Broken Fibula by Ankle, Shattered Rear Glass
#11
02-19-2017, 07:00 AM
The swelling is because blood pools in your lower extremities. This will happen for a while as the blood collects to help protect the joint. The ankle is a very complex joint with so many moving parts. The swelling is normal. If there was no swelling, then there's reason for concern. As much as I hate to tell you, you have at least four more weeks of swelling to look forward to.
#13
02-20-2017, 06:31 AM
It's all a process, man. I am having a foot surgery on Thursday morning. Minor thing called bone spurs FINALLY being removed. Doc says I should be fully recovered in 3 weeks time.
#16
02-25-2017, 06:48 PM
Well, just corrected my thread title to reflect broken FIBULA (smaller bone on the outside of the ankle), not tibia (the big one in the middle). Doctor misspoke; went back and looked at the CT scans and indeed the fracture can be seen on the CT scan ( I do not have a copy of the x rays).
Swelling is significantly reduced and I am up and around for a few hours bearing almost full weight on it for about a week. However, the pain I have not had all week is starting to return in very specific locations, so I will be laying low this coming week.
Swelling is significantly reduced and I am up and around for a few hours bearing almost full weight on it for about a week. However, the pain I have not had all week is starting to return in very specific locations, so I will be laying low this coming week.
#17
02-25-2017, 06:54 PM
Got the rear glass replaced on the 97SC2. Safelite had the glass in a warehouse in Vegas.
Whack design. Experienced installer (8 yrs) said he had never seen anything designed this way.
Will clean up to make a sticky but for now:
1) The side molding for the glass runs from the base of the rear glass to the base of the windshield ---ONE LONG PIECE. It is held in by screws which are hidden deep inside a channel of the molding such that you must pry open and distort the channel shape while getting a long Phillips driver bit onto the head of each screw. The screws are not terribly strongly magnetized so you can't let the screw come off the bit while removing or you need to go fishing with a super-magnet-on-a-stick tool.
2) Both taillights need to be removed from the car.
3) The back end of the rear quarter panels must be flexed outward in order to be able to place the glass into the position it must rest, sufficiently centered that the side trim pieces, when reattached, will provide lateral stability when reattached. Dry fitting is a must.
4) on each side, 2 10 mm bolts must be removed from inside the cavity where the tail light sits -- one holds the quarter-panel to the rear bumper from behind. The other also holds the quarter-panel to the side "skirt" of the bumper cover which wraps around the from the back to the under each corner panel on each side.
5) Two more 10 mm bolts must be removed. One is in the aforementioned cavity on the top and presumably holds the quarter panel to the frame. The other bolt is nearest the front "corner" of the trunk opening on each side. Once these 4 bolts have been removed, there is enough play in the panel position to use one hand to hold the top edge of the quarter-panel back and the other to hold the glass with a glass suction grip.
6 After the bead of adhesive is laid down, with the rearmost upper part of the quarter-panel being held out of the way, the glass is lowered over the opening but must be shifted under the front lip of a half open trunk lid in order to get the top of the glass aligned and seated within the top seal trim.
7) Once seated on the adhesive and resting on the bottom edge stops, the long molding strips must be rapidly put in place. They must be screwed down only in the area of the door opening where they are freely accessible so that the strips are attached and the location of the ends become fixed. This is done as quickly as possible on both sides.
Note: The glass actually rests in a channel of the trim piece. Because the trim is eventually screwed down, this side trim provides final location and side support for the rear glass.
8) Once both side trim pieces are fitted to the glass, the rest of the screws are put in to secure the trim pieces, working from the center to the ends. This sounds trivial, but in real life, the screws are all at wonky angles and you must again pry an opening for insertion of the screw. However, as you are doing so, you are also forcing the trim piece up and out of alignment. This is a two person job unless you have incredibly strong hands. The screws are short and if you don't catch the hole with the tip of the screw, you need to walk it along the rubber which is not trivial or give up, let it fall in the channel, retrieve with a magnetic tool, and start anew.
