I replaced the rear shocks on the 14 Escape. The upper shock mount is held on by a nut that threads onto a double-ended stud the other end of which threads into a captive nut in the frame.

I used the wrong torque spec when tightening. It survived a good 30 MI before the top of the shock mount literally cracked. One stud was still attached with its nut holding the shock to the vehicle. The other piece of the shock mount and the other stud were nowhere to be found.

I believe I can repair the threads on the one that was still installed, but the captive nut threads were distorted when the stud got ripped out of them. The correct tap is too loose to rethread the existing material, so the threads need to be repaired.

I've purchased a kit with the required drill bit, tap for the drilled out hole, the inserts, the insertion tool, and something to snap off the Tang at the end.

I've never done this before, and if I screw it up, someone has to cut into the frame in the trunk area to gain access to the captive nut as it is not directly accessible.

I know having the drill bit and the tap absolutely aligned with the original direction of the hole is critical. However it sucks because I'm not sure if I can get a tap handle up in there at the top of the shock Tower. I know there are smaller ratcheting ones and I have a set of tap sockets on the way for cleaning out the threads on the other hole.

Appreciate any and all advice for completing this properly the first time, since I don't and I don't want to pay anyone else to fix my **** up. Plus, it's pretty critical safety wise where it is, so I am in no way taking this lightly.

@02 LW300 , as a Ford man, why does Ford use these double-ended studs for upper shock mounts? Is it because they have just enough give when the nut is torqued properly to 18 ft pounds that the shock assembly can absorb a bit of forward and rearward impact without snapping anything off? Does it also have to do with vibration isolation by physically isolating the shock assembly from the frame?

Thank you for advice and insight

 

I have never used a helicoil in anything other than a spark plug hole on a motorcycle, derf. I WISH I could advise you on this one but don't have a clue. Hopefully Andy will offer some sage advice. Rust screws up a lot of things, doesn't it?

 

Slow and straight are the key issues. I rarely use tap handles, I have a couple sets of tap sockets. On of the sets has a die socket which is also handy. Once drilled to the oversize, tap the hole slowly. The critical part is installing the insert straight and slow. 18 ft/lbs is the standard Ford torque for an 8mm bolt or nut.

 

Thank you, Andy.
I did order a set of tap sockets as there is no room to work way up at the top of that rear wheel well. All the other operations up there I have done blind, but that will certainly not be the case with this. I put a complete kit with drill bit, tap coils installation tool. Haven't looked at how it works yet but like you said, slow and straight are the keys. I now have the joy of a tremor in both hands and I hold my head on a slight tilt due to issues with my neck muscles. So everything I look at that looks level to me is actually about 5° off. Don't ever hire me to hang pictures in your house.

Again, thank you for the advice.
I will of course follow up with the results
Good night

 

Well that was easy.
I always thought it was much more complicated in terms of getting it just right. I finally understand what keeps the inserted coil in place.

 

It is easy until you screw up. 😀 Then you have created an even bigger problem. Glad you are back together!

 

As is Ford's way, I can't simply spin the nut onto the stud, hold it with an E7, and torque it to spec.
Nope..,.. no room to work. Have to use a pass through socket and pass through extension and Crowfoot the extension to have enough room to move the torque wrench.

FYI, gear wrench pass through socket sets are sold through the gear ratchet line. It is a legit company tied to gear wrench but the box says made in China by Apex tools. Things are too loosey-goosey for my liking and it will be going back as soon as I can use it once no twice no four times. Any recommendations on a brand of pass-thrus that are as good as at least old craftsman was? As in not perfect but sufficient 99% of the time.

Just a general question to add here so that I don't start another thread of pointless meandering..

Does a matco/mac/snapon ratchet have zero slop in the ratcheting mechanism, meaning no lateral or up or down flex? Does the same brand of quarter inch extension that is 6 in Long wave around when attached to the ratchet? Is an 18 mm Crowfoot exactly 18 mm from these companies? Everything has always had slop in it and no none of its perfect. But aside from the immediate replacement policy, is that the other driver for professionals to use these brands? Are the two dimensions truly exact? I know stacking five different things ahead of the ratchet is going to be unstable. Just wondering if it is less an issue with the higher end tools.

 

I wouldn't put a lot of thought into it, derf. 18 ft.lbs of torque in minimal. As long as you snug it, you'll be okay. Hell, your spartk plugs take more torque than that. I haven't used a torque wrench on plugs or small bolts in over 50 years. I snug them until I think they're tight enough and leave them alone.

 

My question about tool quality still stands.
Just rounded off a brand new nut with my supposedly only used three times 15 mm Crowfoot. No it was not a 14 mm nut

 

75% of my tools are SnapOn. I have owned some of them 50 years.