I bought this 2002 Saturn Sc2 a couple months ago for 1200. Its a pretty good little car. Its got a couple little things that need done to it. Theres a check engine light on for both O2 sensors. The coolant light is on...even tho the tank is full. I guess you have to replace the whole tank to fix that. When I got it the brakes were quiet, but the past month the right rear drum makes a clanking noise when braking...mainly once it gets a lot slower. Below 20 mph. I thought it might have been an out of round drum. So I switched the drums to see if the sound moved. It didn't. I tried adjusting them manually and it helped temporarily, but the sound came back slowly. So im kinda confused what the noise is. Another thing the headlights are dim...lol I know some cars you can wire the dims and brights to both be on when running brights. Is it possible on this car?

 

O2 sensors
Please get the codes read at AutoZone or similar for free at post them here as P#### where the #s are numbers.
Don't need the descriptions, just the numbers.
Don't buy any parts regardless of what the dude is scanning your vehicle tells you.

Coolant light

First of all are you losing coolant?
Is the vehicle overheating?

The sensor in these reservoir tanks operates on head pressure from the liquid above. Some of them are extremely sensitive so make sure it is filled completely to the top full line and maybe a tiny bit more.

The tank can be removed from the vehicle. Wash it with a dilute solution of Dawn in very hot water and let it soak. Sometimes the sensors get gummed up and do not respond properly to the pressure being put on them by the fluid above.

Also check the wiring at the sensor, at the pigtail that plugs into the sensor, and the wiring leading back to the PCM for damage.

If all else fails, dorman makes a replacement.

Is the cooling fan under the hood running at all times? I believe the dash light doubles as a low coolant / hot idiot light.


Drum brakes

Definitely not my thing.
I'm sure someone else will chime in here soon enough.

KEEP THE OIL LEVEL FULL. NO MORE THAN HALF A QUART DOWN. OLD DOHCS BURN OIL. OIL CHANGE EVERY 3,000 WITH DINO OIL OR 5000 WITH SYNTHETIC.

​​​​​​Most s cars die because owners don't check the oil often enough.

 

Headlights are dim because the plastic has dry rotted and is fogged up so to speak. You can buy different compounds at the auto parts store that will clear up the cloudy haze or you can use toothpaste so I'm told. Both should remove most of your haze on the plastic.

Neither will last indefinitely. Common issue with vehicles of this vintage and even some today.

Surprisingly you may still be able to find a decent set from a freshly totaled third generation coupe 2000 to 2002, possibly 1999.

The key is to monitor the new vehicles coming in.

Please do not attempt to rewire your headlights to all be on at the same time. Same goes with the high beams staying on with the fog lights. It blinds people coming the other way when your headlight lenses are clear. It's designed that way for a reason. Safety. There are other ways to address your issue and I've mentioned one of them

 

I have a scanner. I will get the codes tomorrow, but the description said upstream o2, and downstream o2. The coolant tank is full. Ive checked it a lot. It doesnt overheat and the fan doesn't run solid. I will check the wiring on it and clean the tank as you said . The headlights on this car look like brand new. No oxidation whatsoever. It was garage kept so I guess that helps. It has osram nightbreaker bulbs. I think those are supposed to be pretty bright. But when I hold back on the brights they all stay lit up and its so nice...lol i wouldn't drive in town or leave all them on if a car was coming...lol i have a lot of back roads with deer so I want really bright high beams...lol I appreciate all the help guys keep it coming. Anyone got any ideas on the brake noise?