Smog Tests, do you need to deal with them?
#1
11-07-2012, 11:49 PM
Smog Tests, do you need to deal with them?
I do, but remember at our level, those who know own the car depending on the age of it and also remembering the smog test requirement is a state mandated test. Not Federal, but state. They tell you where, how and what it has to go through and in some cases waive the test depending on?????
Or what ever they tell you it depends on.
It pays to know if you are going to own and run a car that requires a smog test that you know what is tested and how it works.
So that when test is done if it is done you know how to feed the system raw data that makes it happy.
Also remember a restored car, and the operative word is restored. When it comes to value of the individual restored car it must be restored to factory condition which includes the smog equipment and working. I have 6 collector cars, all of which can be in my state waived as to taking the smog tests. But due to particular needs on my part about half of them are not registered that way. BUT each and everyone of them can and will pass smog. At least the operative ones will 4 of them. The other two, one will have a heavily modified street racing motor and it will pass smog when I am done. In fact my existing street racer passes smog every year and a fuel injection conversion done on a 1975 motor not only passes smog but runs reliable and very quick.
Today I took my 2007 chrysler for it's first smog test since I bought it new. To me it is important to know what the test looks for just in case I need to come up with a way to supply what is needed to the machine doing the testing. This is an obd (II) COMPLIANCE TEST.
What was looked for or checked and what was found
The gas cap was in place? Yes it was and was tight.
The pricy smog test machine was plugged into the OBD test port-----
with the engine off and then cranking did the dash board bulbs that indicate status work correctly? Answer-Yes.
When the engine was running did the bulbs work correctly? Answer Yes.
Does the test port communicate to the PCM or computor? The answer was yes.
Did the Malfunction indicator turn on and off? and then when commanded stay off? The answer was yes.
WOW!!!! A $150.00 code scanner will duplicate a lot of this and a lap tap with an app can do the rest.
I can build a wicked Street racer out of my 3.3 MOPAR V6 and have a smog test machine plugged into a test port and report that the world is good. My 500hp old school street racer will be squeaky clean when smog tested. How? I know what is looked for and why and I will see to it that is shows up when it is needed.
I personally believe in smog testing as beneficial. I also believe in passing smog tests and I do that.
Oh well, have a nice week.
Or what ever they tell you it depends on.
It pays to know if you are going to own and run a car that requires a smog test that you know what is tested and how it works.
So that when test is done if it is done you know how to feed the system raw data that makes it happy.
Also remember a restored car, and the operative word is restored. When it comes to value of the individual restored car it must be restored to factory condition which includes the smog equipment and working. I have 6 collector cars, all of which can be in my state waived as to taking the smog tests. But due to particular needs on my part about half of them are not registered that way. BUT each and everyone of them can and will pass smog. At least the operative ones will 4 of them. The other two, one will have a heavily modified street racing motor and it will pass smog when I am done. In fact my existing street racer passes smog every year and a fuel injection conversion done on a 1975 motor not only passes smog but runs reliable and very quick.
Today I took my 2007 chrysler for it's first smog test since I bought it new. To me it is important to know what the test looks for just in case I need to come up with a way to supply what is needed to the machine doing the testing. This is an obd (II) COMPLIANCE TEST.
What was looked for or checked and what was found
The gas cap was in place? Yes it was and was tight.
The pricy smog test machine was plugged into the OBD test port-----
with the engine off and then cranking did the dash board bulbs that indicate status work correctly? Answer-Yes.
When the engine was running did the bulbs work correctly? Answer Yes.
Does the test port communicate to the PCM or computor? The answer was yes.
Did the Malfunction indicator turn on and off? and then when commanded stay off? The answer was yes.
WOW!!!! A $150.00 code scanner will duplicate a lot of this and a lap tap with an app can do the rest.
I can build a wicked Street racer out of my 3.3 MOPAR V6 and have a smog test machine plugged into a test port and report that the world is good. My 500hp old school street racer will be squeaky clean when smog tested. How? I know what is looked for and why and I will see to it that is shows up when it is needed.
I personally believe in smog testing as beneficial. I also believe in passing smog tests and I do that.
Oh well, have a nice week.
#3
11-09-2012, 06:59 AM
If you want some serious thrills take a pre-fuel injected car in and add to that where some states have a visual that has to be passed too. California is that way, don't know where else although rumor has it that Pennsylvania is even tougher on the visuals.
The secrete still is to become familiar enough with what the smog test is looking for so that you can see to it that what they want to see, will get seen.
The visual wants to have ALL the smog legal equipment be seen to be smalg legal. And that can be done! As to working? The engine is checked running and hot so most of the equipment under the hood is functionally by passed by the controls and do not effect the operation of a hot engine thus the parts (many of them anyway) just have to look good. The engine has to hit on all of the cylinders to pass smog. A heavy cam does not do that at idle. That is where the lumpy or rump rump sound comes from.
Factory idle is generally about 700rpm. However in the two states I have lived in the acceptable idle level for the purpose of smog testing is 1100 rpm. So re-adjusting that and a few other support adjustments can get a car to idle at 1100 rpm and at that rpm it WILL hit on all cylinders AND be squeaky clean.
It hides a cam. But, a standard shift car, that is easy but an automatic is tested in gear and you can not get that combination to idle correctly at 1100 rpm. The drag from the torque converter won't let it. So on those when you build it, you install a 2200 rpm stall torque-converter Now you can get it to idle at 2200 rpm in gear. But each state determines their own smog criteria and test method. That has to be identified and complied with.
Catalytic Converters have not proven to be a problem. Available here is a general purpose hi-flow catalytic converter that installs for about $150.00 a piece. They work. So I use them. At least around here a muffler shop will not install a used cat. So you kinda have to.
