I have a 2001 Saturn SC2 with a locked ignition cylinder. The tumblers appear to have fallen out of place, so I needed to get it repaired. However, Saturn is no more so I had to call GM dealers to take care of the problem. All dealerships that I called told me that there was nothing that I could do to just replace the cylinder because the key would not turn. Instead, I would need to get it drilled out and then put a new one. This didn't seem like a bad option except for the fact that it was going to cost me anywhere from 1000-1500 in parts and labor.

I started looking around and found a different steering column and key. So I decided to go with the replacement of the entire steering column rather than just the ignition.

My question is, do I need to know anything particular about changing this out? Will the ignition need to be programmed to the car? And does anyone have any pictures or a DIY on the replacement? I have been searching without a single shred of help for the past 4 hours.

Thank you for any help that you guys can provide me.

 

Update:
I got the new steering column in. Removing the airbag from the old steering wheel was really the only issue. However, now that I have everything in and everything connected, I still cannot start the car.

I have triple checked to make sure that all wiring is connected. The key does turn this time, but when I turn it, nothing happens. I don't even get any lights on the dash. I am still able to get power to the radio (just the clock), lights and hazards. Normally I would say that this was a case of a bad battery, but with all other lights working, I would expect the lights on the dash to work.

Anyone know what else could cause this?

 

I know this is a foolish question/comment, but did your replacement steering column come from a 2001 SC2 ???

 

Yes, it came from the same type of car... same model and year. The steering column is identical to the one replaced.

Another update:
I just found out that the car actually died before the key got stuck. When the key was turned prior to getting stuck, there was nothing. The outside lights would work, which indicated a good battery, but there was no sound from the radio or lights on the inside. The door locks work, which would also indicate that the battery is fine.

Possibly a fuse? I checked the fuse box under the hood and all fuses are good. Is there another fuse box somewhere else or something else that I should be looking for?

 

Look on the center console - on the passanger's side of the car - you should find a panel there. Behind it is the Instrument Panel Junction Block (IPJB) along with the associated fuses....

 

Okay, so I checked all the fuses that I could find and there was only one that was blown. That was the cigarette lighter fuse which, obviously, had nothing to do with the instrument panel.

I have taken all the fuses out and checked them with a multimeter just to make sure that they were still good. Everything checks out fine. What else could it be?

 

The start circuit is supplied power from the ignition fuse, a 30 Amp fuse from the fuse block under the hood.
The ignition run circuit is supplied power from the Ignition Run fuse a 10 Amp fuse from the WP fuse block behind the center of the dash as is the Body Control Module Fuse, a 10 AMP fuse.
Your interior lights are controlled by the Body Control Module (BCM) located behind the left side of the dash.

 

When you say the center of the dash, I am assuming you mean the fuse box that is located inside the vehicle in the center console. The same one mentioned previously.

All fuses test good. I have taken each one out, inspected them and also test continuity on them. All are functioning properly. I have not, however, tested what fuses are getting power. I have tried, but this seems futile seeing how when I turn the key, nothing happens.

Any other idea?

 

When you say the center of the dash, I am assuming you mean the fuse box that is located inside the vehicle in the center console. The same one mentioned previously.

All fuses test good. I have taken each one out, inspected them and also test continuity on them. All are functioning properly. I have not, however, tested what fuses are getting power. I have tried, but this seems futile seeing how when I turn the key, nothing happens.

Any other idea?
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Well, yuh, but before one can go a whole lot further there has to be a realization take place the electronically your Saturn is quite complex. A simplistic statement such as the key turns and nothing happens does not really cover the symptoms unless you have a definition as to what exactly nothing is and what it is that should be happening.
There are a hand full of computers that run that car along with smart boards with in subassemblies some of which are in turn linked or locked into the operation of other parts of the car.
It sounds to some extent that the Body Computer may not be functioning. If the car were mine I would be checking to see if there is power at the following;
Body computer fuse, 10 Amp Hot all the time
Body Fuse, 10 Amp, Hot all the time.
Ignition 1 fuse, 10 Amp Hot in Run or Start Mode.
These fuses are located in the I/P Fuse Block which the service literature I have refers to as the center of the dash, but the pictorial reference shows that to be the passenger side of the console.
The problem becomes at this point in time if there is no power there under the conditions indicated then why isn’t there?
And if there is power there under the conditions indicated where do you go next and with out a wiring diagram to show the interconnections involved including ground connections than what are you looking for.
So I would kind of suggest that you go by a Checkers or O’Riley or Autozone and invest what ever it takes to purchase a servicing manual with electrical diagrams so you can chase these things down.
If you have a meter and it sounds like you do but if you don’t you can buy a serviceable digital voltmeter from Harbor Freight for $2.00 on sale if you watch for it or under $6.00 normal price which is more than adequate to get the job done.
It would also help a bit if there were a list of things that did not work AND the conditions under which they did not work such as.
Key in Run Mode
followed by
A list of observations from the dashboard, dome lights, locks and windows. Along with the voltage readings at those 3 fuses.
It sounds a bit like something catastrophic took place before or in conjunction with the failure of the ignition switch mechanically.
It could be no more than a broken wire some where shutting down something like the body computer or something is shorted out along with a fried computer

 

Alright, I will go check those three fuses and get the voltage readings. I know that they are good because the continuity is there. But I didn't check the voltages, due to the fact that I wasn't really sure what ones SHOULD be hot and ones should not.

Here is what happened to the car -
Car was in an automatic car wash running just fine; my wife was the driver. The car wash finished, my wife put the car in drive and the car died. When I heard this the first time, I was under the impression that the engine just died. It wasn't until recently that she informed me that "died" in her car language means "no power anywhere".

After a few attempts at trying to restart the car, the key stuck in the off position. The key could be removed from, and inserted into the ignition lock cylinder, but could not turn. This meant that I needed to get a new cylinder. This is usually a fairly simple task... simply put the key in, turn, press the release button located on the bottom of the lock and pull. However, in order for this to work, the key must turn.

The rest of the story is in the first post.
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The car, at this point, has power to the following:
Horn
Lights (Brake, Fog and Headlamps)
Locks
Radio has power to the clock
Hazards
Chime that tells driver the lights are on with no key inserted
I would check the dome light, but the car is lacking one.

So, it appears that the car has power everywhere it should WITHOUT a key. Meaning, I am under the impression that these items should function if you do not have a key in the ignition.

When the key is inserted in the ignition and turned, you should get the following:
Audio from the radio
Dash board illumination
Power window function
Power to engine functions (fuel pump, etc...)

But none of these things happen. It's like the key was never inserted at all. The problem may, in fact be with a computer as you have stated, but I am hoping than that. Regardless, the car is not recognizing that the key has been inserted.

Thank you so much for your help so far, I really do appreciate it. I will check those fuses and go get that manual. I will give you more of an update tonight.