I have a 1997 Saturn SL2 with 108,000 that has just started experiencing electrical issues. Basically the car was working fine then would not start. The interior lights, locks and remote have no power and will not work.

The car dash lights come on but the car will not crank. The daytime running lights and the horn also works. I checked all fuses and they are good.

I pulled the fuel pump relay and plugged it back in and everything works. However after I turn the car off I hear a click and everything goes back to not working.

If I pull the relay and plug it back in the car will work again. I should also mention that I have to reset the keyless entry by holding the lock and unlock at the same time each time I pull the relay to get the car working.

If anyone could provide any direction on this issue it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Uhhhh start by replacing the relay?

 

I replaced the relay today and it did the same thing.

Any ideas?

 

Open the fuse box up and check for burnt and melted wires on the bottom side. It comes apart by removing the bolts.

 

I checked the whole board and the wires, everything is clean no burning or anything like that.


I checked the library and got the schematics and it looks like it is the going to be the PCM that is bad.



I hear something resetting when I plug the relay in and I am guessing that is the PCM resetting itself and maybe that is why it will let me restart the car until it has an error.



I am going to get a scan tool and check it out.

 

i would doubt the PCM itself is making any noise, as to the best of my knowledge it's a big complicated integrated circuit with no moving parts.

Have you checked the fuse sockets for corrosion?
Maybe the fuel relay removal/insertion is actually flexing the fuse panel and there is an intermittent fuse connection issue.....(???)

The fact that you hear a click when the relay is reinserted makes me wonder if the security module is kicking in when it shouldn't, thus disabling the starter. I don't remember if the fuel pump circuit is also interrupted -- someone else can hopefully speak to that.

However in that case I'd expect the horn to go off when the key was turned -- except-- if the security system disables the starter, then loses power, it wouldn't trigger the horn beep but maybe the starter stays disabled (???)

Throwin ideas........

 

Other than my 2007 Chrysler purchased new, I don't own a car with a security system installed in it. And for the most part, those I did were both aftermarket and troublesome so I disconnected them.
Which leads to this question. Can the security system be disabled?

 

I really appreciate all the responses on this issue.
I have not had a chance to grab the code reader but I did find a service bulletin that lists the symptoms I am experiencing and it basically is saying that the harness going into the driver’s door can chafe and come into contact with the door hinge and this causes a ground to short.
The service bulletin is no 99-T-43.

 

I tried to read the code and there was not one. I also determined that the noise that I am hearing is the radio.

I am going to check the door wires and harness like the service bulletin says.

Regarding the alarm I would not have a problem disabling it but I have no idea how that would be done.

 

O.K., here goes, I have to type this out. This means I will make mistakes. Deal with it.
Starter Performance Tests
Starter dead Solenoid Does not Click
10 check IGN 3 Fuse. Check Red Wire Circuit between 30 amp IN 3 Fuse and Ignition Switch
2) On M/T models, check yellow wire circuit between ignition switch and clutch start switch. Check Purple Wire Circuit between clutch start switch and underhood junction block located in engine copartment on inner fender panel. Check Purple wire circuit btween underhood junction Block and Starte Solenoid.
3) On A/T models, check Yellow wire circuit between ignition switch and underhood junction block located in engine compartment, on inner fender panel. Check Purple wire circuit between underhood junction block and transaxle position switch. Check Purple wire circuit between transaxle position switch and starter solenoid.
4) on all models, check ignition switch, clutch stat switch, (m/t) Transaxle position switch (a/t), theft deterrent and starter/solenoid.

Now the biggie here is theft deterrent.
Of which I have no data on at all.
Every thing to be checked assumes that you have a meter. Know how to use it, what the readings mean and have a service manual to tell you what the names of these things are, what the reading should be and what to do about it if you do not get the right readings.

I spend many years in tech service support as a diagnostic trouble shooter.
The biggest problem with that type of work is the person doing it is not expected to be much of an electronic trouble shooter and isn't. However the diagnostic techniques require a certain amount of electronic knowledge and in general that did not exist.
Computor controlled thingies are complex as hell and have multiple things that can make them stop working.

By in large, an unskilled electronics repair person, whom is most of the people now driving these cars and trying to run them cheap, had no idea how to do any of these things even when reading the instructions.
The most common suggested repair is to replace the computor that runs it. Why? It is the least understood. it is also the most reliable.
But the thing does not work. So replace the least understood most expensive part. Replace it a couple of times. Why a couple? Why not? A solution that rarely fixed things but cost a LOT of money.

I hate to sound like a broken record.
Buy a book.
They are 25 bucks. Or so.
They have information in them. Read and use it.
I have no idea where these parts are. I have to look them up. That is why I have books.
I actually have 5 meters. One of the was about $450.00. It has one unique function that was important to have. The others are Harbor Frieght on sale for $2.00 meters. They work.
Does any one know anything about the Theft Deterrent system? I don't, at least in my Mitchels manuals and I don't feel like going out and checking anything else.
That could be where the problem is.
it could be a wire caught in the door jam.
It could be how you are holding your mouth.
It could be the computor that runs things.
I dunno.
I can only give you the information I have.
And so far this is it.