Saturn 3 Door Coupes SC1 and SC2

1995 SC1 will not go past 1900 RPM

Old Oct 12, 2008 | 08:03 PM
  #1  
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1995 SC1 plugs, wires, o sensor, temp. coolant sensor and switch, new fuel filter and MAP sensor. I think I''''ve overlookedd something way to easy!!!!! Car starts fine but if I rev it up past 1900RPM it will kick sputter and die. If I let it idle it smells like it is running rich. When it does die the new plugs are fouled. Let ''''em dryout and it will start. oilpack tested good. Please help me get my daughter out of my truck so I can have it back.Edited by: jamesroberson
 
Old Oct 13, 2008 | 07:19 AM
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Does it idle smoothly?
Any codes?

Based on plug fouling and other parts of your description:

A) Make sure the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator is attached and intact (no leaks). Fuel pressure regulator has vacuum operated diaphragm. Car runs like poopy without proper vacuum to the regulator.

If that doesn''t solve it:

B)Check fuel pressure at schrader valve near intake.

Please report back with

1 Fuel Pressure with key on (no start, after priming)
2 Fuel Pressure with car idling
3 Fuel Pressure when revving engine to 1900 rpm
4 Fuel Pressure when engine stalls

Derf
 
Old Oct 13, 2008 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by jamesroberson
1995 SC1 plugs, wires, o sensor, temp. coolant sensor and switch, new fuel filter and MAP sensor.
Did you replace the correct coolant temperature sensor?
 
Old Oct 13, 2008 | 05:40 PM
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I installed the right coolant sensor but it is now dying and the RPM gauge goes crazy even when the motor is completely dead and I hear a crackeling (electrical) and popping until I turn the key off. then the gauge goes to 0 . Haven''t got fuel press. yet. thanks fellas
 
Old Oct 13, 2008 | 06:57 PM
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UPDATE!!!!!!!! Electircal short is popping at the injectors.... What would make them pop and stay open?
 
Old Oct 15, 2008 | 07:55 AM
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Bizarre. Sounds like issue with spark timing and injector timing, though it is not clear how we got from a running vehicle up to 1900 rpm to this electrical popping at injectors with crazy rpm gauge behavior without changing anything. Was it always doing the popping thing and you just figured it out?

Please clarify.

1)Does the car still run ok below 1900 rpm?

2)Check for correct firing order (plug wires connected to proper coil terminals.)

3)How did you test the coil packs to conclude they were OK?

Command to open and close injectors comes from PCM based on info/feedback from other sensors in the vehicle...

4) How do you know the injectors are staying open did you pull and observe or watch through the plug holes with the plugs removed?
 
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