I buy a lot of parts from Rock Auto, The freight is a consideration but parts that you can wait for are always cheaper than a parts house.

 

Interesting comment about rock auto.....

I think it all comes down to literally what you are ordering and where the particular warehouse it is shipping from is located.

At least for s cars, the parts were always $10 cheaper for the identical OEM part, but the shipping cost would eat up 80% of the savings. Now it eats up 100% of the savings. RockAuto shipping to where I live more than offsets the savings on the parts price, so I have taken to GM parts giant as it seems the shipping locations are closer to me and therefore the shipping charges are less.

I'm pretty sure RockAuto dropships a lot of stuff as well. The problem sneaks in when they are dropshipping three different parts from three different locations. You end up having to pay three times the shipping minimum cost. I always check RockAuto, but whatever works I go with.

 

I always heard rock auto specifically does not service the state of colorado, anyway. For the internet, I have always used ebay, it is what I know. the timing chain and sprockets should arrive on 10/7, and cost 111, including shipping.

 

I sure hope that set comes with the gaskets. I'm pretty sure that it will, but with vendors being so money hungry nowadays, I had to ask.

 

The gaskets were leaking. Getting it ready to replace one of them is how I found the chain was loose. They will arrive long before that chain gets here...

 

Cool. If the new chain set comes with gaskets, then you'll have backups.

 

I replaced the timing chain, fixed the coolant leaks, and got it running, but after I replaced the broken accelerator pump, it started squeaking, and knocking. The new, yet very dirty oil now has metal shavings in it. The oil pressure light works normally, turning off after a few seconds of cranking. I think that either the oil pressure sending unit is too sensitive, one of the oil passages was clogged when it ran after building sludge for 40 years, or something else is wrong with this 60 year old engine that I did not think of.

I think replacing the rod bearings might solve the problem, could it be something else?

 

Metal shavings in oil?

Eek..
​​​​​​
Need to find that before you turn the key again I would think

 

Drop the oil pan and take a rod bearing loose. Odds are pretty good that since it sat so long that when you cranked it, you just had bearing to journal contact without any oil cushion between the two. I'd pull a main bearing cap too and have a look at the mains. You may need to put a crank kit in it if they're all scored.

 

I checked compression, and oil pressure. compression was within 20 PSI of 120, probably good enough at 7000 feet. oil pressure while cranking without spark plugs got to about 3 PSI after 15 cycles or 30 revolutions, and eventually got to 4, but never got higher than that.
Is 3-4 PSI normal for an engine made in 1964 cranking without spark plugs?