sensor, might be a poor electrical connection, could be a cheap aftermarket part that doesn't remain within saturn specs as it ages. Just a few "shot in the dark" guesses" for starters.
Could also be simply defective. If it was from autozone, I wouldn't be the least bit surprised.
Could also be simply defective. If it was from autozone, I wouldn't be the least bit surprised.
Last edited by derf; 05-11-2015 at 02:53 AM.
#4
04-25-2015, 02:20 AM
Thanks for your responses. I did change the trans filter when I changed the fluid. Although I did not do a complete flush and the old trans fluid is pretty brown and worn. I also did take off the throttle body and cleaned it since it was pretty gummed up. Definitely made start up and acceleration a lot better.
I only have the receipt of the repair from the previous owner. I do not know what brand Accelerateor Position Sensor they used.
I was told by one shop the code P2138 can also be trans related, but he is the only one who told me that. All other info I get says only the Accelator Position Sensor.
I only have the receipt of the repair from the previous owner. I do not know what brand Accelerateor Position Sensor they used.
I was told by one shop the code P2138 can also be trans related, but he is the only one who told me that. All other info I get says only the Accelator Position Sensor.
#5
04-25-2015, 09:20 AM
assume the previous owner bought a cheap part or the shop that worked on it used a cheap part and buy a known good part like NAPA or GM and also the TPS does give a signal back to the computer which does control trans shifting points and harshness
#6
04-25-2015, 12:36 PM
Is it possible that the car needs to re-learn the accelerator position sensor? If it was recently changed, this may be the culprit... I've seen a couple Nissans do just that...
#7
04-25-2015, 03:41 PM
This is what I am afraid of. The dealership wants $150 to flash the computer. Is there any cheaper way?
#8
04-25-2015, 06:31 PM
Find a mechanic with a nice scanner... Most of those can flash the PCM and have it relearn the various sensors on the car... Almost guaranteed to be cheaper than the dealer...
#9
04-25-2015, 06:54 PM
I did some searching for you...
Try the throttle re-learn outlined above, as well as cleaning the throttle body, and MAF sensor...
They say when you key the ignition on,(engine off) the throttle plate should snap closed, open to about 10%, and then snap closed again... Turn the key on for 30 sec without starting the engine to get this "self calibration"... You might also check for linear travel... Basically, take off the intake tube, leaving the MAF connected, turn the key on, and have somebody slowly move the accelerator to the floor and back... You should see a corresponding movement of the throttle plate...
Originally Posted by SaturnFans
I found this while looking at alldata (07 ION 2.2L)
Throttle Learn
1) Start and idle the engine in Park or Neutral for 3 minutes
2) With a scan tool,monitor desired and actual RPM
3) The ECM will start to learn the new idle cells and desired RPM will start to decrease
4) Ignition OFF for 60 seconds
5) Start and idle the engine in Park or Neutral for 3 minutes
6) After the 3 minute run time the engine should be idling normal.(Note-during the drive cycle the engine light may come on with a idle speed DTC.If speed codes are set,clear codes so the ECM can continue to learn)
If the engine idle speed has not be learned,the vehicle will have to be driven at speeds of 44MPH with several decelerations and extended idles.
7) After the drive cycle the engine should be idling normally (if the idle speed has not been learned,shut engine off for 60 seconds and repeat step 6)
8) Once the engine speed is back to normal,clear all DTCs
I had to do this several times and refer to step #6. it was actually about 600 miles before mine returned to normal........
Throttle Learn
1) Start and idle the engine in Park or Neutral for 3 minutes
2) With a scan tool,monitor desired and actual RPM
3) The ECM will start to learn the new idle cells and desired RPM will start to decrease
4) Ignition OFF for 60 seconds
5) Start and idle the engine in Park or Neutral for 3 minutes
6) After the 3 minute run time the engine should be idling normal.(Note-during the drive cycle the engine light may come on with a idle speed DTC.If speed codes are set,clear codes so the ECM can continue to learn)
If the engine idle speed has not be learned,the vehicle will have to be driven at speeds of 44MPH with several decelerations and extended idles.
7) After the drive cycle the engine should be idling normally (if the idle speed has not been learned,shut engine off for 60 seconds and repeat step 6)
8) Once the engine speed is back to normal,clear all DTCs
I had to do this several times and refer to step #6. it was actually about 600 miles before mine returned to normal........
They say when you key the ignition on,(engine off) the throttle plate should snap closed, open to about 10%, and then snap closed again... Turn the key on for 30 sec without starting the engine to get this "self calibration"... You might also check for linear travel... Basically, take off the intake tube, leaving the MAF connected, turn the key on, and have somebody slowly move the accelerator to the floor and back... You should see a corresponding movement of the throttle plate...
#10
04-27-2015, 05:00 AM
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I take the car into the dealership today to get the 3 recalls done. Once I get it back I will try the relearn procedure and checking the throttle body function.