smoking engine
#1
05-07-2010, 05:51 AM
smoking engine
It seems every time my son trade cars I have to learn how to work on them. Thank God for the internet.
Here's the story on this car.
98 SL2, 150K, twin cam 1.9, it had an over heating problem, turned out to be head gasket, changed out gasket with new timing chain and guides. Got it back together and car ran great.
The problem; it's using oil, does not smoke until you add oil to engine then will smoke for about 5 mins. But under normal use it does not smoke unless it is so faint you can't see it. It does seem to have a lot of blow-by but no smoke in blow-by.
My question is, could the head be cracked causing a large amount of blow-by and oil burning?
Here's the story on this car.
98 SL2, 150K, twin cam 1.9, it had an over heating problem, turned out to be head gasket, changed out gasket with new timing chain and guides. Got it back together and car ran great.
The problem; it's using oil, does not smoke until you add oil to engine then will smoke for about 5 mins. But under normal use it does not smoke unless it is so faint you can't see it. It does seem to have a lot of blow-by but no smoke in blow-by.
My question is, could the head be cracked causing a large amount of blow-by and oil burning?
#2
05-07-2010, 07:33 PM
If the head itself was cracked, I would expect to find a mixing of fluids. These cars do have a valve guide problem though......
#3
05-08-2010, 06:37 AM
I plan to do a compression test and pressure testing this weekend and hopefully the problem is in the head but, if it needs a rebuild, the car is in good enough shape it would be worth it. Thanks for your help, more than likely I'll be back with more questions.
#5
05-20-2010, 05:09 AM
Update; My son didn't have time to bring me the car over the weekend and before the week was up it lost no. 4 cyl. 15lbs compression,OUCH! Removed head and found burnt exhuast valve. While head is being repaired I'm doing a inframe overhual.
#6
05-20-2010, 08:48 AM
It's been my experiance that over a period of time a lot of Saturn motors mysteriously used more oil than expected with no visible means to explain why. This comment referrs to many of the early motors. Never found a reason, never heard a logical explanation for it. Never saw smoke or excessive blow by. I suspect valve guides which usually show up as a puff of smoke right after being started and then never see smoke again. When cold. But it could be the affect of the Catalytic converter deals with that some how.
Don't care, oils cheap. Check it once a week and add as required, or check based on driving habits. I personally have never seen one blow up and know of fleets with 400,000 miles of abuse on them and still running.
I have a sneaky suspistion that a large amount of this is the factory recommended really light weight oil for the purpose of maximum fuel milage.
I live in the heat and drive 'm hard and use 20W50 and don't have a problem.
Don't care, oils cheap. Check it once a week and add as required, or check based on driving habits. I personally have never seen one blow up and know of fleets with 400,000 miles of abuse on them and still running.
I have a sneaky suspistion that a large amount of this is the factory recommended really light weight oil for the purpose of maximum fuel milage.
I live in the heat and drive 'm hard and use 20W50 and don't have a problem.
#9
05-20-2010, 11:33 PM
Nooooo .... not really. The engine was designed to operate with 5W30 or 10W40 over the life of the car, under normal temperatures. Since you live in the land where the bronze hinges of Hell were forged, it's understandable you'd want additional protection
#10
05-21-2010, 08:25 AM
Or under influence of the influence of the watch dogs of automotive design the EPA to obtain the maximum fuel mileage, even if it is but a smidgen to use the lightest possible motor oil over the life of the warrantee at which point the factory no longer cares what happens, the oil manufacturers historically make viscosity recommendations to select a viscosity that reflects usage or age. Such as this one from Castrol
SAE Viscosity Grade Motor Oil: 20W-50
Temperature Conditions: Above 20° F
Description: Provides maximum protection for high-performance, high-RPM racing engines. Excellent choice for high temperature and heavy loads such as driving in the desert or towing a trailer at high speeds for long periods of time.
usually supported by equivalent information in both the owners manual and/or factory service documentation. As these cars are in many cases both long in tooth and high in mileage and possibly may have actually been modified, oil formulation in recent years has changed for one reason or another to favor the use of roller lifters to the determent of flat tappet lifters. Thus requiring additives to forestall lifter and cam shaft wear reported frequently in various circles. The average 20-W-50 oil still carries this additive as far as I know at this writing as it is also a viable alternative in oil viscosity selection if your particular driving or temperature enviorments allow it.
A decision left up to the informed owner.
A practice I use regularly and coincides with the first oil change after purchase. Or rebuild depending on the circumstance.
And as you say, where I live, those conditions occur year around so it’s on my shelf and in all 7 of my cars in both dinosaur and synthetic formulations.
SAE Viscosity Grade Motor Oil: 20W-50
Temperature Conditions: Above 20° F
Description: Provides maximum protection for high-performance, high-RPM racing engines. Excellent choice for high temperature and heavy loads such as driving in the desert or towing a trailer at high speeds for long periods of time.
usually supported by equivalent information in both the owners manual and/or factory service documentation. As these cars are in many cases both long in tooth and high in mileage and possibly may have actually been modified, oil formulation in recent years has changed for one reason or another to favor the use of roller lifters to the determent of flat tappet lifters. Thus requiring additives to forestall lifter and cam shaft wear reported frequently in various circles. The average 20-W-50 oil still carries this additive as far as I know at this writing as it is also a viable alternative in oil viscosity selection if your particular driving or temperature enviorments allow it.
A decision left up to the informed owner.
A practice I use regularly and coincides with the first oil change after purchase. Or rebuild depending on the circumstance.
And as you say, where I live, those conditions occur year around so it’s on my shelf and in all 7 of my cars in both dinosaur and synthetic formulations.
