Gas gauge not working right
 

Been having to jump start my sc2 if it sat for more then about 2 days. Went out today to drive it only to find out I had no gas as far so I thought put a gallon of gas in it took it to the gas station just to find out my gas gauge was not working. After I filled it the rest of the way up had to jump it again. Thinking it just did not charge enough. Went to the store came out and the same thing. While driving to the parts store to get a battery started noticing the gas gauge would work sometimes. Put new battery in it and the gas gauge started working right again. I guess when the battery goes real bad the gauges are the first thing to stop working right even though the car ran just fine.

Saturn gauges are very sensitive to improper voltages, same goes for the instrument cluster lighting. Flickering of the lights or jumping of the gauges is a solid wake up call to check the electrical system for problems ....

Thank you for letting me know that I will defiantly keep that in mind. This car has been riddled with problems since I got it but I think I have just about got all the bugs worked out. Today was the first real successful shake down cruise I have had with it which is to say that nothing went wrong. So I think I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel on this project. Next up will be to see about turbo charging it

You have an old car that's riddled with problems, and spending money on turbo seems like a good idea to you. Ok then..................tell me how that turns out.

I just built the motor 2 months ago after the car sat for 6 months. I am just having a few little problems with it but I kinda expected that given the fact the last owner of it was not real mechanicly inclined. And his idea of when to check the oil was when the oil light came on. I probably will wait till the spring to put the turbo on it so I will have the time to get the rest of the bugs out of it.

It sounds to me like it would be a good time to go through things and clean electricalconnections along with unplugging plugs and using some electical plug grease on the contacts and such and putting them back together.

I never thought about greeseing the connections that is a good idea it seems to be running fine exept on start up and then sometimes it acts like it is flooded but other then that it run good. I am thinking might try injector cleaner in it I have always used Lucas in the past. But been hearing about sea foam. What is your option on that product.

Pull the connector on the ECTS, and measure the resistance of the sensor with your ohmmeter. Should be about 360 ohms .....

With engine hot or cold or does it mater

Preferably cold -- less chances of burning your pinkeys .... LOL

Ok was not sure if resistance changed that much as it warmed up

Didn't bother to check it just changed it as when I pulled the connector off one of the pins stayed on the connector. The good news is the rpms are down below 1100 at idle and does seem to want to stall out anymore. So thank you very much the help.
And yes I did pull the old pin out of the connector.

Golly darn -- that makes me two for two today.

Maybe I should treat myself to a night out at the local casino ... LOL

Yes you should. Lol

Todays more modern cars, and that is a relative statement in that the 2nd car I ever owned was a 1930 Model A Ford pulled out from a small junk yard was used much the same way the S series Saturns are used in this thread. As beaters more or less with problems that needed correction. Had a whole lot less electronics and the wiring was bad (don't ever say they did not build them like they used to, you have no clue how much better built they are today) but being as it was a lot simpler I was able to re-wire the whole car with out a problem and that solved a lot of things. A solution that is not remotely possible today.
With the number of connectors used in todays cars connections can and do oxidize causing problems. A way to solve those problems is to unplug and replug the connectors. Doing that as the pins un-mate and the re-mate it scrapes the contact points clean. The electrical grease works by coating the mating surfaces and prevents air from making contact with them, the helping to prevent corrosion from re-forming.
The factory does that when they make the car. Well after the fact, keeping a tube of it handy when you are working on things helps keep things working better longer. 'Specially if your car is driven in a salt on the road environment.
Just saying.
As to the the others? I have used Lucas Products in the past. Generally when age and mileage has shown up on products like transmissions and such which Lucas Claims that they address and for the most part I believe I have extended the useful life out using those products. I use some Lucas products when installing new or rebuilt pieces. I have also used STP at times and it was functionally useful.
As to SeaFoam? The latest one of many products like it on the shelves and I personally have not run across a need for it although I bought a can and it sat on the shelves long enough where I forgot about it. I used it recently on my Spirit which was having a problem and SeaFoam amused things enough to use it, but it did nothing because there was a bad sensor causing the problem. The stuff ain't magic and motor fix it in a can rarely fixes much of anything. At least in my experience.

My first cat was not as old as yours but it was an early 70's Datsun but as it was per computer and did have points and condenser in so I have a little trouble with sensors that mess with computer controls but as the is the age we live in I guess I will have to get use to it.