CAI mpg increase.

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  #31  
Old 03-31-2012, 04:36 PM
08astraxr's Avatar
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Thank you sir.. I'll check back
Originally Posted by uncljohn
What you need is information on what a code zero is and I don't know. But I have some Saturn Specific diagnostics that I will look up tonight and see if anything is mentioned on them. I don't memorise that stuff but I do have books and I can read. Last weekend I bought a Chiltons manual on Vacuum diagrams for cars of the 80's. You have no idea how many variations there are on a single car and engine combination for those years and how many damned fools say I have a vacumn line loose that have no clue where it goes and generally it represents 2 problems not one. But they are experts having no idea why their car runs like crap. I have one collector car that it took me 6 months to get it to run right because the vacuum lines were incorrect and there were 11 different variations that car could have. The 49 state automatic and standard transmission variation, the California, the high altitutde or Denver Variation, the light truck variation and the Canadian ones. Not to mention the 3 or 4 that had different variations due to the rear axle ratio. But, the owner at the time insisted that it was correct with nothing wrong it just had a loose vacuum line.
Yeah! And pigs fly tool.
Sorry I got carried away. I'll look up the code 0000 stuff tonight and I think your car is listed some where. Check back later.
 
  #32  
Old 03-31-2012, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by uncljohn
And pigs fly too.
Unc -- clearly you've never seen Pink Floyd in concert.....

08Astr -- never heard of a code 0 but I am most interested to find out
 
  #33  
Old 04-01-2012, 12:33 AM
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Well, after an extensive search of my servicing documentation I found?
Not much useful.
There were two general references made.
One of which basically says that the read outs that are capable of being displayed were primarily a function of the scan tool in use.
Now considering that the the S cars are a bit long in tooth, that tidbit of information gets multiplied by what ever technology is or is not longer in use today.
Along with that, there was no mention of a zero or 0000 display which may or not be a starting display that is displayed if no others are available to be read. Dunno. But if you take the following information:
A problem may eist even if DTCs are not present. About 80 percent of the driveability problems occur without setting DTCs. Sensors that are out of calibration will not set a DTC but will cause driveability problems.
Using a sccan tool is the easiest method of checking sensor specifications and other data parameters. Scan tool is also useful in finding inttermittent wiring problems by wiggling wire harnesses and connetions (key n, engine off) while observing data paremeters.


Which assumes I guess, you know what the parameters are, your scan tool can read them and the connectors are any damned good after age and weather conditions have beat on the for periods up to 20 years and they have not previously been damaged trying to get the things disconnected.
After years of working on electronics trying to get these connectors apart with out breaking them is an excersize in pure frustration.
I have on file muiltiple pages of things to do in the circumstances you describe, in part written as if you know what you are doing and how to do it. A brief summery of those multiple pages is wiggle wires and connectors and see if it can be repeated. Past that?
There is no way I could replicate that information and I am not sure I could live long enough to re-type it.
The bottom line?
It makes sense to me why so many 10 year old or so used cars on the market that don't run worth a crap.
I just spent about $300.00 in parts putting a new radiator in my 2007 van. The plastic end caps cracked and leaked. it took 4 days to complete it. I have no idea whether I could have afforded to pay some one a grand or better to >fix< it when the odds are, they would have broken more than I do, fixing it.
Sorry. Can't answer. But I tried.
 
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