Starter issues
#1
05-12-2018, 10:22 AM
Starter issues
Hello Everyone!
i have used the knowlege of the forum many times in the past, but i have come across an issue that i don’t think has been described before.
i have a 2001 saturn sl1, that shut down while driving down thw highway. I had it towed to an autoparts store thinking the battery was dead, and sure enough it was. Replaced the battery and tried turning it on and it cranked for a couple seconds and just went to a low hum. Continued to try and the same thing kept happening. I have replaced the starter as per my mechanic friends reccommendation. The car cranks continuously now, but still won’t start. I replaced the ingnition coils and the modules last year, so i assume they are not the culprit. The only other symptom i’ve noticed is that the 10v EIS fuse keeps blowing when i try to turn thw car over. Did I damage the starter or cross some wire when i installed it, or are these independant issues?
any help would be greatly appreciated!
i have used the knowlege of the forum many times in the past, but i have come across an issue that i don’t think has been described before.
i have a 2001 saturn sl1, that shut down while driving down thw highway. I had it towed to an autoparts store thinking the battery was dead, and sure enough it was. Replaced the battery and tried turning it on and it cranked for a couple seconds and just went to a low hum. Continued to try and the same thing kept happening. I have replaced the starter as per my mechanic friends reccommendation. The car cranks continuously now, but still won’t start. I replaced the ingnition coils and the modules last year, so i assume they are not the culprit. The only other symptom i’ve noticed is that the 10v EIS fuse keeps blowing when i try to turn thw car over. Did I damage the starter or cross some wire when i installed it, or are these independant issues?
any help would be greatly appreciated!
#2
05-13-2018, 09:12 AM
EIS fuse on key turn is the culprit I do believe.
often when a Saturn s car stalls mid drive, the crankshaft position sensor (CKP) has failed. However, with the EIS fuse blowing on every key turn, the ignition system is being disabled the instant that fuse blows.
Do you have any service engine soon light codes? Is the service engine soon light on?
If so, go to AutoZone or similar and get codes read for free. Post as Pxxxx where xxxx is a four digit number.
Was the fuse blowing before the coils and ignition module was replaced? We're they replaced with new or used parts?
often when a Saturn s car stalls mid drive, the crankshaft position sensor (CKP) has failed. However, with the EIS fuse blowing on every key turn, the ignition system is being disabled the instant that fuse blows.
Do you have any service engine soon light codes? Is the service engine soon light on?
If so, go to AutoZone or similar and get codes read for free. Post as Pxxxx where xxxx is a four digit number.
Was the fuse blowing before the coils and ignition module was replaced? We're they replaced with new or used parts?
#3
05-13-2018, 02:19 PM
Starter issues
Thank you for the reply derf,
I have just replaced the crankshaft position sensor, and it is still not turning over. Not surprisingly, there is no spark coming from the plugs (tested with a spare). The fuse blowing is something new. I replaced the ignition coils and ignition module (all three new from autozone/advance) because of a firing issue during running causing knocking and a rough idle.
There was no engine code at the time i replaced the battery, which was the day it died while driving. Since then, i cannot get it started it is not clear if there is one now.
I think it might be time to see a professional....
I have just replaced the crankshaft position sensor, and it is still not turning over. Not surprisingly, there is no spark coming from the plugs (tested with a spare). The fuse blowing is something new. I replaced the ignition coils and ignition module (all three new from autozone/advance) because of a firing issue during running causing knocking and a rough idle.
There was no engine code at the time i replaced the battery, which was the day it died while driving. Since then, i cannot get it started it is not clear if there is one now.
I think it might be time to see a professional....
#4
05-16-2018, 10:34 PM
I need to.consult my schematics to.see what is on that fuse.
autozone s notorious for shayt quality electrical parts. For all we know the ignition module under the coils could have an internal.short. .
Also, never assume something is good just because it is newish. New things can arrive DOA, or just be of inferior quality
Can't hurt to try the original ignition module with the new coils while I peruse schematics tomorrow.
autozone s notorious for shayt quality electrical parts. For all we know the ignition module under the coils could have an internal.short. .
Also, never assume something is good just because it is newish. New things can arrive DOA, or just be of inferior quality
Can't hurt to try the original ignition module with the new coils while I peruse schematics tomorrow.
Last edited by derf; 05-16-2018 at 10:37 PM.
#5
05-17-2018, 06:51 AM
You are correct derf. The problem was the ignition coils and module. After replacement, they car starts fine now. All three were purchased from Autozone/Advance and, as you said they were shayt electrical parts. Thank you for all of your help!
#6
05-17-2018, 07:12 AM
Glad to help.
For future reference, I believe from consulting schematics this morning that an ICM short to ground or a shorted coil was the issue (have never seen one in an s car but the Autozone factor was in play. The module has a 12v always hot lead and its own grounds, but depending on which part of the circuit engaged at key turn....
For yucks measure. The resistance across the terminals of each coil
For future reference, I believe from consulting schematics this morning that an ICM short to ground or a shorted coil was the issue (have never seen one in an s car but the Autozone factor was in play. The module has a 12v always hot lead and its own grounds, but depending on which part of the circuit engaged at key turn....
For yucks measure. The resistance across the terminals of each coil
#8
05-17-2018, 10:38 PM
And that's why I buy AC- Delco if it is available. Even the reduced quality and overseas manufacture of most of their parts seems to still be at least a notch above the rest.
Some parts it doesn't matter that much, but I believe I still have the original ICM and coils in my 97 SC2. Not much for them to do besides short out, go open circuit, or do that "blip cutout thing" mid drive on the 95 SC2..
Was it you, Andy who said you only use Napa for electrical parts?
Some parts it doesn't matter that much, but I believe I still have the original ICM and coils in my 97 SC2. Not much for them to do besides short out, go open circuit, or do that "blip cutout thing" mid drive on the 95 SC2..
Was it you, Andy who said you only use Napa for electrical parts?
#9
05-18-2018, 08:57 AM
Having worked for both Autozone and Advance in the past, I WILL NOT and DO NOT RECOMMEND any electrical parts from either. It might have been me, derf, that suggested NAPA for the electrical parts. I've had much better luck with their stuff than the others. I've not bought any electrical parts from O'Reilly, so don't know if their stuff is as crappy as the others. I purchase most of my parts from O'Reilly now, but not electrical.
#10
05-18-2018, 09:42 AM
You do realize that Napa and the others do not make auto parts. They are retailers for various manufacturing companies. Unfortunately the parts carry their name so you cannot tell the manufacturer. Often times the only difference between the parts with the two year warranty and the lifetime warranty is only the price. They charge you more for peace of mind. I don’t expect aftermarket parts to last like OEM parts. I get irritated when I have problems with OEM parts.
