About 7000 miles, 22 mpg, $2.80 a gallon, about $900.00 in gasoline. Worth every dime of it. This is a big country and it's been a long time since I have seen it this way.
Besides I brought an engine home with me and never once stand in my Bare Feet while some incompetant tried to determine if I was a terrorist or not while I tried to fly the Not So Friendly Skys.
As an automotive forum goes though, the words Tune Up used to have a meaning. That was where you replaced wear out parts as needed and adjusted them and refine adjustments so your engine would run another 15,000 miles trouble free. Now a computor controlled car with modern parts can run upwards of 100,000 miles with out being touched except for an air filter every now and then.
And it tunes itself, that is adjusts itself so it can run under existing conditions every time the key is turned on.
Which is why for the most part todays high compression (or higher than they used to be in the '70's) can run on todays sub standard gasolines. Such as 87 octane.
They have the capability of De-Tuning while operating to run on lousy gas and retune while running to run on premium. But what is little addressed, the detuning while letting your engine run on crud gas works, it does in deed run more poorly than it would if you had used better gasoline.
In most cases not particularly noticable, but it can be.
I use 89 octane as a minimum grade. My preference. Running my fully loaded van at leagle speed limit + through the mountains etc. The east has a lot of 93 octane. I can run my muscle car on that with out re-tuning.
Through the Western mountains, 90 octane premium was the best I could get.
I could tell the difference when pulling mountain grades at warp 10 using 90 octane.
Why 90 octane?, midgrade was down to 88 and I would not use it. The bottom regular starts at 87 and goes down. Personally, I use that to wash parts and kill weeds.
To each their own, but tuning a car for performance stopped a long time ago. Some engine computors can be re-tuned with a lap top, others can not but one thing for sure, a screw driver is no longer a valuable tool used for tuning engines.

 

Kind of sad, isn't it. I remember when you could advance or retard your distributor from the drivers seat by a cable similar to a choke cable. Now you have to use a computer to do it. I can't even find the distributor on these newer cars. I see they still sell timing lights though(wonder what they use em for).

 

I worked on a 1956 Ford D600 (?) Tractor while I was in Tennessee. Hand throtle, up draft carburetor, oil bath air cleaner, actually had a 12 volt conversion to a 1 wire GM alternator that was done incredibly poorly. It actually ran quite well, it sort of reminded me of my model A 1930 vintage that actually had the hand operated spark advance and retard and the optional crank that stored under the seat. While I was there the reproduction service manual showed up.
Dang those are handy things to have when you have no clue!