My car is leaking oil really bad
#1
08-07-2017, 01:58 AM
My car is leaking oil really bad
My 1996 Saturn is leaking oil an smoking bad out the back pipes an under the hood because the oil touching the engine its also running hot I have to keep pouring water or either an antifreeze in it an it stay cool for a min but right back running hot I was told that it was running hot cause of the motor in my fan went out then I replaced the motor in the fan an it steal doesn't come on unless I turn on the air an the blows out misty air not sure what to do am a female so anyone who could explain what's going on please break it down to the lowest term please an thank you
#2
08-07-2017, 03:30 AM
1) How much oil is this car going through per 100 mi?
2) How much antifreeze /50/50 water mix is car going through in 100 mi?
3) When the car is cold and you pull the oil dipstick out to check the level, does it look like a milkshake?
4) When the car is cold and you open up the coolant reservoir near the passenger front of the car, does it look green, orange, or like a milkshake?
The fan always comes on when the AC is turned on. If the fan does not come on when the engine heats way up with the AC off, the coolant temperature sensor or the connector or wiring is defective. Usually the failed sensor ruins the connector so you replace both.
HOWEVER, if you are losing that much oil AND that much coolant, I need the answers to the above to determine what is wrong
2) How much antifreeze /50/50 water mix is car going through in 100 mi?
3) When the car is cold and you pull the oil dipstick out to check the level, does it look like a milkshake?
4) When the car is cold and you open up the coolant reservoir near the passenger front of the car, does it look green, orange, or like a milkshake?
The fan always comes on when the AC is turned on. If the fan does not come on when the engine heats way up with the AC off, the coolant temperature sensor or the connector or wiring is defective. Usually the failed sensor ruins the connector so you replace both.
HOWEVER, if you are losing that much oil AND that much coolant, I need the answers to the above to determine what is wrong
#3
08-07-2017, 03:35 AM
so you live in Georgia, across the pond? Not too many Saturns there......
yet you registered from the eastern US TIME ZONE
??
Are you in the country or the STATE of Georgia?
yet you registered from the eastern US TIME ZONE
??
Are you in the country or the STATE of Georgia?
Last edited by derf; 08-07-2017 at 03:37 AM.
#4
08-07-2017, 03:42 AM
1) How much oil is this car going through per 100 mi?
2) How much antifreeze /50/50 water mix is car going through in 100 mi?
3) When the car is cold and you pull the oil dipstick out to check the level, does it look like a milkshake?
4) When the car is cold and you open up the coolant reservoir near the passenger front of the car, does it look green, orange, or like a milkshake?
The fan always comes on when the AC is turned on. If the fan does not come on when the engine heats way up with the AC off, the coolant temperature sensor or the connector or wiring is defective. Usually the failed sensor ruins the connector so you replace both.
HOWEVER, if you are losing that much oil AND that much coolant, I need the answers to the above to determine what is wrong
2) How much antifreeze /50/50 water mix is car going through in 100 mi?
3) When the car is cold and you pull the oil dipstick out to check the level, does it look like a milkshake?
4) When the car is cold and you open up the coolant reservoir near the passenger front of the car, does it look green, orange, or like a milkshake?
The fan always comes on when the AC is turned on. If the fan does not come on when the engine heats way up with the AC off, the coolant temperature sensor or the connector or wiring is defective. Usually the failed sensor ruins the connector so you replace both.
HOWEVER, if you are losing that much oil AND that much coolant, I need the answers to the above to determine what is wrong
Last edited by Lashaytrice; 08-07-2017 at 03:50 AM.
#6
08-07-2017, 03:55 AM
<br />no I haven't seen anything of that sort keep in mind this my 1st car am only 23 year old an yes am in Atlanta, GA
Last edited by Lashaytrice; 08-07-2017 at 03:59 AM.
#7
08-07-2017, 04:34 AM
I will keep that in mind now that you just told me 
1) The oil under the hood is likely leaking past a gasket between the valve cover and the cylinder head. Called a valve cover or cam cover gasket.
2) You already fixed the aux cooling fan, which should come on
a) when the AC is on (by design)
b) when the coolant temperature sensor tells the car's computer things are getting too hot. Your coolant temperature sensor or its connector or both are defective. that is why the new fan won't kick on with the AC off -- it is never telling the car's computer that it is too hot.
3) Black smoke out the tailpipe means oil is getting into the cylinders and burning.
This happens from the bottom when oil gets past the rings, and from the top, when oil gets past some seals that are part of the valves that open and close.
If you are seeing significant smoke, your engine may be literally worn out or you may have burned a hole in a piston or melted off a piece of a valve so that things don't seal anymore.
As for where THAT MUCH coolant is going, I would say you'd HAVE TO be able to see it if it is an external leak. The radiators on these cars tend to leak near where they are mounted to the car. Other leaks can be traced by letting the engine heat up and tracing the sickly sweet smell of antifreeze. That and looking for the puddle on the ground. I suppose it is possible your reservoir tank has a pin hole in it from rubbing on the frame or that the cap is no longer holding pressure.
Also, check the exhaust at the tailpipe by putting your hand close enough to get some deposits on it, then smell your hand---if you just stick your face in there you might burn your face or your hair. If you smell that sickly sweet smell of hot antifreeze....
Then that pretty much convinces me that the head gasket is failing. When it completely goes, you usually end up with a plume of white smoke out the tailpipe.
At this point, your engine has almost no coolant in it. If you keep driving it that way ,you will destroy the engine.
The head gasket among other things, keeps the coolant and oil from mixing When the head gasket blows you end up with contaminated oil that doesn't lubricate properly and a mix of oil, coolant, and gas burning in the cylinders, depleting the oil and coolant.
Driving with a blown head gasket is a death wish.