9) Once all screws are in place, check to be sure that the inner edge of the trim along the roof line is tucked in so it will function properly as a rain channel. Also be sure that the rearmost trim (corner/point) of the rear triangular window is properly overlapped where it meets the long trim piece just installed.
Time to replace (counting cleaning of remainder of broken glass in trim piece), figuring out how every thing fit together and the order of steps, general post job vacuuming of glass micro-shards): !:45.
-----
I wanted to include pictures since none of this seems to be documented on the net, but I quickly became the second pair of hands during disassembly and reassembly and it just couldn't happen.
Whack design. Experienced installer (8 yrs) said he had never seen anything designed this way.
Will clean up to make a sticky but for now:
1) The side molding for the glass runs from the base of the rear glass to the base of the windshield ---ONE LONG PIECE. It is held in by screws which are hidden deep inside a channel of the molding such that you must pry open and distort the channel shape while getting a long Phillips driver bit onto the head of each screw. The screws are not terribly strongly magnetized so you can't let the screw come off the bit while removing or you need to go fishing with a super-magnet-on-a-stick tool.
2) Both taillights need to be removed from the car.
3) The back end of the rear quarter panels must be flexed outward in order to be able to place the glass into the position it must rest, sufficiently centered that the side trim pieces, when reattached, will provide lateral stability when reattached. Dry fitting is a must.
4) on each side, 2 10 mm bolts must be removed from inside the cavity where the tail light sits -- one holds the quarter-panel to the rear bumper from behind. The other also holds the quarter-panel to the side "skirt" of the bumper cover which wraps around the from the back to the under each corner panel on each side.
5) Two more 10 mm bolts must be removed. One is in the aforementioned cavity on the top and presumably holds the quarter panel to the frame. The other bolt is nearest the front "corner" of the trunk opening on each side. Once these 4 bolts have been removed, there is enough play in the panel position to use one hand to hold the top edge of the quarter-panel back and the other to hold the glass with a glass suction grip.
6 After the bead of adhesive is laid down, with the rearmost upper part of the quarter-panel being held out of the way, the glass is lowered over the opening but must be shifted under the front lip of a half open trunk lid in order to get the top of the glass aligned and seated within the top seal trim.
7) Once seated on the adhesive and resting on the bottom edge stops, the long molding strips must be rapidly put in place. They must be screwed down only in the area of the door opening where they are freely accessible so that the strips are attached and the location of the ends become fixed. This is done as quickly as possible on both sides.
Note: The glass actually rests in a channel of the trim piece. Because the trim is eventually screwed down, this side trim provides final location and side support for the rear glass.
8) Once both side trim pieces are fitted to the glass, the rest of the screws are put in to secure the trim pieces, working from the center to the ends. This sounds trivial, but in real life, the screws are all at wonky angles and you must again pry an opening for insertion of the screw. However, as you are doing so, you are also forcing the trim piece up and out of alignment. This is a two person job unless you have incredibly strong hands. The screws are short and if you don't catch the hole with the tip of the screw, you need to walk it along the rubber which is not trivial or give up, let it fall in the channel, retrieve with a magnetic tool, and start anew.
9) Once all screws are in place, check to be sure that the inner edge of the trim along the roof line is tucked in so it will function properly as a rain channel. Also be sure that the rearmost trim (corner/point) of the rear triangular window is properly overlapped where it meets the long trim piece just installed.
Time to replace (counting cleaning of remainder of broken glass in trim piece), figuring out how every thing fit together and the order of steps, general post job vacuuming of glass micro-shards): !:45.
-----
I wanted to include pictures since none of this seems to be documented on the net, but I quickly became the second pair of hands during disassembly and reassembly and it just couldn't happen.
#18
02-26-2017, 08:59 AM
Well, I had my foot surgery Thursday morning and it was more complicated than expected. Doc said bone spurs and MAYBE a joint replacement. He had to replace the entire long joint in my big toe, due to deterioration. Damned thing feels like it's on fire all of the time now. I'll go back and see him on Tuesday and see what he has to say about it.I am finding it very hard to believe that I'll be fully recovered in 3 weeks. Keeping a low profile for now as I'm using the wifes laptop and hate this thing.