The secrete still is to become familiar enough with what the smog test is looking for so that you can see to it that what they want to see, will get seen.
The visual wants to have ALL the smog legal equipment be seen to be smalg legal. And that can be done! As to working? The engine is checked running and hot so most of the equipment under the hood is functionally by passed by the controls and do not effect the operation of a hot engine thus the parts (many of them anyway) just have to look good. The engine has to hit on all of the cylinders to pass smog. A heavy cam does not do that at idle. That is where the lumpy or rump rump sound comes from.
Factory idle is generally about 700rpm. However in the two states I have lived in the acceptable idle level for the purpose of smog testing is 1100 rpm. So re-adjusting that and a few other support adjustments can get a car to idle at 1100 rpm and at that rpm it WILL hit on all cylinders AND be squeaky clean.
It hides a cam. But, a standard shift car, that is easy but an automatic is tested in gear and you can not get that combination to idle correctly at 1100 rpm. The drag from the torque converter won't let it. So on those when you build it, you install a 2200 rpm stall torque-converter Now you can get it to idle at 2200 rpm in gear. But each state determines their own smog criteria and test method. That has to be identified and complied with.
Catalytic Converters have not proven to be a problem. Available here is a general purpose hi-flow catalytic converter that installs for about $150.00 a piece. They work. So I use them. At least around here a muffler shop will not install a used cat. So you kinda have to.
Last edited by uncljohn; 11-09-2012 at 07:06 AM.
#4
11-09-2012, 07:11 AM
I don't have to worry about them here in the county I live in. If we had to, half of the pieces of crap I see on the highway wouldn't be there. There are some true junkers running down the highways here in Humphreys county, TN.
#5
11-09-2012, 01:22 PM
Ayup - Mississippi's the same way. If the car can get into the inspection station under it's own power, have working lights, turn signals, horn, wipers and brake lights --> you're good to go. Oh, forgot one thing -- tinted windows gotta pass >28% of light (and are an additional $5.00usd)
#8
11-14-2012, 11:53 PM
It never ceases to amaze me how much better today's engines run while essentially developing more h.p. while getting better gas mileage and with better reliability. Today was maintenance day on my Chrysler, a 2007 purchased new with almost 90,000 miles on it now. I installed zerk fittings for the lower ball joints and grease them every 4000 miles. Along with the 4000 mile oil filter change since using mobil 1 20w50 since day zero. Change the filter, add a quart of oil and every 12,000 a full oil change. Check the air filter. Surprising always amazingly clean I am on my 2nd filter there and it was new 4000 miles ago. And check the spark plugs and see if they need changing.
Champion Platinum. I am a Champion fan by the way and use them in all my cars and have over the years. I have never really had a reason to use another brand. Almost 90,000 miles on the OEM plugs, they look a bit tired but not in bad shape and the gap measured was still .050 so no reason to replace them yet. I put the new box of them back in the storage alcove in the van. Back before computer control I used to do 2 tune ups a year and the plugs would be shot on each of them. I have built more than a few engines of various sizes and cylinder count and as I learned more about building and tuning them I started using colder plugs and plug reliability increased immensely. Other than my I6 fuel injection conversion I have not built from scratch another fuel injected engine and probably won't. Way too much money in my book for what I can get out of one with out it. At least based on the parts I have in my garage. So I really have not had the need to use platinum plugs on engines I have built but regular plugs a couple 3 heat ranges colder than OEM recommendations seem to have worked quite well over the years.
I see and understand the reason why my Saturn is not happy with platinum thanks to derfs explanation. But it does not complain when I use Champion regular plugs so I will continue using them.
I'm getting closer to getting my Mercury Marine V8 engined Hornet Station wagon ready to fire up. Right now I am working on getting the transmission linkage to the 700R4 automatic hooked up to the Hornet Column shift. If anyone is interested in seeing how it is coming along it can be seen here:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=827fe42953
Anyway, it has been an interesting day!
Champion Platinum. I am a Champion fan by the way and use them in all my cars and have over the years. I have never really had a reason to use another brand. Almost 90,000 miles on the OEM plugs, they look a bit tired but not in bad shape and the gap measured was still .050 so no reason to replace them yet. I put the new box of them back in the storage alcove in the van. Back before computer control I used to do 2 tune ups a year and the plugs would be shot on each of them. I have built more than a few engines of various sizes and cylinder count and as I learned more about building and tuning them I started using colder plugs and plug reliability increased immensely. Other than my I6 fuel injection conversion I have not built from scratch another fuel injected engine and probably won't. Way too much money in my book for what I can get out of one with out it. At least based on the parts I have in my garage. So I really have not had the need to use platinum plugs on engines I have built but regular plugs a couple 3 heat ranges colder than OEM recommendations seem to have worked quite well over the years.
I see and understand the reason why my Saturn is not happy with platinum thanks to derfs explanation. But it does not complain when I use Champion regular plugs so I will continue using them.
I'm getting closer to getting my Mercury Marine V8 engined Hornet Station wagon ready to fire up. Right now I am working on getting the transmission linkage to the 700R4 automatic hooked up to the Hornet Column shift. If anyone is interested in seeing how it is coming along it can be seen here:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=827fe42953
Anyway, it has been an interesting day!
#9
11-17-2012, 07:32 AM
They used to be very strict here in NJ. But the state is broke. They used to test everything you can imagine including sticking something up the tail pipe. Inspection used to take a long time. But now all they do is hook up to the computer. You could tow the car in with no tires, no lights, no horn and no glass. As long as they could hook up to the computer and get a response you could make it through. The only problem is if you change batteries right before the test it throws a lot of codes. So you have to drive for a few weeks to get it to reset. The best thing is to hook up a jumper to the cables when you change the battery so the computer doesn't lose it's wits.
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