THe question you need to ask yourself is: does it make sense to sink $$ into this 21 yr old car that prob has 190K and a worn out engine, or take your money and spend it on something else.
Trust me, parts are becoming scarce. I own a 97 SC2 and maintain a 95 SC2
If you can have someone come over and do a compression test on the cylinders, that will give us a good indication of engine health.
But it does not look good.
And don't let it actually over heat...that causes issues of its own
If you have to, sell it on Craigslist as a running car needs head gasket blah blah blah. It's up to the buyer to decide if he likes what he sees. You'd be surprised at the market for these old s cars. They are easy and cheap to rebuild
1) The oil under the hood is likely leaking past a gasket between the valve cover and the cylinder head. Called a valve cover or cam cover gasket.
2) You already fixed the aux cooling fan, which should come on
a) when the AC is on (by design)
b) when the coolant temperature sensor tells the car's computer things are getting too hot. Your coolant temperature sensor or its connector or both are defective. that is why the new fan won't kick on with the AC off -- it is never telling the car's computer that it is too hot.
3) Black smoke out the tailpipe means oil is getting into the cylinders and burning.
This happens from the bottom when oil gets past the rings, and from the top, when oil gets past some seals that are part of the valves that open and close.
If you are seeing significant smoke, your engine may be literally worn out or you may have burned a hole in a piston or melted off a piece of a valve so that things don't seal anymore.
As for where THAT MUCH coolant is going, I would say you'd HAVE TO be able to see it if it is an external leak. The radiators on these cars tend to leak near where they are mounted to the car. Other leaks can be traced by letting the engine heat up and tracing the sickly sweet smell of antifreeze. That and looking for the puddle on the ground. I suppose it is possible your reservoir tank has a pin hole in it from rubbing on the frame or that the cap is no longer holding pressure.
Also, check the exhaust at the tailpipe by putting your hand close enough to get some deposits on it, then smell your hand---if you just stick your face in there you might burn your face or your hair. If you smell that sickly sweet smell of hot antifreeze....
Then that pretty much convinces me that the head gasket is failing. When it completely goes, you usually end up with a plume of white smoke out the tailpipe.
At this point, your engine has almost no coolant in it. If you keep driving it that way ,you will destroy the engine.
The head gasket among other things, keeps the coolant and oil from mixing When the head gasket blows you end up with contaminated oil that doesn't lubricate properly and a mix of oil, coolant, and gas burning in the cylinders, depleting the oil and coolant.
Driving with a blown head gasket is a death wish.
THe question you need to ask yourself is: does it make sense to sink $$ into this 21 yr old car that prob has 190K and a worn out engine, or take your money and spend it on something else.
Trust me, parts are becoming scarce. I own a 97 SC2 and maintain a 95 SC2
If you can have someone come over and do a compression test on the cylinders, that will give us a good indication of engine health.
But it does not look good.
And don't let it actually over heat...that causes issues of its own
If you have to, sell it on Craigslist as a running car needs head gasket blah blah blah. It's up to the buyer to decide if he likes what he sees. You'd be surprised at the market for these old s cars. They are easy and cheap to rebuild
Last edited by derf; 08-07-2017 at 04:38 AM.
#9
08-07-2017, 04:47 AM
about how much you think it will cost to rebuild it an if I can't get it fix I was just going to crush it an I haven't drove it except when I got it sealed an left it parked an or I can get all the parts I need Frm the pull a part for cheap will the job easy to fix or its a lot of work
#10
08-07-2017, 05:05 AM
you are probably looking at a complete rebuild, as any engine you find (I think it can be a 93 or 94) will have nearly the same mileage so that doesn't accomplish anything but give you limited drivability until that bites the dust. It will likely burn oil too. But not as much as yours. Junkyard engines for S cars are maybe $400? Not installed.
A car knowing friend with the right tools can swap it in.
Before we put the horse in front of the cart, is there anything else wrong with the car? Body damage? Ripped up interior? Broken taillights? Things that don't work right?
Spending all your money on a compatible junkyard engine if you can even find one makes no sense if the frame is rusting out, the strut towers are rusted out, half the rear quarter panel is missing, and all the tires are bald...I think you get my drift.
A rebuild of your current engine requires specialized tools and advanced knowledge for it to be a DIY. Otherwise $2000 and it is totally not worth it.
Trust me. List it for $500 on craiglist and you will get talked down to $300. Send $100 to me for the diag (JUST KIDDING) $300 is not chump change and if someone else buys it, it's one or more Saturns kept on the road (that's how us diehards view it)
Seriously. do a loan a tool from Autozone or similar for the compression tester and have a car knowledgeable friend help you with it. Read up on the correct way to do it --lord knows there are 689 wrong ways. Post the results and we'll go from there.
Gnite
A car knowing friend with the right tools can swap it in.
Before we put the horse in front of the cart, is there anything else wrong with the car? Body damage? Ripped up interior? Broken taillights? Things that don't work right?
Spending all your money on a compatible junkyard engine if you can even find one makes no sense if the frame is rusting out, the strut towers are rusted out, half the rear quarter panel is missing, and all the tires are bald...I think you get my drift.
A rebuild of your current engine requires specialized tools and advanced knowledge for it to be a DIY. Otherwise $2000 and it is totally not worth it.
Trust me. List it for $500 on craiglist and you will get talked down to $300. Send $100 to me for the diag (JUST KIDDING) $300 is not chump change and if someone else buys it, it's one or more Saturns kept on the road (that's how us diehards view it)
Seriously. do a loan a tool from Autozone or similar for the compression tester and have a car knowledgeable friend help you with it. Read up on the correct way to do it --lord knows there are 689 wrong ways. Post the results and we'll go from there.
Gnite
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