That's a pretty decent list.
See how much a caliber rebuild kit is.

 

could also need a good brake system bleed. Especially if neglected/never flushed/changed. I do my cars at 100K intervals. You wouldn't believe the nasty discolored thick junk that comes out when you first start bleeding 100K old brake fluid.

I've been told that under heavy use, the brake fluid in the lines will heat up, and if it gets excessively hot, it starts to "boil" and break down. Would love if some can confirm/deny on that one. Losing the elasticity of the fluid might account for it.

 

So, I'm officially placing the car out of service as of today... This brake issue is getting serious, and I don't know currently what is wrong, other than a stuck/locked/dragging caliper... That, and my intake fell apart... I guess I didn't do a good enough job of tightening all the clamps... Thankfully, all the pieces are still with the car so I can just hook everything back up...

 

Geez man. That sucks :/
I wonder if the calibers are the same on the base model...

 

It appears they are not the same part... I just cross-referenced the part numbers on RockAuto...

I still hold hope...

The calipers were poorly spray-painted before I got the car, maybe the paint stuck the caliper somehow and it's just now getting bad enough to cause issues... The car always pulled to the side, so the issue has always been present, as far as I can tell...

 

so put the entire front end up on jack stands and with the car in neutral and see how much force it takes to get each wheel spinning. Do the most suspect wheel first, since when you spin one wheel forward, the other side will spin backwards. Then repeat on the other side. This is a crude 1st level ballpark test to see if one is heavily dragging, consistent with a frozen caliper.

Remember that the caliper piston might be retracting as designed but if the pins are not properly lubricated, the caliper bracket may not be sliding on the pins, thus pinning the outer pad against the rotor.

It's also possible the caliper bracket and pins are well lubricated and can move, but the piston is not retracting, likely indicating a piston sealing problem or crap stuck in the piston bore that is inhibiting proper movement.

Figure out which side is dragging more.

When you pull the pads out, if the caliper has been sticking for a while the pads will be badly unevenly worn and the outer should be worn more than the inner. A little difference is normal. A massive difference is not.

Plus I would not at all be surprised if there is a frozen caliper involved, the rotor on that wheel to be warped from the excessive heat.

 

Derf, you beat me to it bud.

 

So, I pulled the car apart today... The boot on the front passenger caliper was half gone, and there looked to be corrosion present inside the piston bore... I liberally soaked the piston/bore with PB Blaster and slathered bearing grease in there, so no more dirt can enter... Then, I forcibly retracted the piston and cycled it back to where it was using the brake pedal... It works better, for now... Pads were nearly new, and rotors are 95% fine... I get a slight vibration at 90, and there is a slight heat difference between sides after a drive, but she rolls for now... I just need to re-attach my intake, and she will be ready for DD duty again... Grand total cost-$0.00

But I will need a caliper, and I found a pair of PowerStop calipers on RockAuto for like $65... They are powder coated red and everything...

I kinda wonder why there is a single piston caliper on a performance car though... Might look into a retro-fit of a better one down the road... Maybe Ranger calipers might bolt on somehow...

 

Glad to hear you figured out the issue, and that is way cheaper than I thought it would be.
Surprised they come powder coated though.
I wonder if they have silver...

 

good news.
now you can sell the ranger and deal with the other parts of life that are beating on you