Hello all, my name is james and I own a 97 SC1 named Sally. She is a 1.9l single jingle 5 speed that just turned 107,000. Never had any issues out of her until recently. She got sick and threw up codes for o2 sensors and CPS. Replaced both o2 and cps and gave her a tuneup with plugs and wires just because and she seemed better. Then it got real bad. She quit throwing codes and would run idle for 10 minutes before stalling (or maybe choking is a good way to describe it) and sputtering and stalling out. Then she would not start back until cooled down again. I have replaced since then (and list is not short) ects, iacs, tps, cps again, plugs, wires, thermostat, ignition coils (towers), fuel filler neck, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, rail, injectors, pcm, cleaned throttle body, cleaned egr, replaced gaskets on both egr and throttle body, no leaks, removed catalytic converter, fuel pump relay, and im sure there is something else that ive just forgotten right now. Im genuinely stumped and could use some wise input. I honestly feel I've overlooked something minor that is the root of my evil.. Yall help me get sally going again please, thanks in advance.

 

How did you test things to justify the replacement of each part you listed?

Please explain the rationale behind each change.

What code number prompted you to change the CKP? (Pxxxx format, please)

Where did you source these parts? Especially the electrical parts?

 

P0137 P0118 P0134 P0122. All parts that were available thru autozone were purchased there, every thing else was purchased thru lkq, and I double bought the things I could. Yeah I know I've kind of thrown parts at it here lately but I've never encountered a vehicle issue that stumped me. If need be, later tonight I can type out the order and exact thought process in order and step by step that I had. Thank yall

 

Thank you for the info
I will address this weekend (now that I have homework

Do you have any pending codes left after clearing those codes? Also, which ones come back after clearing? Might need a 50 total mi drive for all the emissions stuff to go through the monitor checks.Let me look into it.

 

Your first mistake was buying parts from Autozone. I used to work for them and most of their parts like you bought are generic for several different vehicles. Saturns are kind of picky and do much better with genuine AC/Delco parts. IDK why, they just do. Derf is your best source of help on this one as he has the same car! Listen to him, he knows what he's talking about.

 

I wasn't particularly thrilled about the choices I had myself lol. Derf, I greatly appreciate your input (all of yall's). It has not thrown anymore codes, and I've driven it around 90 miles. She will idle for 10 minutes before choking out, or if i drive her it only takes about 5 minutes.

 

Order of how things transpired, to the best of my recollection.
1) Sally breaks down, and burned up plug wire number 3. New wires to get her home.
2) At home she began throwing error codes (from earlier in thread), all of them. Replaced all plugs and plug wires and discovered rust on ignition coil, money tight so replaced the rusted coil only (2nd replaced 2 days later as they were 50 bucks each).
3) Replaced other ignigion coil, cps, and realized that plug wires were on in incorrect order (and had been since before I owned it. Figured that out via photo when I first bought her). Blew my mind bc I've had her for quite some time with no issues.
4) Went ahead and bought (again) new plugs and cables, and wired in order of plug to coil 1-2,2-3,3-4,&4-1.
5) replaced cps
6) replace ects and iacs
7)she seems much better so i take my kids for ice cream and she dies in a busy intersection and won't start back.
8)unable to see my kids without running vehicle so I start being stupid and throwing parts at it.
9) order here unsure but essentially re replaced everything I had already replaced (ive had defective parts before as im sure yall have) but to no avail
10) come to conclusion everhthing ties to pcm, that must be it. Replace it. Same issue.
11)replace thermostat, bypass egr (richpin), re gasket throttle body and egr.
​​​​12)make sure for the 29th time i dont have leak
13)fall down the rabbit hole and read about f5 issue. Begin convincing myself that's the issue, but snap out of it and replace fuel pump relay instead.
14) just throwing parts now, replace MAF, ects connector, idle air control valve, throttle position sensor, iacs connector, air filter, filler neck, fuel filter, fuel rail, injectors, and cps again.
15) im lost on this and its consumed me. Im too close to the situation to see whatever it is. Appreciate yall helping me

 

That sounds more fuel related than anything else. Maybe the fuel pump is getting ready to die. If you have a schrader valve on the fuel line, get a pressure tester and hook it up and monitor it and see what's up with the pressure. If not that, possibly a restricted PCV issue?

 

I am sorry Rube, I did leave pcv valve and hose off the list, but I did replace them when I was on throttle body and egr. The fuel pump though....has not been touched. It does have a test port on it after the fuel filter, i just haven't had the $ to rent one. Okay, let me ask this, my fuel pump is loud and always has been. If I idle to failure (10ish minutes) and then turn key off, how long would I need to wait to move key to on position so I could hear fuel pump turn on? Would it be right away or? Thank you for the help yall

 

Sorry for the delay.

What is the resistance across the two pins of the ECTS? Cold and at operating temperature?

What is the DC voltage across the ECTS connector with the key in the ON position but the engine off?

Also, is there corrosion usually green, on the pins of the ECTS connector? Remember it is a squeeze connector.